judge my ideal “guide rifle” go anywhere hunt anything rifle
Criticism wanted.
Well Ive decided to mess with a rifle that was designed and built in Alaska, likely for Alaskan bear guides…wondering if I’m wrong for doing so.
This was built by Mr Cambell certainly considered to be an early adopter of lightweight rifles.
With the Talley bases and peep this is a 6lb 14oz rifle.
I’ll be sending this to Weaver rifles to do the work. I wanted a reputable smith to do the work along the same lines as the smith that built it.
Currently the barrel is 23” with a 2” brake totaling 25”…I just can’t leave well enough alone and probably can’t be convinced that a shorter barrel isn’t better. They just fit. If this was 23” with the brake I’d likely leave it, but I’m also gaining a banded swivel.
I love this barrel contour, I probably will send it to Lilja to be duplicated, it’s the thinnest 416 I’ve seen or heard of. I’d Like the contour for a 275 rigby project in the future.
.620’’ ish is the new finish dia
.
pre-64 m70 base gun and this is what mtn rifles Inc deemed the “pro mountaineer” and from what I can find this was his highest grade lightweight “guide rifle” (guide rifle is at least what I consider it)
Planned changes
-Cut and thread barrel back to 20.5” with a thread cap to go along with the brake (which it doesn’t have now). The option to run the brake or no I think is necessary.
With the brake new length will = 22.5’’
-Install banded swivel (NECG) 2.5-3” forward of the stock tip
-Install NECG MASTERPIECE banded front sight with pin for bead swaps (that’s the sight it has now)…unsure if this sight will be salvageable but going to use the same sight, hood and all.
-Cerakote graphite black, barreled action, mag box, all metal
-Inlet and install a “euro” style rear swivel stud (Talley)
-Epoxy fill the front swivel stud
-fit red recoil pad
-texture and paint the stock brown, brown splatter (no webbing)
I’ve though long and hard about this and to me this juice js worth the squeeze
OR SHOULD I LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE?
This is how It is now. I don’t know what he used for a finish but I believe this is a 90’s built rifle and certainly finishes have come a long way. Cerakote seems appropriate. I don’t know if it’s nitrided or if it’s a matte blue or what…


















Criticism wanted.
Well Ive decided to mess with a rifle that was designed and built in Alaska, likely for Alaskan bear guides…wondering if I’m wrong for doing so.
This was built by Mr Cambell certainly considered to be an early adopter of lightweight rifles.
With the Talley bases and peep this is a 6lb 14oz rifle.
I’ll be sending this to Weaver rifles to do the work. I wanted a reputable smith to do the work along the same lines as the smith that built it.
Currently the barrel is 23” with a 2” brake totaling 25”…I just can’t leave well enough alone and probably can’t be convinced that a shorter barrel isn’t better. They just fit. If this was 23” with the brake I’d likely leave it, but I’m also gaining a banded swivel.
I love this barrel contour, I probably will send it to Lilja to be duplicated, it’s the thinnest 416 I’ve seen or heard of. I’d Like the contour for a 275 rigby project in the future.
.620’’ ish is the new finish dia
.
pre-64 m70 base gun and this is what mtn rifles Inc deemed the “pro mountaineer” and from what I can find this was his highest grade lightweight “guide rifle” (guide rifle is at least what I consider it)
Planned changes
-Cut and thread barrel back to 20.5” with a thread cap to go along with the brake (which it doesn’t have now). The option to run the brake or no I think is necessary.
With the brake new length will = 22.5’’
-Install banded swivel (NECG) 2.5-3” forward of the stock tip
-Install NECG MASTERPIECE banded front sight with pin for bead swaps (that’s the sight it has now)…unsure if this sight will be salvageable but going to use the same sight, hood and all.
-Cerakote graphite black, barreled action, mag box, all metal
-Inlet and install a “euro” style rear swivel stud (Talley)
-Epoxy fill the front swivel stud
-fit red recoil pad
-texture and paint the stock brown, brown splatter (no webbing)
I’ve though long and hard about this and to me this juice js worth the squeeze
OR SHOULD I LEAVE WELL ENOUGH ALONE?
This is how It is now. I don’t know what he used for a finish but I believe this is a 90’s built rifle and certainly finishes have come a long way. Cerakote seems appropriate. I don’t know if it’s nitrided or if it’s a matte blue or what…


















wasn’t the WR dall sheep shot with a 404J?

