I've got wood!

mdwest

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:D

A fairly long story... but the short version is...

Through some trading and dealing I came into a couple of broken/cracked stocks from bespoke, high end guns (specifically purdy and boss shotguns) and a few more from unknown guns, but obviously highly figured walnut from a nice firearm..

I managed to mill one of the unknown origin stocks and one of the purdy's into a handful of small scales suitable for making knife handles recently.. I wasnt sure if I could capture the figuring well on such small pieces of wood.. but I think most of the scales are going to actually work out really well..

Coincidentally, I've been working on a couple of knives for friends / fellow AH members and thought they'd make great guinea pigs for the using the pretty walnut..

I have said it several times before, and will say it again.. I am a mere journeyman of a knife maker.. a hobbyist on my best day.. FAR from a master blade smith of any kind.. but.. I do enjoy the hobby... and especially enjoy being able to make stuff for friends that I know will put the products made to good use..

The top blade is my take on the old timer "sharpfinger" profile.. the blade is slightly more upswept than the old timer, slightly shorter, and I HATE where the old timer version puts the lanyard hole, so thats in a different place.. Its got black G10 pins, ebony liners, and the walnut is from the purdy mentioned above.. Ive found it to be a good small to medium game skinner/caping knife (I carry one very similar, except mine has G10 handles..).. As soon as the sheath is done I'll be shipping it off to @AZDAVE

The bottom blade is a spearpoint design that Ive made quite a few of.. I consider it a good "general purpose" type blade.. I keep a similar knife (with G10 handles) in my "camping" pack for general camp use... its got buffalo horn bolsters, black G10 liners, mosaic pins, and walnut from unknown origin gunstock for handles.. The sheath should be done for this one in a couple of days.. then I'll meet @cash_tx for lunch somewhere locally and do a handoff in person..


1675884098777.png



Next up I think is a drop point hunter for myself... I made a "user" grade one last year that I hunted with quite a bit.. I think I'll take a couple of the scales I cut out from the purdy, fancy things up with some bone liners and some ornate pins.. put a mirror polish on it.. and try to make a "presentation" blade to keep as an heirloom type item to give to a kid one day..

super excited at how well the stocks have milled out and the potential for what I might be able to do with them and give the walnut another life and use in hunting :)
 
Last edited:
Dave, I can be a guinea pig! look nice.
 
I actually did an 8" kukri about a year ago.. it looked pretty.. but it functioned for shit.. I didnt get the blade geometry even close to correct...

I might have to give a kukri another try soon!

I also suck at hatchets/axes.. I have tried to make a proper hatchet 4 times at this point.. the last couple looked nice enough.. but were completely useless as an actual tool lol..
 
Are you trying to make just an axe head like a Gränsfors Bruks #430 Scandinavian Forest Axe? Hanging one of these heads on a replacement from Gränsfors Bruks is still not the easiest thing to do. Let alone doing it from a piece of repurposed rifle stock.
1675888902271.png


Or more of an axe head with steel extending down into a handle?
1675889021338.png
 
Good looking knives, congrats !
 
Are you trying to make just an axe head like a Gränsfors Bruks #430 Scandinavian Forest Axe? Hanging one of these heads on a replacement from Gränsfors Bruks is still not the easiest thing to do. Let alone doing it from a piece of repurposed rifle stock.
View attachment 516183

Or more of an axe head with steel extending down into a handle?
View attachment 516185

definitely something along the lines of the latter.. essentially doing a build similar to a full tang knife where the steel extends the entire length of the handle and I attach slabs to the side for the bottom 6-8" of the handle for grip..

The handle part hasnt been an issue... its been the head.. either I grind too shallow and end up with something like a sharpened wedge that doesnt cut deeply enough... or.. I grind too deep and remove too much weight and the head doesnt drive deep enough when swung..

I'll figure it out eventually.. its been trial and error so far..

Im pretty sure I could improve the handle angles a bit and help with the swing as well..
 
@mdwest You are doing well buddy, keep it up!
 
definitely something along the lines of the latter.. essentially doing a build similar to a full tang knife where the steel extends the entire length of the handle and I attach slabs to the side for the bottom 6-8" of the handle for grip..

The handle part hasnt been an issue... its been the head.. either I grind too shallow and end up with something like a sharpened wedge that doesnt cut deeply enough... or.. I grind too deep and remove too much weight and the head doesnt drive deep enough when swung..

I'll figure it out eventually.. its been trial and error so far..

Im pretty sure I could improve the handle angles a bit and help with the swing as well..
The balance on one of those things is critical. I found this picture...
1675890292845.png


The other trick is to have the poll and blade hardened correctly. Most of the cheaper axes don't get this right. Best of luck with it.
 
Nice touch with the Jerusalem Cross. Sign me up for one if you make more !
 
Nice touch with the Jerusalem Cross. Sign me up for one if you make more !


All blades get the Jerusalem/Crusaders cross on them (has a personal meaning dating back to 2004).. I also own "Crusader Cutlery" (although there is nothing at the website, the business does no actual "business" (I dont sell knives), etc.. :)

You were already on the recipient list and just didnt know it lol (I'll shoot you a text and explain) :)
 
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The oldtimer is a great shape of a blade, very functional. Nice job, well done.
 
Looks like some very pretty grain in the walnut. Sometimes it is hard to get good handles from walnut unless the grain patterns are smaller as often the large patterns tend to dissapare when cut down to knife handle size. You have found the balance nicely.
 
I will admit I was a little nervous opening this thread with your headline, but your knifes look good, my hunting knife is an old timer but it has the drop point on it
 
:D

A fairly long story... but the short version is...

Through some trading and dealing I came into a couple of broken/cracked stocks from bespoke, high end guns (specifically purdy and boss shotguns) and a few more from unknown guns, but obviously highly figured walnut from a nice firearm..

I managed to mill one of the unknown origin stocks and one of the purdy's into a handful of small scales suitable for making knife handles recently.. I wasnt sure if I could capture the figuring well on such small pieces of wood.. but I think most of the scales are going to actually work out really well..

Coincidentally, I've been working on a couple of knives for friends / fellow AH members and thought they'd make great guinea pigs for the using the pretty walnut..

I have said it several times before, and will say it again.. I am a mere journeyman of a knife maker.. a hobbyist on my best day.. FAR from a master blade smith of any kind.. but.. I do enjoy the hobby... and especially enjoy being able to make stuff for friends that I know will put the products made to good use..

The top blade is my take on the old timer "sharpfinger" profile.. the blade is slightly more upswept than the old timer, slightly shorter, and I HATE where the old timer version puts the lanyard hole, so thats in a different place.. Its got black G10 pins, ebony liners, and the walnut is from the purdy mentioned above.. Ive found it to be a good small to medium game skinner/caping knife (I carry one very similar, except mine has G10 handles..).. As soon as the sheath is done I'll be shipping it off to @AZDAVE

The bottom blade is a spearpoint design that Ive made quite a few of.. I consider it a good "general purpose" type blade.. I keep a similar knife (with G10 handles) in my "camping" pack for general camp use... its got buffalo horn bolsters, black G10 liners, mosaic pins, and walnut from unknown origin gunstock for handles.. The sheath should be done for this one in a couple of days.. then I'll meet @cash_tx for lunch somewhere locally and do a handoff in person..


View attachment 516176


Next up I think is a drop point hunter for myself... I made a "user" grade one last year that I hunted with quite a bit.. I think I'll take a couple of the scales I cut out from the purdy, fancy things up with some bone liners and some ornate pins.. put a mirror polish on it.. and try to make a "presentation" blade to keep as an heirloom type item to give to a kid one day..

super excited at how well the stocks have milled out and the potential for what I might be able to do with them and give the walnut another life and use in hunting :)
Sad as it may sound, I didn't even bat an eye at the title, lol. Figured it was stock blanks or something, but this is just as good. That spear point design looks awsesome!
 

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