Broad Head for plains game

rookhawk

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@MarkCZ did you research Dr. Ashby’s analysis on what makes a deep penetrating arrow? There is a reason why most archers do not use muzzy, slick trick, montec, helix, exodus, or mechanicals on larger game in Africa. What works great on white tails is not the best for Africa or white tails!

what do Magnus stingers for $35 a pack and $250 per point dangerous game broadheads have in common? Two blades, no bleeders, cut on contact, tanto tip.

True flying points is key, penetration is essential or it is a big waste of time.
Research Ashby’s study of broadheads so you understand the science of what works, why, and what is deficient in many recommendations.
 

MarkCZ

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@MarkCZ did you research Dr. Ashby’s analysis on what makes a deep penetrating arrow? There is a reason why most archers do not use muzzy, slick trick, montec, helix, exodus, or mechanicals on larger game in Africa. What works great on white tails is not the best for Africa or white tails!

what do Magnus stingers for $35 a pack and $250 per point dangerous game broadheads have in common? Two blades, no bleeders, cut on contact, tanto tip.

True flying points is key, penetration is essential or it is a big waste of time.
Research Ashby’s study of broadheads so you understand the science of what works, why, and what is deficient in many recommendations.
Ok now I understand what I need, thank you. I have one more question. I will upgrade my bow now. I am looking at PSE Stinger. I notice this is a single cam. What is the advantage, difference between a single cam and a double cam.
MarkCZ
 

archer36

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Hi @MarkCZ ,

We recommend that our hunters choose any number of non-expandable broadhead styles that are heavy-duty and compact, that fly well from your set-up. Not to endorse any particular brand, but broadhead designs like SlickTrick, Muzzy Trocar, G5 Sstriker, and Wac'em are all proven performers on African plainsgame... If you prefer 2-blade designs, I would recommend designs like Magnus, VPA, Helix, and the Grizzly Stiks... Make sure to select designs with all steel ferrules bodies, and at least .035 steel blade thickness.

Please keep in mind that any broadhead you choose is only as good as the entire arrow build behind it. Considering that you are shooting 55 lbs., I would also check your total arrow weight and try and shoot an arrow that is at least 500 grains with 18% or greater foc. Lower draw weights require a heavier arrow and more foc to get the amount of penetration you will need to be successful with most African plainsgame. We also do not recommend using any expandable broadhead designs especially shooting 55 lbs. or less. All other issues with expandables aside, you simply will not get enough penetration with those designs. Good luck and have a great hunt!
You could not have gotten better advice. I have a Safari booked with Limcroma this September. I hope all is well with the Pandemic and I can still go.
 

archer36

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It's just undeniable because it's physics.
A two blade broadhead will penetrate more than a 3 blade and a three blade will out penetrate a 4 blade.
A COC head will out penetrate a Chisel Tip.
A less severe blade angle will penetrate more than a severe angle.
If you are trying to achieve only ONE objective, penetration, then use the three factors above. A two blade, COC point, and lesser angled broadhead.
Me? I am using a Crossbow that shoots 150 lbs of KE. I have more choices.
I am bringing these.
https://www.toothofthearrowbroadhea...de-1-3-16-inch-diameter?variant=7832604049463
 

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archer36

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Ok now I understand what I need, thank you. I have one more question. I will upgrade my bow now. I am looking at PSE Stinger. I notice this is a single cam. What is the advantage, difference between a single cam and a double cam.
MarkCZ
Not much other than cam synchronization. With one cam there is nothing to "time".
 

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Ok now I understand what I need, thank you. I have one more question. I will upgrade my bow now. I am looking at PSE Stinger. I notice this is a single cam. What is the advantage, difference between a single cam and a double cam.
MarkCZ
I won't argue Asby's point that you can't have enough penetration. I will say a well tuned modern compound will give you it. A 60 pound bow now has more energy than a 45-50 pound bow 30+ years ago when I was new to the sport and there were a lot of pass-throughs with 3 or 4 bladed broadheads back then. Fred Bear used four bladed heads out of a 60 pound recurve in the 60s to drop kudu. I will say the two bladed heads in general will penetrate deeper but I will also say inch for inch penetration a 3 or 4-bladed heads cause more damage. So if I'm certain a shot will get through the entire body cavity I prefer multi bladed heads to take full advantage of that. The key is a well tuned bow and arrow set up with a properly placed shot.

If you are referring to the PSE Stinger Max RTS (Ready To Shoot) set, it is a good bow. 10 years ago it was probably considered amazing, but technology marches on. Single cam vs binary is just different technology accomplishing the same thing, tuning is just a little different.
 

archer36

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I won't argue Asby's point that you can't have enough penetration. I will say a well tuned modern compound will give you it. A 60 pound bow now has more energy than a 45-50 pound bow 30+ years ago when I was new to the sport and there were a lot of pass-throughs with 3 or 4 bladed broadheads back then. Fred Bear used four bladed heads out of a 60 pound recurve in the 60s to drop kudu. I will say the two bladed heads in general will penetrate deeper but I will also say inch for inch penetration a 3 or 4-bladed heads cause more damage. So if I'm certain a shot will get through the entire body cavity I prefer multi bladed heads to take full advantage of that. The key is a well tuned bow and arrow set up with a properly placed shot.

If you are referring to the PSE Stinger Max RTS (Ready To Shoot) set, it is a good bow. 10 years ago it was probably considered amazing, but technology marches on. Single cam vs binary is just different technology accomplishing the same thing, tuning is just a little different.
You actually can have "too much penetration" but it's not "bad". With my crossbow setup I can put a 3 blade, 2" diameter cut broadhead through a deer and it will still sink into the ground many inches after passing through.
A two inch diameter cut is very big. That being said, I use this not because it kills the game quicker, but to slow my arrow down. LOL.
I've killed deer with everything from a 1 1/8" 3 blade fixed head all the way up to large 3 and 4 blade mechanicals. The most important factor is shot placement, not size of head. This is my observations after killing around 60-70 deer with archery equipment.
 

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You actually can have "too much penetration" but it's not "bad". With my crossbow setup I can put a 3 blade, 2" diameter cut broadhead through a deer and it will still sink into the ground many inches after passing through.
A two inch diameter cut is very big. That being said, I use this not because it kills the game quicker, but to slow my arrow down. LOL.
I've killed deer with everything from a 1 1/8" 3 blade fixed head all the way up to large 3 and 4 blade mechanicals. The most important factor is shot placement, not size of head. This is my observations after killing around 60-70 deer with archery equipment.
I agree, shot placement is the most critical aspect. But assuming the exact same shot a Y or X shape wound causes more damage than an I shaped wound. Also makes for a larger entrance and exit wound, so easier to track.
 
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archer36

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I ageeeI agree, shot placement is the most critical aspect. But assuming the exact same shot a Y or X shape wound causes more damage than an I shaped wound. Also makes for a larger entrance and exit wound, so easier to track.
True but you have to have the KE to take advantage of it. A poor penetrating large cut may not leave as good a blood trail as a two blade that passes through. As I said, you have to evaluate your equipment and see what works.
 

firehuntfish

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Ok now I understand what I need, thank you. I have one more question. I will upgrade my bow now. I am looking at PSE Stinger. I notice this is a single cam. What is the advantage, difference between a single cam and a double cam.
MarkCZ
@MarkCZ ,

I would encourage you to give the single cam vs. double cam some serious consideration before buying your new bow..

For the most part, single cam designs have smoother, more comfortable draw cycles compared to duel cam designs. Single cams also tend to be more forgiving of small errors in form. And, as others have noted, a single cam unit does not have to be in sync with the other cam so a single cam design is usually more easy to tune and keep in tune.

The main purpose of the duel cam bow design was to use the psychics of the 2 cams to generate more speed than a single cam which it most certainly does. A nice by-product of the duel cam design is the ability to tune to near perfect flat nock travel which can translate into more accuracy. The main cons of the duel cam design are a less pleasant draw cycle and the ability to tune and maintain that tune after multiple shots. Many duel cam models have synchronization or "timing" marks that are indicated by where the string/cables cross the cam. With many duel cam bows, a bow press along with some bow tuning experience is necessary to make these adjustments. Without that experience, your next option would be to have a good bow shop nearby with experienced bow techs to perform these adjustments for you for you. This is a good option assuming you have a bow shop nearby and don't mind paying for the service.

In the last couple of years, a couple of the major bow manufacturers have come out with new technology that allows for cam tuning without the need for a bow press. You can adjust for cam lean as well as cam sync with simple allen wrench adjustments, so there is no need for regular trips to the bow shop to keep your bow in tune. However I still suggest having your new bow set-up by an experienced tech for the first time. I encourage you to watch him/her do it, and ask questions so you can learn for yourself... Learning how to tune your own bow is one of the more rewarding aspects of bowhunting. Good luck and have fun!
 

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I liked the look of the "Helix" so I bought some copies (they are expencive if they dont fly well) from ebay and they are bloody accurate almost arrow on top of arrow.
So now I need to find the cheapest place to buy the original Helix. just out of interest have any of you tried the Helix copies and what did you think?
MarkCZ
@MarkCZ,

My wife shoots Helix broadheads and has enjoyed tremendous performance with them for years. The two least expensive places we have found to purchase them are direct from Strickland Archery or Lancaster Archery Supply... They are expensive because they are well-made from an all-steel design. The blades can be re-sharpened for life as long as you don't lose them. Be careful of any of the knock-off brands. Just make sure they are well constructed with the same materials or the performance will suffer. In my opinion, it's not worth the anxiety of wounding or losing an animal to save a few bucks... (y)
 

Trent R

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Hey Mark, I too have been in the process of getting set up for bow hunting Africa next year. As mentioned before check out the Ashby reports and the 12 arrow penetration factors. Take the time to properly tune your arrows out of your compound as well. I landed on the Cutthroat Broadhead. Its a solid steel single bevel w/a lifetime warranty. Good luck with it all!
 

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I took the Strickland helix (175) to SA last year. It worked great. I harvested a sable and Cape buffalo. Once you find what setup works for you practice and have confidence in it.
 

MarkCZ

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Well gentlemen, I am so greatful for all your wise advise. I have made my decision and I will be getting a PSE Stinger bow up to 70lb. Easton Bloodline arrows with 260 spine (i think) The broadheads will be Magnus Stingers in 125 grain. I may stay with the Easton Gamegetter arrows 300 depending on how they fly from my set up. Any more advise would be appreciated.
many thanks, MarkCZ
 

rookhawk

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Well gentlemen, I am so greatful for all your wise advise. I have made my decision and I will be getting a PSE Stinger bow up to 70lb. Easton Bloodline arrows with 260 spine (i think) The broadheads will be Magnus Stingers in 125 grain. I may stay with the Easton Gamegetter arrows 300 depending on how they fly from my set up. Any more advise would be appreciated.
many thanks, MarkCZ
Hi Mark,

I use a very similar setup to you. My differences: I use the 100gr magnus stinger because it’s a tiny bit smaller for better penetration. 100gr broadhead makes things really simple. I prefer to put my weight increases in the inserts, rather than the broadhead. (Generally, lighter/smaller broadheads fly truer)

My arrows are .001” Easton Axis” 260 spine. Not saying mine are better than yours, but they are good.

my setup:

Axis 260 spine 31.5”
HIT insert
BAR ring
Magnus Stinger 100gr
Blaser Vanes
Easton x-nock

Total weight: 568gr

It’s a do all for deer, elk, bear, and most of the medium game of Africa.

one bizarre thing with my setup: at 30-40 yards on my best days I’m doing 3” and 4” groups respectively. I tried at 60 yards for the first time the other day and got 2”. I don’t have a 70 yard pin so I guessed with the level and got a 2.5”-3” group. Not sure if the arrow stabilizes and I’m in some sort of weird zone at 40 yards (bow is tuned) or if my eyes are bad (they are at 30-40) but the sight is clearer at 60 yards. (It is clearer)

test yourself and see how they fly!
 

Paolo Mauritania

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I suggest to have a look at some of the studies of Dr. Ashby at https://www.ashbybowhunting.org/ashby-reports to re-validate what Limcroma Safari chaps are preaching; there is one report with an interesting set of terminal performance comparison between a 55# bow and higher poundage set ups (in the 70#-80# range), in your case the complete arrow [system] is critical, so all the penetration enhancing factors listed in Dr. Ashby research need to be there (see file below); among them minimum mass between 620-650 grains, EFOC (19%<>30%), single blade-single bevel broad-heads, and perfectly tuned flight (there are more). A heavier arrow, among other benefit, makes more efficient utilization of your low poundage bow stored energy, and it makes it less noisy. Trajectory is not a major issue out to 30-35 yards.
 

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rookhawk

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I suggest to have a look at some of the studies of Dr. Ashby at https://www.ashbybowhunting.org/ashby-reports to re-validate what Limcroma Safari chaps are preaching; there is one report with an interesting set of terminal performance comparison between a 55# bow and higher poundage set ups (in the 70#-80# range), in your case the complete arrow [system] is critical, so all the penetration enhancing factors listed in Dr. Ashby research need to be there (see file below); among them minimum mass between 620-650 grains, EFOC (19%<>30%), single blade-single bevel broad-heads, and perfectly tuned flight (there are more). A heavier arrow, among other benefit, makes more efficient utilization of your low poundage bow stored energy, and it makes it less noisy. Trajectory is not a major issue out to 30-35 yards.
great points. The need for speed is a reasonable assumption because people have experienced game jumping the string. I can’t emphasize enough how useful heavy arrows with heavy FOC really is. If your bow becomes near silent, the speed is no longer a critical part of the equation. The only advantage of doing the opposite of Ashby is trajectory.
 

Paolo Mauritania

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Rookhawk,
I agree even though I'm not that good at long range shots, I posted a video in here on trajectory within the 30 yards I am allowing myself, eyes opening results.
 

Paolo Mauritania

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One clarification on the reason Dr. Ashby recommend single blade, single bevel broad heads (BH) with the bevel on the same side of the fletching rotation (right bevel - right fletching, and so on); single bevel BH rotate at impact and keep rotating as they breach the bone and the tissues. The rotational force is supported by the tissue increased resistance as the blade penetrate. When it comes the longer and slicker blades, he refers to Mechanical Advantage (MA), a BH with more than one blade, has a reduced MA (https://journalofmountainhunting.co...~:text=The mechanical advantage of an,by 1/2″).
 

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archer36

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Well let's put things into perspective here. Dr. Ashby's study was quite a few years ago. It does not invalidate his findings but our sport has changed greatly since then. Compound bows shoot well above their previous capabilities. Crossbows are another story. The new bows are generating 150 lbs of KE. This is a game changer. This allows the use of broadheads with more blades and wider cutting surfaces and still get amazing penetration and pass thru's. Now the strength of the blades is a major factor in performance. On deer sized game (up to 300 lbs) large diameter 3 and 4 blade mechanical broadheads are killing animals with great efficiency. A lot of African Plains game fits that description. Now larger animals, like Eland, would call for a strong fixed blade head for it's durability. So Dr. Ashby's science still holds true but a lot of factors have changed.
 
 

 

 

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