Bedding a Husqvarna 1640 9.3x62

[wheelgun6t9]

Hi All!! I've done a lot of reading but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking to understand. I recently purchased a Husqvarna 1640 in 9.3x62 and though I have a lot of experience with 30-06, I've never owned anything with more punch.

The barrel is not free-floated at all and I'm concerned about potential cracking in the wrist. The wood is up against the rear tang.

So here's my questions to put to the experts here! I suspect these have been answered but my searches haven't been super successful.

1) How far up past the lug would you recommend I bed? a couple inches?

2) I'm confused on bedding the tang area. If I relieve the wood a bit behind the tang, but then add bedding to that area, what's the difference between the steel up against the stock vs bedding up aganst the stock. It would seem both would add pressure and potentially cause a crack. Do folks just leave a space behind the tang?

3) One last question - is the recoil of the 9.3x62 enough that I should consider adding pillars or cross bolts or is that overkill for this caliber?

Thanks so much for any opinions folks have on this!

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

I’m not 100% familiar with the 1640, is that the one based on the 98 action? Or the 96?
And assuming it is a standard style rifle and not a full wood (stutzen)

1) I bed the Knox form past the lug area however far that is on your barrel
2) relieve the back of the tang and the sides if they taper, do not re-bed this area, only under the tang to give a flat surface for the tang to pull against, but on a good stock this shouldn’t be necessary
3) check to see if there is an internal cross bolt, if not I would add a cross bolt to be safe. It may not need it but I tend to add them, it shouldn’t need pillars, if any it would only be the back one if a 98 style receiver
Gumpy

 

[wheelgun6t9]

I’m not 100% familiar with the 1640, is that the one based on the 98 action? Or the 96?
And assuming it is a standard style rifle and not a full wood (stutzen)

1) I bed the Knox form past the lug area however far that is on your barrel
2) relieve the back of the tang and the sides if they taper, do not re-bed this area, only under the tang to give a flat surface for the tang to pull against, but on a good stock this shouldn’t be necessary
3) check to see if there is an internal cross bolt, if not I would add a cross bolt to be safe. It may not need it but I tend to add them, it shouldn’t need pillars, if any it would only be the back one if a 98 style receiver
Gumpy

Thank you for the insights! The 1640 is 98 style (3 lug) but the serial number puts mine at 1958 so I think it's somewhat modified from the standard 98 action (but I'm still learning so definitely no expert on this action)

I really appreciate your recommendations!

 

[AZDAVE]

@Grumpy gumpy Covered it quite well.

The rear pillar on this style action is more to keep the heavy handed from tightening the rear action screw to the point it starts crushing wood. so if you are a gorilla kinda guy with a turn screw put in a pillar if you stay within the torque specs you are good to go.

 

[farmer_john]

Hi All!! I've done a lot of reading but haven't seen exactly what I'm looking to understand. I recently purchased a Husqvarna 1640 in 9.3x62 and though I have a lot of experience with 30-06, I've never owned anything with more punch.

The barrel is not free-floated at all and I'm concerned about potential cracking in the wrist. The wood is up against the rear tang.

So here's my questions to put to the experts here! I suspect these have been answered but my searches haven't been super successful.

1) How far up past the lug would you recommend I bed? a couple inches?

2) I'm confused on bedding the tang area. If I relieve the wood a bit behind the tang, but then add bedding to that area, what's the difference between the steel up against the stock vs bedding up aganst the stock. It would seem both would add pressure and potentially cause a crack. Do folks just leave a space behind the tang?

3) One last question - is the recoil of the 9.3x62 enough that I should consider adding pillars or cross bolts or is that overkill for this caliber?

Thanks so much for any opinions folks have on this!

Id pay a gunsmith to glass and pillar bed it.
And get a set of fixit sticks for torqueing the action screws

 

[Nhoro]

You need to remove 1-2 mm behind the tang so that the action does not contact the stock. Even if you bed this area, you need some relief. You can drill into the wrist from the tang area and bed some thread bar into the wrist to strengthen. I free floated my barrel and bedded the recoil lugs only on my big bore but most will bed the action and the chamber area- so a couple of inches of barrel.

The main areas that I have seen cracks in bolts actions are similar, no matter the manufacturer. Behind the recoil lug, between the lug and magazine and magazine and trigger. Also at the tang especially if oil from the action collects there. Breaks to the wrist are often from a drop or fall. I have seen splits staring at crossbolts.

I have seen probably the best strength idea but not tried it myself. A guy rostered slots across behind the trigger, between trigger and mag and mag and recoil lug. He then bedded threaded bar into the slots as hidden crossbolts.

 

[wheelgun6t9]

You need to remove 1-2 mm behind the tang so that the action does not contact the stock. Even if you bed this area, you need some relief. You can drill into the wrist from the tang area and bed some thread bar into the wrist to strengthen. I free floated my barrel and bedded the recoil lugs only on my big bore but most will bed the action and the chamber area- so a couple of inches of barrel.

The main areas that I have seen cracks in bolts actions are similar, no matter the manufacturer. Behind the recoil lug, between the lug and magazine and magazine and trigger. Also at the tang especially if oil from the action collects there. Breaks to the wrist are often from a drop or fall. I have seen splits staring at crossbolts.

I have seen probably the best strength idea but not tried it myself. A guy rostered slots across behind the trigger, between trigger and mag and mag and recoil lug. He then bedded threaded bar into the slots as hidden crossbolts.

These are great ideas! Thanks for the comment!

 

[thoma018]

@Nhoro....I have seen probably the best strength idea but not tried it myself. A guy rostered slots across behind the trigger, between trigger and mag and mag and recoil lug. He then bedded threaded bar into the slots as hidden crossbolts.

Can you explain this a bit better ? Was this threaded rod from one side of the stock to the other ?
I've dremeled "troughs" into the inside sides of stocks primarily forward of the trigger to just behind the recoil lug to repair/strengthen and then covered and filled with Marine text but I'm not quite understanding ythe idea you're passing on.
Thanks