Custom Double Rifle Must Have Features? Opinions Needed

What is the opinion on a leather wrapped recoil pads? Just base it on personal aesthetic preference?
I like them, go for it. Touch of class in my book.
I am sure you have this on your list but I would put stock "ovals" or shields or whatever you call them with yall's initials on each rifle. Family heirloom pieces they sound like. When the next generation get them they can always have that oval swapped out with a new one, with their initials. Cheers
 
That’s exactly my point, Sir, and that’s why you don’t see them on the majority of double rifles. Ultimately, aesthetics also come into play.

I’ve yet to come across a PH using a peep sight on a double rifle. I have, however, seen a few PHs using red dots, although they’re still very much in the minority.
Yes. I am sure that is true of your experiences. I should note that I have owned and used doubles in 9.3x74R, 30-06, .375, 500/416, and .470 for thirty years. I currently own half a dozen. I am aware of what is normal in doubles.

We seem to have a fixation over the "proper" use and appearance of a double rifle. For instance, it is the primary reason the Blaser S2 was unsuccessful. The rifle is extraordinarily accurate, and designed to use a scope if desired. It's unique action will never shoot loose unlike every box or sidelock ever made. With mine, I have taken game from 25 to 250 yards. But writers like Terry Wieland derided it because it was different - simply not proper. If we are about to deal with an inbound bull at fifteen yards we certainly want to do that - how did you put it - aesthetically.

You are making the same argument with respect to a ghost ring (which technically is not a peep sight - one of which I do have on a between the wars 9.3). It is simply "not done" on a double rifle no matter how much more effective it might be. I just find it humorous that it is now generally grudgingly OK to skip the ghost ring stage of evolution of point and shoot and go straight to red dots on doubles. A smart move by the way. but still somewhat humorous.

Bailey Bradshaw builds a double that is every bit as non traditional as the S2. It is designed from jump street to be scoped, and due to its unique design, it can easily employ a ghost ring if the client wishes. The client can also equip it with a Z8i and take advantage of both its magnification for a difficult shot in the dark jess or dial it down and use it as a red dot for follow-up.
 
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I like them, go for it. Touch of class in my book.
I am sure you have this on your list but I would put stock "ovals" or shields or whatever you call them with yall's initials on each rifle. Family heirloom pieces they sound like. When the next generation get them they can always have that oval swapped out with a new one, with their initials. Cheers
Actually, leather covered pads were designed for shotguns not rifles. They allow the stock to slide into the proper position quickly when mounting the gun. A slippery recoil pad is the opposite of what one would desire on a heavy recoiling rifle. Even Rigby will be happy to install one if the client desires it - after all they are aesthetically pleasing. :rolleyes: But, you would never see one on a true working rifle.
 
Actually, leather covered pads were designed for shotguns not rifles. They allow the stock to slide into the proper position quickly when mounting the gun. A slippery recoil pad is the opposite of what one would desire on a heavy recoiling rifle. Even Rigby will be happy to install one if the client desires it - after all they are aesthetically pleasing. :rolleyes: But, you would never see one on a true working rifle.
Some people want looks over functionality. Part of me can understand it, but if one were to look back at “working” doubles of the early 20th century they were far different than the made to order ones of the wealthy. Wasn’t that the whole point of Army and Navy? To outfit the kings officers with quality built but fairly simple rifles and shotguns at a fair price. Even some of the big London names made simpler rifles.
 
Yes. I am sure that is true of your experiences. I should note that I have owned and used doubles in 9.3x74R, 30-06, .375, 500/416, and .470 for thirty years. I currently own half a dozen. I am aware of what is normal in doubles.

We seem to have a fixation over the "proper" use and appearance of a double rifle. For instance, it is the primary reason the Blaser S2 was unsuccessful. The rifle is extraordinarily accurate, and designed to use a scope if desired. It's unique action will never shoot loose unlike every box or sidelock ever made. With mine, I have taken game from 25 to 250 yards. But writers like Terry Wieland derided it because it was different - simply not proper. If we are about to deal with an inbound bull at fifteen yards we certainly want to do that - how did you put it - aesthetically.

You are making the same argument with respect to a ghost ring (which technically is not a peep sight - one of which I do have on a between the wars 9.3). It is simply "not done" on a double rifle no matter how much more effective it might be. I just find it humorous that it is now generally grudgingly OK to skip the ghost ring stage of evolution of point and shoot and go straight to red dots on doubles. A smart move by the way. but still somewhat humorous.

Bailey Bradshaw builds a double that is every bit as non traditional as the S2. It is designed from jump street to be scoped, and due to its unique design, it can easily employ a ghost ring if the client wishes. The client can also equip it with a Z8i and take advantage of both its magnification for a difficult shot in the dark jess or dial it down and use it as a red dot for follow-up.
I think we are actually closer in agreement than it may appear.
My point was never that a ghost ring is ineffective on a double rifle. Quite the opposite,I agree that, from a purely practical standpoint, it can be an excellent sighting system for a fast, close-range shot. And I certainly understand the argument that tradition sometimes dictates what is considered “proper” on a double.
Where I was coming from is simply that, after looking at how doubles are actually used in the field, I have yet to come across a PH who routinely uses a ghost ring on a double. I have, however, seen a few PHs using red dots, albeit still very much in the minority. That tells me there is probably a practical reason why the red dot has gained some acceptance while the ghost ring has not.

And yes, aesthetics absolutely plays a role with double rifles. That isn't necessarily a bad thing. A double is one of the few firearms where the mechanical and visual character of the rifle are part of the appeal. We can argue about whether that matters from a purely functional standpoint, but I don't think we can pretend it doesn't matter to double-rifle owners.

Your Blaser S2 is actually a very good example of the broader point. The fact that something is technically superior or more versatile doesn't necessarily mean it will be embraced by the traditional double-rifle community. The S2 may have been exceptionally capable, but it departed so far from the established aesthetic and mechanical conventions that many traditionalists simply didn't warm to it.

That's really what I was getting at with the ghost ring. It's not that it doesn't work, it clearly does. It's that there is still a strong distinction between what works and what the double-rifle community considers appropriate.

And I agree with you on one thing completely: if we have a buffalo coming in at fifteen yards, I want the sight that lets me put the bullets where they need to go not the sight that wins an argument about what is aesthetically correct!

The Bailey Bradshaw design sounds particularly interesting for precisely that reason. If a rifle can accommodate a ghost ring, a red dot, or a conventional scope without compromising its basic character, then perhaps that is the direction the modern double should be heading,letting the owner configure the rifle around how he actually intends to hunt rather than around what tradition says he should use.
 
I like them, go for it. Touch of class in my book.
I am sure you have this on your list but I would put stock "ovals" or shields or whatever you call them with yall's initials on each rifle. Family heirloom pieces they sound like. When the next generation get them they can always have that oval swapped out with a new one, with their initials. Cheers
Thanks! I settled on having our initials inlaid with gold on a CCH grip cap. For some reason I'm not very fond of the shields in the stock. If the next generation would like to put their own initials on I figure it wouldn’t be that hard to get a new grip cap made.
 
I think you about hit the nail on the head in your list. I believe Bailey's actions are "rising blocks" where pushing the lever forward lifts the blocks up above the stock. If you can slow you can extract the rounds, if you go fast the rounds will eject, though I wouldn't call it a true ejector. Bailey does fantastic work. The only two things I would add are a removable block should you decide to install a red dot at some point (unless what you are having done has some way of attaching a red dot) and I would add a trap grip cap in case you want to have additional sights and/or strikers.
 
I think you about hit the nail on the head in your list. I believe Bailey's actions are "rising blocks" where pushing the lever forward lifts the blocks up above the stock. If you can slow you can extract the rounds, if you go fast the rounds will eject, though I wouldn't call it a true ejector. Bailey does fantastic work. The only two things I would add are a removable block should you decide to install a red dot at some point (unless what you are having done has some way of attaching a red dot) and I would add a trap grip cap in case you want to have additional sights and/or strikers.
You are correct sir! I personally am excited about the ability to control the extraction/ejection speed. One thing I don’t like about my Ruger no 1 is that it launches the brass no matter what.

I am looking into the removable block for the red dot. His rifles come with a quarter rib I believe so I’m not sure if that would hinder a removable block or not. I think I could get a red dot mount that would work on the pre milled Talley grooves/bases however? Someone will have to correct me if I’m wrong on that.

On the addition sights, do you mean front sight? I’m a novice and not familiar with what you mean for additional sights. Probably against most people’s better judgment I am having a buttpad style cartridge trap installed (he can’t do a under-the-buttstock style such as in a drilling due to the way his buttstock attaches to the receiver) mostly just for my amusement, not actual real world applications, and should be able to have another smaller compartment in there for something tiny I might need.
 
I would not have a buttpad style cartridge trap, especially on a nitro double. As a family heirloom, if someone else wants to change the LOP and you have a classic style Silvers pad, you have some options. It handles recoil better than anything that will have a trap. Lastly, you don’t won’t your rounds flaying around with recoil, regardless of orientation (though some would be better than others).

I’ve never met Mr Bradshaw, but have a lot of respect for his work. He seems to come to this from a practical, machinists perspective, with innovative engineering. I would not try and duplicate all the British London Best features - bolted safeties, moon sights, grip traps, extended tangs. All these doo dads were upsells of dubious practical value. The PH grade guns did not have them. In modern parlance, they could be called “margin”.

For a Bradshaw rifles, I would invest in a really pretty stick of wood with straight grain through the grip and color case hardening. That would highlight the engineering simplicity his design features and not ry to make it into something its not.
 
You are correct sir! I personally am excited about the ability to control the extraction/ejection speed. One thing I don’t like about my Ruger no 1 is that it launches the brass no matter what.

I am looking into the removable block for the red dot. His rifles come with a quarter rib I believe so I’m not sure if that would hinder a removable block or not. I think I could get a red dot mount that would work on the pre milled Talley grooves/bases however? Someone will have to correct me if I’m wrong on that.

On the addition sights, do you mean front sight? I’m a novice and not familiar with what you mean for additional sights. Probably against most people’s better judgment I am having a buttpad style cartridge trap installed (he can’t do a under-the-buttstock style such as in a drilling due to the way his buttstock attaches to the receiver) mostly just for my amusement, not actual real world applications, and should be able to have another smaller compartment in there for something tiny I might need.
Yes sir. You can change out the front sights if it comes with the set screw. Great to have a spare if you knock one of hitting something on a hunt.
 
Humor me for a few moments. This is a picture of a Regulator 35, it costs around 800k and weighs over 8 tons and is powered by 3 , 350 HP outboards feed by a 400 gallon fuel tank. It is an absolute beast of a fishing machine. I of course want one. The average customer that comes to Regulator to spec this boat out new is ordering the 7th boat of their lifetime. 7th...

You appear to be a young guy with 2 cute little kids and a very fortunate economic situation. Just because you can, does not mean you should, YET. I will be the first guy to tell you or anybody that it's your money and you should spend it the way you see fit. But, your family will determine more about your future than you would believe at your age. Some kids like soccer, some like to hunt with their old man (fortunately mine does) and some want to dance and sing in plays etc. Your health will be the most important thing in your life, one day when you least expect it.

The reason it's the average customers 7th boat is because they built up on years of experience, close calls and mistakes, with other boats they have owned. This is not the boat to learn to drive, dock and fish. This is the result of finally knowing what matters to YOU. Take another trip or two to Africa, buy and shoot some other doubles, and order that custom rifle when you can picture it perfectly in your head without asking anyone else what they think. That's my thoughts, worth exactly what you paid for 'em! But it's always your money.


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One thing I don’t like about my Ruger no 1 is that it launches the brass no matter what.
Noah

It is a very simple matter to adjust the spring tension on the ejector. Remove the forearm, find the ejector spring screw and turn it out a bit and try a case. Adjust to taste.
 
Add automatic ejectors and a soft recoil pad those two make a huge difference every time you shoot it. Everything else on your list looks solid.
 
Ejectors and make sure the weight of the gun matches the caliber meaning if it is too light for a heavy caliber it will be miserable to shoot
I agree with this wholeheartedly! The weight of the gun is a big deal when dealing with dangerous game calibers. Shooting an appropriately weighted gun versus one that is too light is the difference between shooting accurately and quickly, versus getting punched in the face.
 
I have read most all the posts on this thread and they have covered most all the options. Having owned and shot over 25 doubles in the last 20 years will add my .02 worth.

For me it is about developing a list of requirements, that you want this rifle built to.

a couple questions.

1. Is this double going to be a heritage kinds rifle?
A.where you get hit and hunt with it for life and pass one to your heirs when you pass. If so have it built to your exact desires and you are the only one that has to like it.

2. You will have the rifle built and hunt with it till you can't anymore then sell it?
A. Have it built to a standard that will have the largest appeal and resale value. As you will be building for a larger market.


If it was my build for question # 1.
Built with the highest grade exhibition walnut (English walnut is my choice)
Colorcase action, rings, and grip cap.
Barrels 500NE, 9.3x74, and 20 ga. rust blued
Set up with removable blocks in the 1/4 rib to fit a scope or red dot.
Standard iron sights with a ghost ring option.
Custom oak and leather case (Elephant leather)

If option 2
Nice AAA walnut
rust blued action
rust blued barrels 500 NE and 450/400
standard iron sights
nice heavy plastic makers case
 
Thank you, I have been in talks with him extensively about this, the 500 NE double is going to weigh 12 pounds or just under. Aiming for 10 pounds for the 375 Flanged. You reckon this is appropriate?
I have a 11 1/2 lbs 500 NE.

I bit heavy to carry for the day but nice to shoot.

For me, If I were to do it over, I would look for 11 lbs build and take the recoil when hunting where you really dont feel it.

Then on the range I worked up a light load with IMR 3031 that is actually easy to shoot for many rounds and would work well in an 11 lbs rifle.
 
1. Is this double going to be a heritage kinds rifle?
A.where you get hit and hunt with it for life and pass one to your heirs when you pass. If so have it built to your exact desires and you are the only one that has to like it.

2. You will have the rifle built and hunt with it till you can't anymore then sell it?
A. Have it built to a standard that will have the largest appeal and resale value. As you will be building for a larger market.


If it was my build for question # 1.
Built with the highest grade exhibition walnut (English walnut is my choice)
Colorcase action, rings, and grip cap.
Barrels 500NE, 9.3x74, and 20 ga. rust blued
Set up with removable blocks in the 1/4 rib to fit a scope or red dot.
Standard iron sights with a ghost ring option.
Custom oak and leather case (Elephant leather)

If option 2
Nice AAA walnut
rust blued action
rust blued barrels 500 NE and 450/400
standard iron sights
nice heavy plastic makers case
Very good thoughts, one more question and it may have been covered already is budget.
 
I have a 11 1/2 lbs 500 NE.

I bit heavy to carry for the day but nice to shoot.

For me, If I were to do it over, I would look for 11 lbs build and take the recoil when hunting where you really dont feel it.

Then on the range I worked up a light load with IMR 3031 that is actually easy to shoot for many rounds and would work well in an 11 lbs rifle.
Thank you, I have been in talks with him extensively about this, the 500 NE double is going to weigh 12 pounds or just under. Aiming for 10 pounds for the 375 Flanged. You reckon this is appropriate?
Mine is a 470 and weighs 10.5 lbs, loaded perhaps around 11 lbs. I use RL 15 for practice and full loads with H4350, H4830, VIT 150, 160 and also used RL 19, 22 occasionaly as my hunting loads.

12 pounds for 500 will be fun to shoot at range and on DG, may not be all that fun to carry all day every day for 10 days unless you are physically very strong and fit.
 
@SStomcat "Very good thoughts, one more question and it may have been covered already is budget."

I made the assumption that the budget had been sufficient to cover costs. But you are correct in the "budget" question.
 

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Be careful of this Wolfen guy. 2 messages. Both trying to sell something. He PM'ed me trying to sell something and he PM'ed my friend on here trying to sell something. Fishy.
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autofire wrote on Dr Ray's profile.
Hi Dr. Ray, I will be in Cooktown from Oct 16 to Oct 23 fishing Lizard Island Black Marlin Tournament.

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