How do you seat primers ?

[Mark A Ouellette]

Mark,

what differences are you finding between the brands of brass for longevity of primer pocket measurements? That looks like a very handy gauge, going to pick one up. Thank you for that information.

Some primers are taller than others. I recall that Remington Large Rifle Magnum primers were taller than Federals.
Some manufactures lots of brass have shorter primer pockets than others. I had a pile of new Nosler brass that had shorter primer pockets.
Occasionally I find some batches of brass than the taller Remington primers fit the best.
For shorter pockets, I insert the Federal primers.

 

[Safari Dave]

I just use a primer pocket brush and the priming arm on my RCBS Rock Chucker.

I've had a few issues over the years with primers being too high.



I just deprime the cases and try to do a better job cleaning the pocket on the next run. This almost always works.



I didn't used to always completely resize brass.

This has proven to be a mistake for me, as I have a few different rifles that use the same cartridge.

 

[Miletic]

Been reloading for years always looking for a better way or a more accurate way to reload. Hearing a lot about primer pocket uniformers and primer tools. Saw the Hornady VersaPrime. Looks like a great tool. But I ask how important is a consistent primer depth? Is my RCBS hand primer been the cause of load development frustration? Or do a lot of you feel these tool are another way to waste your money?

Hi Rooster,
The depth of placement of the primer depends on the case. The depth is always the same with higher quality case. In the case of lower quality, the space where the cap is placed heats up during firing and changes its surface. With hunting cartridges, this depth is not important. In any case, it is important that the cap is placed as deep as possible, so that the flame from it does not spread over the unfilled space and thus lose its intensity. It is also very important that the space for the primer is well cleaned so that it can go all the way in unhindered. Of course, it goes without saying that the flame hole should be cleaned. If the problem is in the wide group of hits, I don't believe it's the depth of the capsule. That's what I think

 

[fourfive8]

As a matter of course I use an inside, flash hole deburring/uniforming tool for new brass. Then an end mill depth uniformer. I like to use a Sinclair hand priming tool and feel a light compression of the anvil at the bottom of the primer pocket when seating. The primer cup should sit between 4-6 thousandths below the level of the cartridge base once seated. From then on, clean fouling from the primer pocket after each firing using a tool for the purpose.

 

[Roosterlund]

As long as your consistent so will your results be.
I just use primer seater on rock chucker
Ive never seen any difference from a practical accuracy standpoint.
I do try to buy a whole case of primers at a time so there all the same lot. With all components there can be small lot
variations.
I find better scale/powder measure will have a bigger affect

How far are you shooting?

Usually just 100 yards. Once I find a load there not much change. I’m in the north east and hunting deer.

 

[Roosterlund]

Hi Rooster,
The depth of placement of the primer depends on the case. The depth is always the same with higher quality case. In the case of lower quality, the space where the cap is placed heats up during firing and changes its surface. With hunting cartridges, this depth is not important. In any case, it is important that the cap is placed as deep as possible, so that the flame from it does not spread over the unfilled space and thus lose its intensity. It is also very important that the space for the primer is well cleaned so that it can go all the way in unhindered. Of course, it goes without saying that the flame hole should be cleaned. If the problem is in the wide group of hits, I don't believe it's the depth of the capsule. That's what I think

This is how most of my reloading goes. Always clean pocket. And feel like I seat flush or below. Some reloader are dwelling on primer seating depth. Thanks for your input!!!

 

[Roosterlund]

As a matter of course I use an inside, flash hole deburring/uniforming tool for new brass. Then an end mill depth uniformer. I like to use a Sinclair hand priming tool and feel a light compression of the anvil at the bottom of the primer pocket when seating. The primer cup should sit between 4-6 thousandths below the level of the cartridge base once seated. From then on, clean fouling from the primer pocket after each firing using a tool for

As a matter of course I use an inside, flash hole deburring/uniforming tool for new brass. Then an end mill depth uniformer. I like to use a Sinclair hand priming tool and feel a light compression of the anvil at the bottom of the primer pocket when seating. The primer cup should sit between 4-6 thousandths below the level of the cartridge base once seated. From then on, clean fouling from the primer pocket after each firing using a tool for the purpose.

what is your end depths uniformed tool you use? Maybe I should add to arsenal.

 

[fourfive8]

I use a couple of different ones. One can be chucked in a drill and the other is turned by hand. Very simple tools. Available through various reloading supply outfits.

 

[kdenn]

Frankford Arsenal hand primer.

 

[deewayne2003]

I use a primer pocket uniforming tool that bevels the pocket rim.

For smaller bore stuff I use a hand prime tool, for big bore stuff I use a Lee Ram Prime.

 

[yamoon]

old model Lee, much better feel then the newer one.
Mike

 

[AJ Peacock]

For Rifle stuff I use a hand priming tool. I have one Lee setup for small and another for large primers. When I seat the primer, I seat it 90%, then rotate the cartridge 180degrees and seat it firmly. It is a habit I picked up years ago 'just in case something wasn't perfectly square' probably not needed, but sometimes my small case of OCD takes over.

AJ

 

[M70375!]

Primal Rights bench primer, adjustable depth , I love it .

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

Rcbs bench mounted tool and the rcbs rockchucker press depending on how many cases I am doing. I inspect the primer pockets as I go, cleaning if they need it.
Gumpy

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

@Roosterlund
I've used a Lee hand primer for years and never had an issue. Plenty of feel and easy to use.
It does come with a warning that you don't load the tray with 100 of a certain brand of primer due to the risk of possible detonation.
Tried using a primer seater on my press but a lot slower, takes time to set up and limited feel so I will stick with my Lee.
Bob

Been reloading for years always looking for a better way or a more accurate way to reload. Hearing a lot about primer pocket uniformers and primer tools. Saw the Hornady VersaPrime. Looks like a great tool. But I ask how important is a consistent primer depth? Is my RCBS hand primer been the cause of load development frustration? Or do a lot of you feel these tool are another way to waste your money?

N

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

@Roostelund

I will try this. Been working on a model 70 in .280 AI. Has a new hart barrel and trying to dial it in. Noticed how much more force it was taking to seat primers sence I’m only using Nosler brass. Thanks for info!!!

It has been my experience that different brands of primers are slightly different sizes and different brands of brass have different size primer pockets. These differences may be miniscule but do make a difference.
I have had cases that have been difficult to seat say federal primers but seat say Remington primers easier and vice versa.
The beauty of this is when brand a primer get a little loose after multiple firings I can use primer B and the firmness is restored thus extending case life.
This is only my observation.
Bob

 

[Goopy]

old model Lee, much better feel then the newer one.
Mike

I agree- the older model Lee has a more “perceptive” insert than the newer model. Of course, I’m old school so every primer is depth checked by finger tip, eye and straight gauge…

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

@Roostelund

I will try this. Been working on a model 70 in .280 AI. Has a new hart barrel and trying to dial it in. Noticed how much more force it was taking to seat primers sence I’m only using Nosler brass. Thanks for info!!!

It has been my experience that different brands of primers are slightly different sizes and different brands of brass have different size primer pockets. These differences may be miniscule but do make a difference.
I have had cases that have been difficult to seat say federal primers but seat say Remington primers easier and vice versa.
The beauty of this is when brand a primer get a little loose after multiple firings I can use primer B and the firmness is restored thus extending case life.
This is only my observation.
Bob

 

[Miletic]

I use the RCBS manual capsule filler.
I am satisfied with him. You should be trained to insert the capsule quickly.
It can happen that the metal piston catches the capsule halfway before it enters the channel that leads the capsule to the stool. Then there may be a problem. I think this happens with similar devices from other manufacturers

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

This is how most of my reloading goes. Always clean pocket. And feel like I seat flush or below. Some reloader are dwelling on primer seating depth. Thanks for your input!!!

@Roosterlund
As long as the primer is seated to the base of the primer pockets it should go bang. If not the primer has to be seated by the firing pin and may not go bang or hang fire.
Bob