Large Ring Mauser sporter price

19_A_CPT

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Had the chance to buy a Mauser Large Ring sporter rifle today. Smooth commercial barrel with good grooves but needed bluing, stupid chopped down original stock and sporting a Weaver German post style reticle scope. All matching numbers (4 digit). What would this rifle run in your neck of the woods. Probably should have bought it but the 7.92 isn't my favorite round.
 
I look at those kinds of rifle for their potential, not how they’re currently configured. Very few sporters that I see for reasonable prices are acceptable. They might function just fine, but even a stock swap drastically improves their aesthetics and moderately improves their value. I do like the post reticle, so I’d put a few more dollars in the pile if everything else was workable. A browse through gunbroker should give you an idea what they go for. Any idea which model action?
 
SW MN here

Those run from $250- $450 here with the usual provisos.
 
As a point of reference, I recently picked up this 1940 Sauer & Sohn 8mm Mauser that had been rudimentarally sporterized (sans the scope) for $199 via online purchase from a Cabelas store in Georgia and had it shipped to my local store in Allen, Texas. After a good cleaning and mounting the scope, it seems to be a decent shooter. The mechanicals are very sound, and the wood is decent enough for my needs; but i wouldn't give much more than that price for a rifle like this (maybe another 50 bucks or so).

20251006_093126.jpg
 
prices on the OP gun could be anything from $199 to $1000 honestly.. there are a lot of unknown variables..

which LR Mauser is it? German factory with pre-war serial numbers? Or a VZ24? or something made during peak war years (likely much lower quality steel and much lower quality fit/finish).. Chilean/Brazilian/Argentine? etc..etc..

how much work other than the cutting down of the stock has been done already? Since its sporting a scope, Im assuming the bolt handle has been reforged or replaced. Do you know which technique was used?

Does it still have the original mauser flag safety? Or has that been replaced? If its got a slide safety of any type its likely also got a different trigger in it than the original .mil trigger.. if so, who made the trigger? if no slide safety, does it have a 2 position or a 3 position wing safety? Or maybe a "45" safety (flips up and down at a 45 degree angle beneath the scope)..

Since its 7.92 caliber Im assuming its still wearing the original military barrel?

If the only work that has been done to it is the stock reshaped and it got drilled and tapped for scope mounts, and its not a particularly great action to start with (during the war german build, etc) its most likely a $200-$250 gun around here... if anything else has been done to it, or it happens to be a particularly great action (a mid 30's VZ24 for example) it could bump the value anywhere from an additional $50 to an additional $500+ IMO.. it really just depends..
 
i bought a few 8mm rifles made in sweden with commercial 98 type actions with adjustable trigger and D&T from simpsons, i believe they were 450-550 usd at that time. i kept one to have it rebored-chambered in 35 whelen, but it shoots so well i have left in in 8mm, only adding a hogue stock.
 
prices on the OP gun could be anything from $199 to $1000 honestly.. there are a lot of unknown variables..

which LR Mauser is it? German factory with pre-war serial numbers? Or a VZ24? or something made during peak war years (likely much lower quality steel and much lower quality fit/finish).. Chilean/Brazilian/Argentine? etc..etc..

how much work other than the cutting down of the stock has been done already? Since its sporting a scope, Im assuming the bolt handle has been reforged or replaced. Do you know which technique was used?

Does it still have the original mauser flag safety? Or has that been replaced? If its got a slide safety of any type its likely also got a different trigger in it than the original .mil trigger.. if so, who made the trigger? if no slide safety, does it have a 2 position or a 3 position wing safety? Or maybe a "45" safety (flips up and down at a 45 degree angle beneath the scope)..

Since its 7.92 caliber Im assuming its still wearing the original military barrel?

If the only work that has been done to it is the stock reshaped and it got drilled and tapped for scope mounts, and its not a particularly great action to start with (during the war german build, etc) its most likely a $200-$250 gun around here... if anything else has been done to it, or it happens to be a particularly great action (a mid 30's VZ24 for example) it could bump the value anywhere from an additional $50 to an additional $500+ IMO.. it really just depends..
My thoughts exactly, and I am a sucker for a good sportered 98!
 
Hi,

To me, a military Mauser (excluding the late war time made) with the original barrel, any cartridge, in good condition, and their original stock, chopped or not, is a MUCH BETTER shooting-hunting rifle than many sporting ones of the same era. And, specially, than many more "modern" ones!!!!
I said BETTER in function and performance as well.
It can be refinished to the owner taste and will last for many family generations to come!!!
 
@cash_tx - nice score on that rifle

I love the vintage ammo packets (y)

A bubba sporter '98, with a perfectly good action, can be had for a little as AU$150 here if you shop around a bit and are in the right place at the right time.

I saw one recently for that price that was a 1915 DWM, with all matching numbers.

@mdwest - I do like those 45° safeties - like the one Recknagel / NECG offer.

https://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/proddetail.php?prod=8239
 
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Funny side note about the Bubba Mauser that I posted earlier - it smells like charred wood from a campfire. I don't know if it survived a house fire or something like that, and I can't find any damage; but it has the distinct odor of burnt wood (even after a good cleaning and a Ballistol wipe-down).

PS - those ammo boxes are 170 grain soft point reloads of my late father's from 1968, and they still shoot great.
 
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two 98 mausers that i had, but have since sold them. first a 8mm and the second a 35 whelen. both were very good shooters.
 

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@mdwest - I do like those 45° safeties - like the one Recknagel / NECG offer.

https://www.newenglandcustomgun.com/proddetail.php?prod=8239
I like them as well.. Ive built a couple of rifles with them when I didnt want to go to the trouble of the additional machining and cost of putting in a 3 position Win 70 style safety or didnt go with one of the timney triggers that has the integrated slide safety..

I typically go with the Timney/Beuhler version that puts the flag on the right side of the action though (installs and works exactly the same.. just has the flag on the other side)..

 
I like them as well.. Ive built a couple of rifles with them when I didnt want to go to the trouble of the additional machining and cost of putting in a 3 position Win 70 style safety.
I typically go with the Timney/Beuhler version that puts the flag on the right side of the action though (installs and works exactly the same.. just has the flag on the other side)..

Hi Tintin,

This is, to me, the correct set up for a right handed in atwo position flag Mauser safety. Like the FN ones!

I'm with you Dave and Coldo,

I've used the Timney/Beuhler 'low swing' as well - but have had the screw work loose - fixed with Loctite, but for me the simplicity, durability, aesthetics and ergonomics of the 45° design prevail.

Which brings me back on topic, a mate and I recently went 'halves' in a rough old backyard / bubba '98 that we happened upon in a LGS for the princely sum of AU$100 total. :D

I scavenged the iron sights, barrel sling eye, lever release bottom metal, bolt (including 45° flag safety) and small parts for the spares box.

He got the bare 7x57 barrel, weaver bases and the half decent, 'almost' Mauser Type B style stock.

Not bad for $50 South Pacific Paseos each.
 
Rifle has a really blonde wood stock with the blood groove. Bishop buttpad. It's a hideous looking stock
4 digit serial and it's says 7.92mm in cursive on the barrel or maybe the side of the receiver.
Weaver scope with the post reticle is the next part of it.
Barrel seems to be a commercial/rebarrel as it's not the military step barrel. Definitely needs bluing
Bolt looked to be chrome /polished but cycled smooth
Original safety iirc.

Could be bought for $250 otd
 
I’d probably take my chances at $250… the action alone is worth $350 if it’s in decent shape… you could likely sell just the barreled action here for $250 and get your money back if you didn’t like it and then throw the stock, scope, etc in the trash…

Hard to lose at $250…

That said, to turn it into something decent you’re looking at dropping probably $250 on an ok stock, $100 on a decent trigger, and another $50 on a suitable safety… so $650 all in…

For $650 you could also pick up a slightly used rem 700, begara, and a handful of other more contemporary rifles and be done with it…

It really just depends on your tastes and preferences… I enjoy playing with the old mausers.. so I’d be all over it… but others might not have the same opinion..
 
SARCO sells the same left hand Mauser safety as NECG. About ten bucks less as I recall. Be careful with those 2-position wing safeties. I have seen several that come disengaged if the bolt is rattled. Even the Buhler model. My dad put a Dayton-Traister one on my Springfield and it was notorious for disengaging in the field. When I slung the rifle on my left shoulder the bolt handle would get caught in my coat pocket and safety disengaged ... unknown to me. A few time I discovered the bolt hanging open and cartridge missing. I now have QR rings and iron sights on both my 03A3 and 98 Mauser 404J. The wing style safety does not work without the scope ... or rather it becomes unsafe. The wing is left sticking up in the air unprotected by the scope and is VERY easily disengaged by clothing, brush, etc. The wing safeties are not nearly as "robust" to disengage as the old military 3-position flag safeties. Parkwest sells 3-position Model 70 style safeties for about $200 in the white (for a bit more they are available in blued or case hardened). I put one on my 98 Mauser and it was easy to install. Or rather it would have been had not the rifle's previous Bubba overheated the bolt when attaching an aftermarket bolt handle. It took a while to get things trued up. I switched to SARCO safety on my Springfield and found that it also rattled off safe. So I modified it. Cut off the retaining ear, then drilled and tapped a set screw down through the top of the bolt shroud. With safety in place I used a thin scribe point through screw hole to mark the shaft of safety. Then remove safety, mark the scribe mark with a daub of white paint, put the safety in drill press, turn it on, and cut a shallow groove in the shaft at the white mark using a file or cutting blade in Dremel tool. Make the groove just wide enough for the set screw. These wing safeties must be snuggly installed or they will rattle off safe. Myers also makes 3-position Ed Lapour (Winchester style) safeties for about the same price as Parwest. And he makes them for 03A3 and 1917 but considerably more $$$. The Winchester style is the best in my opinion. Easy to operate and absolutely safe no matter how the gun is used. My second choice would be the Timney DeLuxe sliding 2-position safety. I want the option of switching to iron sights. The disadvantage to Timney is it requires modifying the stock and changing the bolt shroud to something without safety (for purely cosmetic reasons). These shrouds without flags come up used from time to time for Mausers but I would have to make one for my Springfield. Guess I will just have to pucker my pooper and pay for one from Myers or carry the gun on empty chamber when scope is removed. It holds five in the box so not a big deal ... if I remember the chamber is empty! Last time in Africa I forgot. The previous objective gemsbuck bull suddenly appeared while we were stalking wildebeest. I took aim and heard the dreaded click. Still managed to load a round as he took off and shoot him in the neck. When hunting with others I invariably carry with no round in the chamber anyway (except dangerous game).
 

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