416WSM on Siamese Mauser & 416/348Ackley Improved on Martini

[AZDAVE]

Like the design of the saftey. Good work.

 

[BlueFlyer]

Feedback from my cousin is that he does not like the left hand side activation. He would prefer that it fuctioned the same as early Brno safeties. Where forward and right, orientated across the bolt is safe. Fully back and orientated in line with the bolt is Fire.
By only mirroring the lever I think this can be achieved, but I cannot include the bolt lock with the laser cut blanks I have. Back to the shed to make one up for trial #2.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Feedback from my cousin is that he does not like the left hand side activation. He would prefer that it fuctioned the same as early Brno safeties. Where forward and right, orientated across the bolt is safe. Fully back and orientated in line with the bolt is Fire.
By only mirroring the lever I think this can be achieved, but I cannot include the bolt lock with the laser cut blanks I have. Back to the shed to make one up for trial #2.

I would not want full back to be the fire position if avoidable. It is more awkward for thumb to pull safety back when gun is mounted. Simply pushing safety forward is more natural than trying to catch, hold, and pull it back. If safety remains on left side, it definitely should be pushed forward to fire for right handed rifle, if possible.

 

[BlueFlyer]

I now understand this design better after working on my own safety design.

The initial force to pull the cocking piece off the sear is high and needs a large pressure pad on the safety lever or else it is uncomfortable.
I have also improved the ramp on the cocking piece to help the safety pin cam the cocking piece off the sear.

To improve my lever I added an extension at the end to double the size of the pressure point on the lever. To attach the extension I turned a stepped cylinder OD of 4mm and then stepped down to 2.5mm. I drilled a 2.5mm hole through the lever and pressed them together. Finally I riveted the top of the 2.5mm shaft into the top of the lever and then polished it all back to a flat surface. Finally I flame blued it just to make it look a bit better. This is still a prototype, the final version will be case hardened.

The changes have greatly improved the ease of applying the safety. The clearance for the scope is fantastic. There has never been any problems moving it from fully locked bolt handle back to safe and then fire. It is a true 3 position safety.

 

[BlueFlyer]

A few updates on the 416WSM Siamese Mauser.
I changed the scope from the Vortex 2-7X32 which had performed perfectly, to a Leupold HD3 1.5-5X20 and put it in the lowest rings available.

100 pieces of Bertram Brass arrived today with 416WSM head stamp - guess I can use it anywhere now.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Looks great. How's the bolt modification coming along?

 

[rdog]

Well you wouldn't go wong if you got an albow as well.

I would have a party& get drunk & i do not drink.

 

[rdog]

A few updates on the 416WSM Siamese Mauser.
I changed the scope from the Vortex 2-7X32 which had performed perfectly, to a Leupold HD3 1.5-5X20 and put it in the lowest rings available.
View attachment 712532
View attachment 712533

100 pieces of Bertram Brass arrived today with 416WSM head stamp - guess I can use it anywhere now.
View attachment 712537

Good job, the rifle looks great you are very talented.

 

[BlueFlyer]

How's the bolt modification coming along?

I am very reluctant to start cutting into the Siamese Mauser shroud, as there is zero chance of finding a replacement.
Instead, I want to convert the K98 system to function in the Siamese bolt. The K98 shroud and my 3 position safety fit the Siamese bolt, BUT the tip of the K98 firing pin is about 1mm short and does not protrude out of the bolt face.
I have ordered a couple of 2.5mm carbide drills from Aliexpress. The plan is to cut off the current K98 tip and then drill a socket with the carbide drill, without needing to modify the heat treatment. Then use a 2.5mm high speed drill shank to create the new tip.
Time will tell how robust this modification is.

 

[BlueFlyer]

Not sure if any of you are aware that Bertram also make projectiles. They are not in the same league as Woodleigh welded cores. But at the relatively modest velocity of the 416WSM they might just be OK.
At AU$120 for 100 they will definately be good for practice.

 

[Rule 303]

Not sure if any of you are aware that Bertram also make projectiles. They are not in the same league as Woodleigh welded cores. But at the relatively modest velocity of the 416WSM they might just be OK.
At AU$120 for 100 they will definately be good for practice.
View attachment 713296

Bertram make good cup & core bullets. They work well out of my 303, 35 Whelen and I now have some to test in my 8X57. Bruce B said to me that his 416 cal are not meant for use on big tough animals, get Woodleigh's for that.

 

[Grumpy gumpy]

I use their .423 projectiles in my 404Jeff
Gumpy

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Unfortunately, it appears Bertram USA is closing shop. I think they only sold brass in the US. I wonder if it would be possible to import their bullets to Canada?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I use their .423 projectiles in my 404Jeff
Gumpy

Shooting buffalo? What weights are available? Bertram in Australia doesn't appear to have a website and I'm not Facebook friendly.

 

[Rule 303]

Shooting buffalo? What weights are available? Bertram in Australia doesn't appear to have a website and I'm not Facebook friendly.

Shooting buffalo? What weights are available? Bertram in Australia doesn't appear to have a website and I'm not Facebook friendly.

400 grain in the 404.
Below is there Email address.
Bruce Bertram <b.bertram1@bigpond.com>

 

[BlueFlyer]

I wonder if it would be possible to import their bullets to Canada?

I have looked into this before when someone on here was after some 9.3X64B brass. For an individual to send ammunition components is very difficult.

Getting that export permit from the Department of Defence is onerous and costs are considerable, so you would need to be exporting a considerable quantity to make it worthwhile.

The Bertram complete list of brass & projectiles is attached.

 

[BlueFlyer]

I have been reluctant to start cutting into the Siamese Mauser shroud to install the safety as there is zero chance of finding spare parts if I get it wrong.
The K98 parts sort of fitted the SM bolt, but the firing pin was too short and the pin tip ended up flush with the bolt face rather than protruding. The firing pin on the SM is 1.8mm diameter and protruded 1.8mm from the bolt face. The challenge was how to modify the K98 firing pin to replicate the SM.
It turns out that decaping pins are 1.8mm in diameter. I bought some 1.8mm carbide drills from Aliexpress thinking the K98 firing pin was too hard to drill with high speed drills. The K98 firing pin is obviously annealed to the point it is durable and definately not brittle. I could drill it with a high speed centre drill, but I did drill a socket using the carbide drill 14.00mm deep.

The decapping pin was a slight press fit, and I also used some Loctite just for insurance.

The modified K98 firing pin now protrudes 1.75mm out from the bolt face compared to the original SM 1.80mm. No heat in this process so all the original heat treatment is uneffected.

The 3 postion safety provides ample clearance to the scope with low rings.

This coming weekend we will make sure about the full function of the modified firing pin and 3 position safety. If all goes well, then I will be prepared to modify one of my SM bolt shrouds with a 3 position safety.

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Interesting. Do you think Loktite will be strong enough? I would be concerned about dry firing and the firing pin tip becoming loose. But maybe this is only a backup firing pin in case cutting the Siamese bolt shroud goes awry and you have to fall back on the K98 spare shroud and firing pin? So what rifle is in the lower photo if you haven't cut the Siamese bolt shroud?

Edit: Rereading I now understand you have modified and installed a K98 bolt shroud and firing pin on your Siamese rifle. You're keeping the original hard to replace Siamese parts unmodified in reserve until you test the K98 parts. I'm sure the K98 firing pin tip will hold up for testing but long term might be questionable?

How do the shoulders of two firing pins compare? I presume both bottom against bolt shroud the same.

 

[BlueFlyer]

I'm sure the K98 firing pin tip will hold up for testing but long term might be questionable?

Agreed, but I have more confidence now that I have not affected the factory heat treatment on the firing pin body or the decapping pin tip. I was worried if I silver soldered the tip in the body it might get brittle. More chance it would break if it was brittle.
The loctite is only needed for dry firing (which I don't do much). In my experience loctite should work very well in this application. We will see this weekend.