Horn Treatment to Restore Luster

Anbessa Gedai

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I recognize that many taxidermists, particularly the self-made/self-taught professionals (you know who you are ) have developed/invented their own (secret) methods which enhance their work and set themselves apart from the run of the mill, so for those members of the forum that are professional taxidermists, please take no offense at this question, and rest assured I have no desire to go in to the taxidermy business! But being a hands-on guy, I’d like to tackle this myself.

Here’s my query . . addressed to anyone that has already gone down this road, and has good or bad experience to share:

I have a number of kudu horns that I would like to treat (see photos). The horns are clean but like most all horns, once they dry out . . . they have become somewhat ashen and lost that luster that you usually see when the animal is alive. I’d like to apply the right oil, solution, or product to improve that ashen appearance.

NOT looking for a result that makes them black, or excessively dark.

Looking for a finish that will restore some of the luster, maybe a very slightly glossy appearance, much like you see when glassing the animal on a sunny day. NOT high gloss, but not dull. Correcting, at least partially the ashen appearance (seen in the second photo below).

The treatment must cure totally dry, If not they become dust magnets and, in that case, I’d rather leave them un-treated.

I treated the third set from the bottom in the photo with clear mineral oil years ago, and you can see its appearance is different. NOT a good idea! . . . It remained tacky for years and is quite dull.

A taxidermist friend gave me his recipe of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and lacquer thinner and I tried it on a pair not shown. The result was a much darker horn with little or no sheen or luster.

I’ve heard of some taxidermists using “Mop & Glo” floor polish which leaves a very artificial high gloss finish and is definitely NOT the desired result.

I do see a “Horn Conditioner” product listed by a taxidermy supply house, but quite expensive for a small jar and I’d need several!

It’s a job that has to be done right the first time, as after applying there’s no removing it!

I’m not looking for “Hey why don’t you try this?” . . . but firsthand experience with whatever process worked well (or didn’t). Also, if it worked well for other horns besides kudu . . . impala, waterbuck, wildebeest, etc.

I’m thinking the replies will be of interest to quite a number of readers.

Many thanks, and for those readers from the USA, wishing you a solemn, but positive Memorial Day in remembering those that have fallen in defense of our freedoms.

KUDU HORNS 1.jpg


KUDU HORNS 2.jpg
 
There’s a very good thread on here on this topic, and I believe it was started by @johnnyblues, but I can’t seem to find it. He restores a set of sable horns.

Found it
 
I recommend @buck wild's method. It WORKS and they are not un-natural black or dark when done.

MB
 
I recommend @buck wild's method. It WORKS and they are not un-natural black or dark when done.

MB
There’s a very good thread on here on this topic, and I believe it was started by @johnnyblues, but I can’t seem to find it. He restores a set of sable horns.

Found it
My mistake it is @buck wild
 
I use Johnsons Paste Wax on horns and antlers. Unfortunately, after 70 years the company decided to stop making it. Minwax still makes their paste wax and I'll have to see how it works. Still have about half a can of Johnsons left. This is my first kudu from 2019. The horns dressed up nice. Too bad the taxidermist messed up the skull (painted white and nose piece from some other species welded on the skull with epoxy).
16852394241195160847941847321334.jpg

1685239474094772249142668740126.jpg

Below is my second kudu 2021. Same taxidermist. Worse mess. The horns were overcooked and painted black, holes drilled in the tips, all but two teeth from some alien species had roots sawed off and glued on willy nilly with huge gobs of epoxy. Paste wax didn't help these horns much. Black wildebeest was worse. Total writeoff of a gold medal trophy.
16852402537836133902110848828281.jpg

16852403763521797442841635568782.jpg

Paste wax nicely dressed up gemsbuck, blesbuck, waterbuck, hartbeest, and impala.
16852406666776974171075962541868.jpg

16852407463011958833480098680597.jpg

I am anxious to try some suggestions from this thread to salvage the second kudu and maybe the wildebeest.

Apply paste wax with a soft shoe brush. Leave it unbuffed for a flat look or buff it with soft rag or clean shoe brush to give the horns a bit of a sheen.
 
Last edited:
Orange Glow furniture polish squeeze pump sprayer. Spray on horns & brush in. Forget about it for a few days to allow it to penetrate. The lustre will finish to a satin finish like you see when glassing them live. Have done several methods & found I like this the best. Yes I'm a taxidermist.
 
some good suggestions above. wipe or blow the dust off and simply treat with furniture polish (Pledge or many available knock-offs; it's a solvent cleaner, the solvent evaporates and wax is left behind that protects the somewhat-permeable keratin horns. once treated, it's very simple to dust and re-treatment is not often necessary. Antlers are not at all horns. Horns are more fragile, hollow "hairs" and antlers are solid calcium/phosphorus. Apples and oranges. I have antlers from my ancestors (1800s that are still perfect today with 0 treatments.)
 
Orange Glow furniture polish squeeze pump sprayer. Spray on horns & brush in. Forget about it for a few days to allow it to penetrate. The lustre will finish to a satin finish like you see when glassing them live. Have done several methods & found I like this the best. Yes I'm a taxidermist.
Good to know. Johnsons has stopped making paste wax and we have been looking for alternative. Clients could brush paste wax to a luster or leave it as is for a flat satin appearance. Sounds like this stuff behaves the same when applied.
 
Good to know. Johnsons has stopped making paste wax and we have been looking for alternative. Clients could brush paste wax to a luster or leave it as is for a flat satin appearance. Sounds like this stuff behaves the same when applied.
The orangeglow is liquid so easier to apply & good penetration. Holds color well too
 

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