Is there a sweet spot in the performance/cost spectrum for safari-grade rifles

One Day...

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Red Loctite? Isn't that the level of once it's set, it's never coming apart? I'm quite hesitant to go that far, but total advocate of using the blue loctite. It holds but can be undone.
Actually Phil, both Blue (typically 242) and Red (typically 271) Loctite can be removed by applying heat. Red is just higher strength.

The best method to remove Red Loctite screws is to use a 100 W electric soldering iron and to apply its tip for several minutes to the top of the screws to warm them up to approximately 400 degrees F. It will be enough heat to melt the Loctite without ever risking to damage the heat treatment or discolor the action. It will take a few minutes to get to 400 F, so just be patient. A 200 W soldering iron will be more effective, but most household-use irons are 100 W or less...

As an FYI, please note that on stainless steel rifles/screws you need a specific Loctite. The standard Red (or Blue) does not work on so-called 'passive' metals such as stainless steel. You either need an activator agent or you need to use Loctite 263 which includes the activator. The nice thing is that 263 works just as well on stainless as on carbon steel.
 
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PHOENIX PHIL

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Actually Phil, both Blue and Red Loctite can be removed by applying heat. Red is just higher strength.

The best method to remove Red Loctite screws is to use a 100 W electric soldering iron and to apply its tip for several minutes to the top of the screws to warm them up to approximately 400 degrees F. It will be enough heat to melt the Loctite without ever risking to damage the heat treatment or discolor the action. It will take a few minutes to get to 400 F, so just be patient. A 200 W soldering iron will be more effective, but most household-use irons are 100 W or less...

As an FYI, please note that on stainless steel rifles/screws you need a specific Loctite. The standard Red does not work on so-called 'passive' metals such as stainless steel. You either need an activator agent or you need to use Loctite 263 which includes the activator. The nice thing is that 263 works just as well on stainless as on carbon steel.

Good info, but I think I’ll stick with the blue. Just need a little extra persuasion on the driver to get it to break.
 

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Good info, but I think I’ll stick with the blue. Just need a little extra persuasion on the driver to get it to break.
Yep. I went to red because the .340 Wby 250 gr full house load provided said extra persuasion without my consent :)
 

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