9.3x62 mauser build

baxterb said:

Curious how well this feeds with no metal work done to the underside of the action or rails? The narrower 06 mag box (if it was properly dimensioned per Mauser) will still make the front of the rounds stack slightly narrow.

Are there long marks on the brass? Notches in the rim? Shavings anywhere? does the nose of the bullet leave even (left and right) marks on the feed ramp?

I only bring this up for having spent a great deal of time and money getting a former 06 Husky 640 action to feed a 9.3 like butter. Took more effort than expected, but now feeds anything.

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This action will feed cases with no Bullets, seems most mausers will. My 7X57AI will do the same and will my other sporter german 98. The mag box was lengthened on the inside from when they sporterized it, I may see if I can get some more room out of it but probably only 40-50 thousands with out stretching it. The mag was ment for 7.65x53 and in the front of the mag it's been scalloped from mauser for the stack to be wider.i may have to do some more but won't until I have the stock.

Hunter-Habib said:

German Style- its’s a German caliber
Grade 5 Turkish Walnut- A few scratches in the stock here and there are signs that the owner has taken the rifle out on a lifetime of adventures
Model 70 style safety- Personal preference

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I just hope I can get a blank for not much over $200', I'll call Richard's micro fits one day and see what they got.

baxterb said:

I'd call that lucky...

middle left is a 375 box, middle right a 404 -

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I know a guy who finished up a 425 Westley Richards on an original Oberndorf action - it did NOT use the two fingers at the rear of the action as spec'd by WR. Said it fed unbelievably well, and was the only factory mauser action he'd ever seen in 425. Surel;y mauser's rule was played with for that to a degree, but I've never seen it fail when applied from the beginning.

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I used 415 Rem Mag bottom metal, not 375. I knew 375 wouldn't work. Too narrow and not enough metal to open it up without cutting the sides and refabricating. I had Swift-Blackburn send me the blueprints for a couple of bottom metal. I calculated there would be just enough metal at top of the Rem 416 box to open the shoulder zone up for 404J per Paul Mauser specs (plenty of metal thickness in walls at bottom of the box due to drift when machining). Should be able to open it up with hand tools so I ordered one. But before I went to work carving inside the box, I put it in the gun and tried it (after extending feeding ramp of course). The feeding rails would need changing. Turns out only the right one needed any significant modification. The left one was nearly good to go as is (keeping in mind this vz.24 action had been converted to 30-06 before I bought it and I never cycled an 06 round through it so have no idea what or if anything had been done to change the rails). But I could tell immediately the feeding changes did not require changing the box.

I was wrong (but not entirely) when I asserted that the 416 box squeezes the rounds to point them at the center of the ramp. Stacking rounds in the box off the gun and no follower spring, I could see a slight squeezing at the shoulder and uplifting the end of the bullet. However, once the bottom metal is in the gun this is corrected by the feeding rails. The bullets are pointed where they should be to their respective side of the ramp. Here's a photo looking in. Wish I'd taken one before mounting the rail. As you can see, everything is where it should be. This gun now cycles very slick. But it took some careful work. Care in selecting the bottom metal provided a significant shortcut. I wouldn't call it entirely luck.

This one has been on my back burner for some time. Interrupted by prostate cancer and knee replacement. LW barrel. 9.3x62.

Another action, this one for a 35 Whelen. D&T for 8-40. Milled off the "hump".

John P. said:

This one has been on my back burner for some time. Interrupted by prostate cancer and knee replacement. LW barrel. 9.3x62.

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Hope you get better,

mauserhunter said:

I have a bunch of leupold 3 hole bases, the 9.3 has some recoil so 4 screws is best. I'm even debating making the holes 8-40 threads. I am really picky about some things and ocd if not perfect, drilling a hole off or crooked would make me crazy. Be looking online for a wheeler or bsquared drilling figure but no luck.

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My gunsmith strongly recommended a 1 piece Leupold base when adding a scope to my 1912 Steyr Mauser 98, that had the stripper clip hump milled off to add a ghost ring sight. I wanted 2 piece Talley bases.

The idea that the front ring, and rear bridge most likely would not be truly aligned in 3 dimensions as manufactured tolerances were not an issue for this precise alignment, and modified rear bridge.

He explained that it was possible that a 100 yard zero could be off at 200 or 300 yards, and accuracy would suck.

The one piece base, properly installed, would make a solid foundation for the scope, and not introduce torque on the scope.

We looked for a Weaver style but as OntarioHunter said, too high.

I went with the Leupold 1 piece and the rifle is accurate throughout various ranges.

cajunchefray said:

My gunsmith strongly recommended a 1 piece Leupold base when adding a scope to my 1912 Steyr Mauser 98, that had the stripper clip hump milled off to add a ghost ring sight. I wanted 2 piece Talley bases.

The idea that the front ring, and rear bridge most likely would not be truly aligned in 3 dimensions as manufactured tolerances were not an issue for this precise alignment, and modified rear bridge.

He explained that it was possible that a 100 yard zero could be off at 200 or 300 yards, and accuracy would suck.

The one piece base, properly installed, would make a solid foundation for the scope, and not introduce torque on the scope.

We looked for a Weaver style but as OntarioHunter said, too high.

I went with the Leupold 1 piece and the rifle is accurate throughout various ranges.

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The Mauser is a .35 Whelen, 8/40 screws. Haven’t had any problems.

A one piece won't help much if the action is way off, those small screws still have hundreds of pounds clamping force if not more even a thick steel Pic rail will bend. That's why the jig to gring the bridges is so handy but I can't find one anywhere same with the drilling fixtures. I may pickup a set of Talley ultralight mounts to fry on a98 mauser, I've been using them now for 4 years after I was given a pare for my Browning Abolt and now ave tust in them. Use them on my Mauser m18 and have a set foe my pre-64 m70 to try out.

My way: Drill & tap 8-40 and mill the rear bridge in the same setup, prevents future problems. Note that everything is referenced to the bottom flat of the receiver.

And if you want to go one step further, I have a jig for the surface grinder to grind the receiver ring true.

Darn you are making me anxious to return to my 9.3 project after a long period of illness (prostate cancer).

No scope, irons only, so it will not be drilled and tapped.

Here it is, ready to silver solder the sights:

John P. said:

My way: Drill & tap 8-40 and mill the rear bridge in the same setup, prevents future problems. Note that everything is referenced to the bottom flat of the receiver.

And if you want to go one step further, I have a jig for the surface grinder to grind the receiver ring true.

View attachment 583509

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John any idea how much you would charge for the d&t and milling the clip hump.