Thanks for the reply. I've pictured some of the proofs for interest. There is a small J.N. stamp in front of the wedge cage. I wonder if anyone knows anything about this stamp.
Per suggestion from a different forum, I used an old tapered plum bob with various grit papers (120 to 600) to bevel the muzzle. When I removed the barrel from the stock, I found that the wedge was years ago broken with half missing. (see pics) Not sure if this is a shooting issue or not.
http://www.buckstix.com/buckpics/8bore-proofs.jpg
View attachment 686580
I'm late to reading your OP. As a muzzleloader enthusiast here are my offerings of suggestions and comments.
Not sure if this is a shooting issue or not.
For an 8 bore, Yes.
Measure the wedge pin: at base, at tip, the thickness, and the length. You should be able to get a new wedge pin from:
Track of the Wolf
Log Cabin Muzzleloader/Muzzleloading Shop
Send me the measurements and I might have one on hand.
Your solder wedge pin repair may be alright for smaller diameter bores of 40 caliber and below. But for 45 caliber and above, especially using relatively comparable larger volume of 3F and 2F powders....be safe not sorry....purchase a replacement wedge pin.
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Question: Is the barrel "Swamped"
Swamped: acts like a choke. Can be near the muzzle or forward of the center of the barrel. Approximately 3 to 6 inches in length, along the interior of the bore.
All things considered:
1. If your barrel isn't "swamped" go to a .840 or .845 diameter ball using a .010 thick patch.
2. Not necessary to use a felt wad.....some do and some don't......unless shooting shot. Cut the felt wad in half and into thirds test and see which works best: no wad, with half wad, with one third wad.
3. The one patch, lower right looks ragged and burnt. The others look good. Shooting using a wad I am somewhat surprised at the amount of carbon on the patches.
4. As mentioned you might want to opt powder from 2F to 1.5F or 1F.
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Cleaning BP firearms is an art.
At the Range:
I generally use a "wet wipe" moist toilets and swab my long guns after every 5 shots.Followed by 2 or 3 dry patches, then run a patch....lightly, as in almost dry....with bore butter, followed by a dry patch, then "pop" a cap or a frizzen pan of powder to make sure the breech area is dry.
Using a pre lubed, modest amount of bore butter patches with round ball.
After range sessions: all I do is swab the barrel with "wet wipes" until the barrel is clean, usually 2 or 3 wet wipes that have been cut into thirds or fourths depending on caliber and rifle gun or smoothbore. The rifle guns get several strokes using a brass/bronze brush between 2 or 3 wet wipe patches. Then swab the bore with a moderate amount of bore butter on a patch and a light coat of bore butter on the exterior metal parts: barrel, lock, trigger and trigger guard.
Roughly I figure I spend about 20 minutes cleaning my long guns and Colonial Pistol. About 30 minutes cleaning my revolver but that's a whole different process.
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Nice 25 yard group.
Test your results with this load data at 50 and 75 yards. For 25 yards back the charge down to 100 grains and work up or down by 5 grain increments.
Good 50 yard group
Try your load data out to 100 yards.
