EAW mounts slipping

[RockSlinger404]

Hi Everyone,

I think I might have seen some pictures on the forum about this, however the closest I got was finding a thread about a 458 Lott eating into Warne rings/bases.

I have a 404 Jeff with EAW swing mounts and a S&B 1.1-4 Zenith scope. The scope is slipping in the front ring and causing the claw on the back ring to eat into the base. Has anyone seen this before and are there any tried and tested solutions? Some advice I received was to use contact adhesive on the front mount. The rings were tightened to 25 lbs/in with a Wheeler wrench.

Has anyone successfully restored the finish on a badly scratched scope? The best I could find was Birchwood Casey's Aluminum Black, I hope it can work miracles on this scope.

Any advice would be much appreciated!

 

[cajunchefray]

Hello RockSlinger 404,

I have read of using a thin layer of liquid gasket, like used on automotive applicants, BUT, I have not tried it.

I have used paper inserts, in the rings, as recommended buy Burris optics for a heavy scope in Burris rings that was slipping on a lightweight.375 H&H.
That works. Just cut from regular copy machine/ printer paper, carefully cut to the inside ring dimensions to form a paper gasket.

 

[WAB]

NECG uses an adhesive in the front ring only. Give them a call, I’m sure they will share it with you.

 

[IvW]

Stuff slipping in rings etc. means they are not tight.....for whatever reason...

 

[Woodcarver]

The instructions that came with my EAW rings specifically call for using epoxy to lock the scope to the ring. There are ribs in the rings to prevent it from leaking out; I suspect that is what scraped your scope tube. Use a slow set epoxy, not 5 minute type. Get everything lined up, tested for eye relief and level crosshairs, and use index marks.
Another option might (emphasis on might, I've not tested this yet) work, is the gel form of CA. It would allow time to properly position the scope before the cure. There are release agents that will soften CA if the scope needed to be replaced at some point.

 

[baxterb]

According to what I see that scope is almost 18oz as compared to a leupold 1.5-5 at 9.5 Oz. That thing wants to stay right where it is under recoil.

like others have said I’d get with NECG. They have to have a preferred solution.

 

[WAB]

The instructions that came with my EAW rings specifically call for using epoxy to lock the scope to the ring. There are ribs in the rings to prevent it from leaking out; I suspect that is what scraped your scope tube. Use a slow set epoxy, not 5 minute type. Get everything lined up, tested for eye relief and level crosshairs, and use index marks.
Another option might (emphasis on might, I've not tested this yet) work, is the gel form of CA. It would allow time to properly position the scope before the cure. There are release agents that will soften CA if the scope needed to be replaced at some point.

I think that any attempt to remove the scope in the future could result in damage if it is epoxied in. PLEASE call NECG before proceeding!

 

[WAB]

Stuff slipping in rings etc. means they are not tight.....for whatever reason...

These mounts are very different. They appear to be set up to take most if not all of the recoil on the front ring. They also appear to be designed to use an adhesive on the front ring only. I have literally mounted hundreds of scopes without issue, I had NECG do these ones for me.

 

[Woodcarver]

I think that any attempt to remove the scope in the future could result in damage if it is epoxied in. PLEASE call NECG before proceeding!

Yes, the adhesive is only used in the bottom of the front ring. Rereading, it is not clear what specific type of adhesive is recommended. So, I cannot find where I found it was epoxy; I do know it was in a set of instructions, but I can't find them now. I was reading everything I could find on these pivot mounts as they are new for me. Btw, so far, I have not seen the need to use any kind of adhesive on mine. They have not moved since I put them on.

This design specifically does not want the rings lapped either. And put on correctly, there is no need.
The rear ring is designed to move, allowing the effects of heat expansion to be relieved without distortion of the tube. The front ring is doing the lion's share against the recoil.

The instructions I found were from the manufacturers site, not in the box the rings came in. Actually not terrible, although obviously written as english as a second language. Relatively easy to follow for a rather different method of scope mounting (for an American). But very slick in operation. If I needed the bases mounted on a double, it would go to a smith. I might tackle the job if using this system on a bolt gun.

 

[WAB]

Yes, the adhesive is only used in the bottom of the front ring. Rereading, it is not clear what specific type of adhesive is recommended. So, I cannot find where I found it was epoxy; I do know it was in a set of instructions, but I can't find them now. I was reading everything I could find on these pivot mounts as they are new for me. Btw, so far, I have not seen the need to use any kind of adhesive on mine. They have not moved since I put them on.

This design specifically does not want the rings lapped either. And put on correctly, there is no need.
The rear ring is designed to move, allowing the effects of heat expansion to be relieved without distortion of the tube. The front ring is doing the lion's share against the recoil.

The instructions I found were from the manufacturers site, not in the box the rings came in. Actually not terrible, although obviously written as english as a second language. Relatively easy to follow for a rather different method of scope mounting (for an American). But very slick in operation. If I needed the bases mounted on a double, it would go to a smith. I might tackle the job if using this system on a bolt gun.

I tried it but it turned out that the front base needed to be re-radiused to match the receiver. Prior to doing so the base mounting screws were flexing the base when tightened and binding the ring extension, preventing it from pivoting. This quickly took it beyond my capability which meant a trip to NECG.

 

[Woodcarver]

I tried it but it turned out that the front base needed to be re-radiused to match the receiver. Prior to doing so the base mounting screws were flexing the base when tightened and binding the ring extension, preventing it from pivoting. This quickly took it beyond my capability which meant a trip to NECG.

At the end of the instructions, it recommends that the work be done by a smith, lol

 

[RockSlinger404]

Thanks everyone for the responses thus far.

I just spoke to the dealer who I bought the mounts from, he recommends blue locktite. Any opinions on using blue locktite on a scope?

 

[WAB]

Thanks everyone for the responses thus far.

I just spoke to the dealer who I bought the mounts from, he recommends blue locktite. Any opinions on using blue locktite on a scope?

Please call NECG. They use one of the Scotch products and I am sure they will share it with you. They do not use blue loctite. I think you are going to have a nasty surprise if you ever try and remove that scope with blue loctite on that much bearing surface on an aluminum tube.

 

[RockSlinger404]

Thank you, WAB. I definitely will do as soon as business hours start Eastern US time.

I’m skeptical about the blue locktite, that is why I asked here...

 

[RockSlinger404]

For future reference, I spoke to NECG. They use 3M Scotchkote electrical coating.

I have to compliment them, the gentleman on the line was really friendly and helpful!

 

[Deleted member 53080]

For future reference, I spoke to NECG. They use 3M Scotchkote electrical coating.

I have to compliment them, the gentleman on the line was really friendly and helpful!

+1. I don’t know how many people work there but if it was Mark Cromwell he is definitely very friendly, helpful and accommodating