Chainsaws and those who use them

[Daniel Cary]

Fun thread. Homeowner here, taking care of old oaks that give up the ghost or are blown down by storms, which happens to the big ones sometimes. I'm a Husky fan. My stable is a 55 running a 16-inch bar for limbing, a 257 with a 20-inch is my main saw, and a 288 running 32-inch bars with full skip chains (last picture, bucking a three-trunk oak that was 52-inch at the base).

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love Husqvarna's .. sound great! Thanks for sharing!

There's a guy who sells NIB 288xp's, .. fetch high dollars now.

 

[Daniel Cary]

With a sharp chain .. anything works!

.063 Semi-skip, Square Ground on a 28, unreal.

 

[Rifleman97]

Stihl's 880 was like a Harley ..

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You ever use the original? The O88? I used to have one of those with a 60" bar, they sound so good

 

[Daniel Cary]

You ever use the original? The O88? I used to have one of those with a 60" bar, they sound so good

That 880, was like a Harley. unreal. Thanks for asking, sharing.
.404 is big! but what a machine.

This, I hope finds ya well. You gotta see the water this tree holds.

 

[Daniel Cary]

You ever use the original? The O88? I used to have one of those with a 60" bar, they sound so good

 

[Daniel Cary]

The Weyerhaeuser "story". The 10-year-old son was kidnapped & held for ransom (eventually released) & became Chairman .. wild history.



Great documentary "The Redwood Saga" .. Christ walked the Earth when these were standing.

 

[rookhawk]

Max out your oiler, switch to Harvest King bar oil (stihl's premium bar oil actually doesn't come close to the Harvest King in Project Farm's testing, and is much cheaper anyways)

Great advice, I will follow your recommendation on my next bar oil reorder.

Something I didn't think about in my first message but am realizing now, when you sharpen your chain you are lowering the cutting edge of the tooth, and if your tooth gets too low relative to the raker, your cuts will be much finer/slower, and those finer dust particles will gum up your saw more and get your blade hotter. If you're not using it already, the stihl 2in1 file makes this a non issue as it files the raker at the same time if you use proper technique. I like to sharpen separately and then file my rakers a tad more aggressive than the 2in1 file does, since my saw is 72cc's and can handle it, but for an electric saw the 2in1 will get the perfect height.

I do have the 2n1 Stihl files for my chainsaw and polesaw. It makes it easier for an inept chainsaw guy like myself to use. I think it maintains the rakers at the same time is the teeth because there is a flat file and a round on each side?

PS: if you want to save money on chains, call Madsens and order over the phone. You can get stihl chain for roughly half the price of anywhere else through them. Pretty much every tree service I know orders through them, excellent service. 1-800-822-2808 is their order number. They don't want to have an internet order, and they ask you not to email them as they want to talk to their customers. Rare, right?

Another great recommendation. Thank you!

 

[rookhawk]

For those trying to follow along with my questions, this is my chainsaw for perspective. Its no giant, but it isn't the typical garden center gardener's saw either. It's a neat concept for particular use-cases like mine. If I were to do it all over, I would have bought the four battery charging bank instead of the single, and I would have spent the $800 for another pair of batteries. The one situation where I need more batteries is when we are erecting tree stands. One kid is weed whipping trails, one dad is using the chainsaw, another kid is using the pole chainsaw, another kid is using the rototiller to create false scrapes or to blend mineral licks into the soil.

STIHL MSA 300 C-O Battery Chainsaw (Tool Only) – Professional-Grade Power​

The STIHL MSA 300 C-O is the most powerful battery-powered chainsaw in the STIHL lineup, setting a new benchmark for performance in the professional battery category. AGZA Certified and engineered for demanding applications, this saw blends exceptional cutting power with advanced electronic management, user comfort, and rugged durability. Featuring a lightweight magnesium motor housing, rubberized soft-touch handle, and STIHL’s proven anti-vibration technology, the MSA 300 C-O is built for all-day performance without fatigue.

Note: This listing is for the tool only. Battery and charger are sold separately.

Key Features:​

• Electronic Operating System: Located near the handle, this interface allows operators to quickly view system status and monitor chainsaw performance.
• Low Oil Sensor: Alerts users when bar and chain oil is running low to ensure proper lubrication and extend component life.
• STIHL Quickstop® Chain Brake: Inertia-activated safety brake designed to stop the chain in fractions of a second during kickback events.
• IPX4 Weather-Resistant Rating: Designed and tested for splash-water protection, allowing reliable operation in challenging outdoor conditions.
• Ematic™ Lubrication System: Reduces oil consumption by delivering targeted lubrication to chain links, rivets, and guide bar rails.
• Brushless STIHL Electric Motor: Low-maintenance, efficient, and built for reduced vibration and noise.
• Magnesium Motor Housing: Combines strength and light weight for increased durability in professional environments.
• AGZA Certified: Meets low-emission standards from the American Green Zone Alliance.
• Captive Bar Nut: Prevents loss of hardware during chain adjustments or guide bar removal.
• Anti-Vibration System: Minimizes fatigue and enhances comfort during extended cutting sessions.
• Rubberized Soft-Touch Handle: Improves grip and operator comfort.
• Side-Access Chain Tensioner: Easier, more convenient chain adjustments using a bar wrench.
• Throttle Trigger Interlock: Safety feature requiring engagement before throttle activation.
• Lightweight Portability: Excellent maneuverability in demanding cutting tasks.

Specifications:​

• Power Source: Battery (AP System)
• Powerhead Weight: 9.9 lbs.
• Mechanical Power Output: 2.5 kW
• Electrical Power Input: 3 kW
• Weight (with AP 500 S): 14.1 lbs.
• Recommended Guide Bar Length: 16 in.-20 in.
• OILOMATIC® Chain: .325 RS3
• Chain Oil Capacity: 10.5 oz.
• Battery System: AP Series (AP 300 S, AP 500 S)
• Run Time (with AP 500 S): Up to 44 min.
• Charger: AL Series AL 301, AL 501
• Voltage: 36 volt
• Intended Use: Professional

 

[Rifleman97]

I do have the 2n1 Stihl files for my chainsaw and polesaw. It makes it easier for an inept chainsaw guy like myself to use. I think it maintains the rakers at the same time is the teeth because there is a flat file and a round on each side?

That’s correct, the 2in1 uses the flat file to get the raker at a height proportional to the height of where the cutter file is filing. As long as you hold it pretty level the raker height will be filed plenty accurate enough for almost anyone. To improve upon it’s sharpness and depth results takes significantly more time with depth gauges or learning how to square file, or a lot of money and time with a chainsaw grinder and learning how to shape your grinding stone to get a square file. I square file my 32” bar chains as I don’t use them as often and when I do, I really appreciate the faster cutting through the big trees, but for most use the 2in1 or a simple round file and raker gauge are more than good enough.

 

[DaddyFlip]

I run the PFERD, which is the maker of the 2in1. I also have West Coast Saw depth plates to check and file rakers that need more attention, especially on the full skip where the 2in1 is less handy (but I still use it on that). They have them for 325 and 3/8 safety chains also. WCS Depth Plate I've not messed with square filing; I'm an enthusiast, but still an amateur.

 

[DaddyFlip]

love Husqvarna's .. sound great! Thanks for sharing!

There's a guy who sells NIB 288xp's, .. fetch high dollars now.

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I know, from Brazil or somewhere in SA IIRC. I thought about getting one a couple years ago because I love my 288 so much, but decided if I got another saw it would be a new 572 or maybe even a 500i. The newer technology is really nice.

 

[Miletic]

Preparation for forest. Old school (no

batteries)

 

[HankBuck]

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@Daniel Cary - WOW, now that’s a REAL MAN”s Chainsaw….I couldn’t handle that one —— but ENVY those that can (makes my Stihl 362 & 261 look Iike Kindergarten toys !!

 

[ZG47]

A dull chain will clog the saw faster…dust mixes with the oil rather than throwing shavings.

Not familiar with what chain they put on those but I bet it’s an anti-vibe, low kick back which also make little small chips and more dust.

Perhaps go by a saw shop and see if they can get you a simi skip or full skit if it’ll pull one. I’m just not that familiar with electric.

Also check the oil port on the bar isn’t clogged and it’s flowing to the rail

I hate those low kick back chains. My Husky came with one and it was hopeless. I might still have it because I only use the short bar for site cleanup.

 

[fourfive8]

Bar/chain oil requirements. Correct viscosity across wide temperature range. Cohesion for intended function (but that is a double edged sword because the properties that make oil sticky enough also speed up clog issues under the cover. Lubricity.

But to say one type or brand is superior across the board seems an overstatement. Too many variables, at least for the types of wood I cut and conditions I cut in to pin down one superior type or brand. Hot weather, cold weather, wet weather, dry weather, live wet wood, dead dry wood, dirty wood, hardwood, softwood, fibrous wood, fibrous bark, sap/pitch content … so on and so forth.

In the past and a pinch, I’ve made my own. It seemed to work as well as any. I didn’t pursue fine tuning the mix ratios but for an expedient substitute when bar/chain oil of any kind was not available and work couldn’t wait, this worked well. Regular motor oil (any common viscosity) mixed with STP oil treatment. IIRC about a 3:1 or 4:1 oil to STP ratio.

 

[DaddyFlip]

Bar/chain oil requirements. Correct viscosity across wide temperature range. Cohesion for intended function (but that is a double edged sword because the properties that make oil sticky enough also speed up clog issues under the cover. Lubricity.

But to say one type or brand is superior across the board seems an overstatement. Too many variables, at least for the types of wood I cut and conditions I cut in to pin down one superior type or brand. Hot weather, cold weather, wet weather, dry weather, live wet wood, dead dry wood, dirty wood, hardwood, softwood, fibrous wood, fibrous bark, sap/pitch content … so on and so forth.

In the past and a pinch, I’ve made my own. It seemed to work as well as any. I didn’t pursue fine tuning the mix ratios but for an expedient substitute when bar/chain oil of any kind was not available and work couldn’t wait, this worked well. Regular motor oil (any common viscosity) mixed with STP oil treatment. IIRC about a 3:1 or 4:1 oil to STP ratio.

For me, what flows the best works the best. I don't want sticky; I want oil flowing out the hole and I'm not concerned with conserving oil. I run oilers wide open. Cutting 95% oak and elm around here. Have some pine but don't cut very often.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I run the cheap bar oil, because it’s cheap. Engine oil in a pinch but it doesn’t work as well, slinging off too much.
When it’s pretty cold I will cut the bar oil with diesel for better flow.

 

[Boyd Brooks]

I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for. I only use Husqvarna or Stihl, two stroke and bar oil. I find the Stihl medium bar oil works for me. I don’t cut in the winter because I’m in AZ, but cut most of my stuff early when I get back to Ontario, before the bugs. I do storm clean up in summer but the few trees are not enough to need summer bar oil.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

The cost of Stihl or Echo bar oil at my farm store is about 22 to 26 dollars, the harvest king is 7.99. A chain for my saw cost $25 and a bar is $60.
With the $14 savings on bar oil I can purchase a brand new chain every two gallons of oil I use or a bar every 4 gallons.
I can’t see the name brand oil making bars and chains last enough longer over the harvest king to ever pay me back on the high cost of the oil.
Shoot, the Shell rotella 15w40 I dump in my pickup and tractors only cost $16 per gallon, and it has a lot tougher job than bar oil does.
The only thing name brand bar oil is, expensive.

 

[Rifleman97]

I’m a firm believer in you get what you pay for. I only use Husqvarna or Stihl, two stroke and bar oil. I find the Stihl medium bar oil works for me. I don’t cut in the winter because I’m in AZ, but cut most of my stuff early when I get back to Ontario, before the bugs. I do storm clean up in summer but the few trees are not enough to need summer bar oil.

Sometimes you spend more for a name and not a product