Bought a Sako Kodiak!!!!!

When you turned that scope 90°, did you not have problems with the adjustment ring hitting the scope base? I use low optilock rings on mine, and the VX3 scope can't be turned 90° because when you adjust the power the knob that sticks up on the adjustment ring hits the base and can't be turned the full range of motion.
What scope base and rings are you using?
That’s a really good point. With my 1.5-5 no issues, but you wouldn’t get much more. I vaguely remember the gunsmith pointing that out to me now. I can’t remember if they are Sako or Leupold, but they are low rings.
 
So you need to fit high rings that is not the best idea especially for a DG rifle and in some cases mount the scope 90 degrees turned(the way it was nor designed to be fitted to the rifle) in order to try and get it to work as it should? How do you use a scope with a German nr 4 reticle and make that work?

Strange the lengths manufacturers and owners will go to try and "fix" things....
It either works as it should or does not ...buy a different rifle....
 
Strange the lengths manufacturers and owners will go to try and "fix" things....
It either works as it should or does not ...buy a different rifle....
So I guess no one should be using a CZ. There is no reason not to “fix” your rifle to make it reliable every time.
 
At least a CZ can be fixed permanently by a competent gunsmith....if you buy an original ZKK 602 you never have any issues thats what I use....
Sako is a lost case in a DG rifle accept and move on....some wont.....
 
So I guess no one should be using a CZ. There is no reason not to “fix” your rifle to make it reliable every time.
How is fitting scope mounts that are too high for the scope or rotating it 90 degrees a reliable everytime solution?
 
How is fitting scope mounts that are too high for the scope or rotating it 90 degrees a reliable everytime solution?
Because I have low scope mounts and a duplex reticle that fits me perfectly
 
Not everybody uses same if you happy I quess that is fine but in my line I need 100% reliability everytime...
For that money gun should work....
 
Once the scope is turned, and as long as you use a standard duplex reticle, they are 100% reliable as far as I can tell on mine. However, I really hate having to do this to make the rifle reliable. If mine wasn't so nice handling, accurate and deadly, I'd sell it. Lol! Not to mention all the notches it has on it from hunting Australia and Africa.
 
Here's a group of rifles and not a Sako in the bunch :) but they all have the scopes turned 90' left. Top is Montana '99 450 Watts, next is a Winchester 70 375 HH, next is a Winchester 70 416 Rem and bottom is a BRNO ZKK 602 375 HH. Scopes are mounted for a best compromise, for me, between cheek weld, bolt clearance and port clearance. Getting the right side turret out of the way increases the port clearance while allowing lowest possible scope mount for cheek weld. Ejected cases don't hit the turret cover and the turrets in the rotated position don't contact any part of the two piece mounts. The cleared port allows for better, unfettered access for reloading the magazine. All scopes are mounted for adequate clearance between ocular bell and bolt handle operation. The scopes don't have "direction critical" reticles nor extra "show" knobs, so the rotation has no affect on the scope view or function. All combinations are 100% reliable. The same would hold true for the Sako models that eject empties at a slightly higher angle or really any action that might. The Sako is not the only type, design or brand that will sometimes do that if the scope is mounted low with a turret on the right side. Even some Winchester 70s will do it and I'll guarantee Remington 700s that have had a Sako or M16 style extractor added will do it.

DG lineup.JPG
 
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17 rounds out of a pistol. if you know your weapon, that is all that matters. If a sako takes care of a brown bear in the alders who cares???
 
I have one of these in .375H&H (now rechambered to .375 Weatherby magnum) and I really like it.
They're a solid well made little rifle and the weatherproof stainless and laminate means you don't have to be too precious with it.

I did need to sand down the points on the grip and checkering as I found it was just too sharp to be comfortable when lugging it around the hills with bare hands for extended periods of time, no doubt it is excellent with gloves on but where I live you just don't need them.
I also rounded and polished the little step-bits on trigger a bit to make it a bit smoother.

If I had any problem it would be the factory express sights, which are large and were not really designed for anything that's not big, cranky and up close, as I had initially intended on using the factory iron sights only on this rifle but they are just too big to be accurate at any practical distance on smaller game.
Also the factory rubber butt is pretty hard so I have a recoil pad for use off a bench (but recoil is a non-issue when out in the field)

Still a nice piece of kit though and certainly attracts interest at the range, just make sure you hold it properly or you will soon end up with skinned knuckles and bleeding fingers as I found out the hard way!

IMG_20210409_203615_2.jpg
 
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I took a Sako in 375 H&H (all stainless with synthetic stock) to Kodiak twice chasing brownies. It shot excellent with 300 Nosler Partitions. Unfortunately it didn’t find me a big enough brownie.
I think you’ll like it.

I read somewhere once the only way you'll ever get a 10' bear is not to shoot anything smaller. Good for you, good luck in the future. I took a 9' bear in 2011 on Upper Togiak Lake which I was very happy with. I had a great hunt. If I ever hunt brown bears again, it will be on Kodiak Island and if I don't see a 10' or larger bear, I'll come home with a lot of great pictures :)
 

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