My scope mounting routine.

Altitude sickness

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I mounted a scope on my newly acquired Dakota 76 in .338 WM today. I’ll go thru my steps and maybe someone can give me an easier, better way to achieve a quality mount. Or perhaps someone can use some tips.

Without going to a Pic rail there are limited options for the Dakota 76 . Talley and Leupold. I bought Talley bases and rings.

My first step is to completely remove the oil from the bases, rings threads and bolts. Most manufacturers Torque specs are for dry components not oiled.

They are shipped with a protective film of oil. So I use brake cleaner to remove the oil from all surfaces. It also removes any remaining minuscule shavings left over.
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Unfortunately for most African style hunting rifles one piece mounts and Picatinny rails are verboten. So we use 2 piece mounts. Which are prone to alignment defects.

from Murphy rail manufacturing. https://www.murphyprecision.com/scope-bases/dakota-arms/
“Most modern rifle actions are machined to fairly close tolerances, but before the common use of CNC machining equipment, tolerances were much looser. In addition to any errors in the original machining, most rifle actions are polished afterward to remove any tooling marks. While this leaves a pleasing finish, most freehand grinding and buffing can lead to errors of several thousandths of an inch in critical areas. Without bedding, the only solution is to tighten the scope base screws enough to warp the scope base and rifle action sufficiently to make close contact. This warpage can lead to a host of accuracy robbing problems in both your rifle action, and scope.”

So after a thorough cleaning I install the bases and rings then check them with my slide alignment tool.


 
Most hunters do not go to the extremes as the extreme long range guys do. Benchrest and the 1000 yard to 2 mile guys must perform these mundane tasks.

Also the owners of expensive optics that want their scopes operational and defect free.

Unfortunately my slide alignment tool showed a slight bind from the Talley rings. If I was using a more robust scope tube like
Nightforce Atacr, S&B or Tangent Theta I would have called it good. But I was mounting a 1” tube Swarovski so needed more precise alignment to eliminate 100% of any bind or high spot contact points.



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So out come the dreaded lapping rings. I should move my earlier oil stripping step to after the alignment step. Because now I’m about to get a greasy gritty mess all over the items I just cleaned.



(Rings bolts partially removed) I was loosening and removing the bar then remembered to snap a pic before removing the bar.
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After lapping, everything had to go through an even more rigorous cleaning to ensure no grease or grit remains. Then try the slide alignment again. This time with a lite flick of the finger the sliding ring easily glides back and forth showing 100% alignment with zero bind. And the lapping also removes the high spots . Which left in would have been the only contact points between the rings and scope.

This puts uneven pressure on a tube and drastically reduces the holding power of the rings

If you look, you can see where the lapping compound removed the high spots giving perfect alignment and perfect contact.
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Next, I bring out the scope level kit and bore sighting tool. And now I have one happy scope sitting on a beautiful Dakota rifle. Waiting eagerly to be shot.
 
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It would be much easier to slap a high quality one piece base and rings on or a Pic rail.

Also to get 100% perfect bases and rings the price of those brands are double and triple the cost of Talley. And are not available in all rifle brands.
 

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