Pedestal Mounts

buck wild

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Very nice. Hadn't considered one on a pole.
More like fence post than poles :) but yeah you can do some really neat things and get a lot of bang into a small area.
 

buffybr

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I started to do pedestal mounts a few years ago as I ran out of wall space. I made all of my pedestals myself, and most are made from cherry wood and a few from oak and alder.
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I used the back skins from my Sables and Zebra for the panel inserts...
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archer36

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firehuntfish

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Very impressive trophies and mounts everyone!

I only have 2 floor pedestals right now.. I love them and would do more when I get a bigger house. I am a bit challenged for wall and floor space as it is..



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archer36

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How does such a large head get stabilized? Is there lots of weight in the pedestal? Is it fastened to the floor?
 

archer36

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Can anyone tell me how such large heads get balanced on these pedestals? Some look like they are attached to the wall and not the pedestal?
 

Beck

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All of my trophies are wall mounts, so I can't offer a whole lot of advice. I found some of these posts, and photos to be very helpful. I hope to see more. In particular, I have an eland, a red hartebeest, a wildebeest, a sable, and a gemsbuck on the way - any suggestions or photos would be quite welcome.
 

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How does such a large head get stabilized? Is there lots of weight in the pedestal? Is it fastened to the floor?
A rod is mounted through the top of the pedestal and a receptacle for it is in the base of the form. They are very stable.
 

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I also struggle with little ceiling syndrome so I do what I can on pedestals. I like the wild look of these burned out cedar stumps that have been sandblasted and preserved with either grey or natural stain based on the animal
 

J Mac 49

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The pedestal mount worked perfectly for my Stag. The other mount pretty much took the prime wall space...

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archer36

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Once again I ask, how are the mounts balanced/fastened/to the pedestal?
Thank you.
 

rigbymauser

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Mr. Red Leg.

I don`t think there is enough room in your book cabinet for the two books I mailed you...:LOL
A rod is mounted through the top of the pedestal and a receptacle for it is in the base of the form. They are very stable.
 

rinehart0050

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Once again I ask, how are the mounts balanced/fastened/to the pedestal?
Thank you.
The mounts are relatively light, even my giraffe- fiberglass forms. Each mount has a metal rod extending from the bottom with a corresponding mounting point in the pedestals.

As the pedestals are frequently made of hard woods, they are heavy and can easily balance the weight of the fiberglass mount.

For wall pedestals, they are hung just like a regular shoulder mount. Usually the mounting point is centered on the back of the wall pedestal to ensure everything balances nicely.

Hope that helps.
 

buffybr

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Once again I ask, how are the mounts balanced/fastened/to the pedestal?
Thank you.
My taxidermist uses two methods of attaching the mount to the pedestal: some forms have one or two 1/2" threaded rods coming out of the bottom of the form, and a hole (or holes) are drilled through the top on the pedestal and the threaded rod is secured with a bolt and flat washer.

The other method is that he secures a 1" I.D. square steel tube into the bottom of the form, then he attaches a section of 1" O.D. square steel that is welded to a section of threaded rod that is attached onto the top of the pedestal. The mount with the square steel tube then just slips over the square tube rod on the pedestal.

Pedestals are more stable on smooth, hard floors than they are on thick carpeted floors (which I have).

The mounts are usually attached toward the back of the pedestals so that you can use the maximum depth of the pedestal to support the animal. The pedestals that I made vary from a 15" base for most mounts to a 21" base for my Eland.

The pedestals that I made for both of my Sable mounts have 15" bases, however the second one that I made was a little tippy sideways, so I added a 3" extension around the base of that pedestal.
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archer36

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My taxidermist uses two methods of attaching the mount to the pedestal: some forms have one or two 1/2" threaded rods coming out of the bottom of the form, and a hole (or holes) are drilled through the top on the pedestal and the threaded rod is secured with a bolt and flat washer.

The other method is that he secures a 1" I.D. square steel tube into the bottom of the form, then he attaches a section of 1" O.D. square steel that is welded to a section of threaded rod that is attached onto the top of the pedestal. The mount with the square steel tube then just slips over the square tube rod on the pedestal.

Pedestals are more stable on smooth, hard floors than they are on thick carpeted floors (which I have).

The mounts are usually attached toward the back of the pedestals so that you can use the maximum depth of the pedestal to support the animal. The pedestals that I made vary from a 15" base for most mounts to a 21" base for my Eland.

The pedestals that I made for both of my Sable mounts have 15" bases, however the second one that I made was a little tippy sideways, so I added a 3" extension around the base of that pedestal.
View attachment 446841
Thank you for the detailed response. I'm sure my Taxidermist (who is my Cousin) is knowledgeable on these things but it doesn't hurt to get more input!
 
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