Binoculars image stabilized or non?

[farmer_john]

Looking for everyones thoughts on image stabilization in binoculars for glassing for game both those for it and against it. And what are the pros and cons of each.
As well as yalls favorite binos.

 

[Olivier]

up to X10, no - beyond x10, yes, it makes sense.
My personal binoculars are Leica Geovid Pro 32 10x32 : lightweight, rangefinder with built-in ballistic calculator. They are expensive, but worth every penny!

 

[farmer_john]

up to X10, no - beyond x10, yes, it makes sense.
My personal binoculars are Leica Geovid Pro 32 10x32 : lightweight, rangefinder with built-in ballistic calculator. They are expensive, but worth every penny!

Why does it make sense over 10x and not under?

 

[Red Leg]

I have the 18x by Sig. For 10x and below image stabilization is not needed - above 10 physical (tripod) or electronic is a necessity. I use them for hunting whitetails from a blind. The typical target area on my place is around 250 yards. With stabilized optics at 18 power, I can very quickly age a deer at that range and know exactly what I am shooting. For instance, year before last I took a spindly eight pointer that with normal optics I would have judged a 4 1/2 and never shot. With the stabilized 18x he was clearly actually very old - teeth indicated 6 1/2 - 7 1/2.

However, I would not take them on most of my normal hunting in the Americas or Africa. There 10x seems about ideal and the range finding capability of my Leica's is essential. I am debating whether to take them to Europe this spring for judging roe deer.

 

[farmer_john]

I have the 18x by Sig. For 10x and below image stabilization is not needed - above 10 physical (tripod) or electronic is a necessity. I use them for hunting whitetails from a blind. The typical target area on my place is around 250 yards. With stabilized optics at 18 power, I can very quickly age a deer at that range and know exactly what I am shooting. For instance, year before last I took a spindly eight pointer that with normal optics I would have judged a 4 1/2 and never shot. With the stabilized 18x he was clearly actually very old - teeth indicated 6 1/2 - 7 1/2.

However, I would not take them on most of my normal hunting in the Americas or Africa. There 10x seems about ideal and the range finding capability of my Leica's is essential. I am debating whether to take them to Europe this spring for judging roe deer.

Is that because europe is stricter on what you can take/not? Or is it because the terraine nessesitates higher magnification?

And whats the benifit of using the binos over glassing with a riflescope.

And on a side note. Do you have any good links or reference materials on judging deer/game in general example looking at the teeth or other metrics

 

[Ray B]

I have a Bausch&Lomb Zephyr 8x30 made in 1949 that has served me well for over half a century. I see no reason to replace them, but I also use a Swarovski spotting scope that is tripod mounted so movement is not a problem.

 

[Nicaburns]

I wouldn’t trade my sig 16x42! Alpha glass is great at dusk/dawn but stabilization rules during the day for spotting movement at distance and glassing without a tripod!

 

[Scott CWO]

For me, one doesn’t replace the other. I have the Zeiss 20x60 and they are great for hunts where a vehicle, ATV or boat is handy or sitting in a blind. I don’t carry them on long walks. They are great for judging game at fairly long distances and they help me decide whether or not to get my spotting scope out, go after the animal or pass.

 

[Red Leg]

Is that because europe is stricter on what you can take/not? Or is it because the terraine nessesitates higher magnification?

And whats the benifit of using the binos over glassing with a riflescope.

And on a side note. Do you have any good links or reference materials on judging deer/game in general example looking at the teeth or other metrics

Not exactly. Almost everywhere in Europe you will book for either a certain class of trophy (Bronze, Silver, Gold) or an "up to" weight or measurement. Let's say it is a bronze Gredos Ibex in Spain. The contract will be for a baseline bronze animal. Your typical guide or PH will try to get you the best and oldest animal of that class in the time available. I do not have the guide in front of me, but the difference between a baseline bronze and baseline silver is around 6 US inches (that's total not length). Of course the Spanish will be using the metric system. In most situations, the hunter will have an additional charge for the size above the baseline. For some species, that can be rather expensive.

I have hunted Europe quite a bit, and I like to have the ability to second guess my guide a bit - or with species that I do not know well - to learn from him. Roe deer, one of my favorites, and one I have hunted a great deal, can be particularly tricky and a few millimeters or grams over the baseline can get expensive. Looking over a borderline animal with my PH or guide can provide a lot of confidence in knowing what I might be getting into.

Glassing with a scope is inherently dangerous. Everywhere we point a rifle is potentially a target. I look at lots of things when glassing, and often spot people, horses, or cattle long before seeing them with the naked eye.

 

[whisk(e)y hunter]

I looked through the Sig 20x stabilized that my guide had on a mule deer hunt last January. They were pretty amazing.

I agree it’s probably not needed for closer/lower magnification, but it’s pretty awesome for longer range. My next set will be stabilized.