Which .416 Rigby?

If I was to get one of those I'd burn the stock and get some decent timber. Sorry gents but those lumps of wood are way to garish for me. I like plain timber with good grain flow and preferably on the dark side. Come to think of it, after reading this thread I see there are people that like these stocks so I'd probably sell it for a good price.
 
In my dreams, I'd pick the grade 9 i.e. the one on the right in the first picture. But then I'd have to convince myself that shooting it wouldn't result in a cracked or broken stock. It might be different if Rigby guaranteed free stock replacement with equal or better wood. In the meantime, WOW.
 
Third from left is the only one I have high confidence in the wood’s structure. Will the others hold up? Probably. For the price point, would it be better to have less flamboyance and better grain flow through the wrist? Definitely. Would that cost more and be less attractive? Yes and yes.
Very interesting consideration that I would not have thought of previously!
 
Very interesting consideration that I would not have thought of previously!


Never fall for pretty wood. I can show you worthless wood that is 10x more attractive than the Rigby photos. Studying wood structure is like finding flaws and grading precious stones. It takes training, but that training is the difference between $300 wood and $6000 wood even though they have an identical aesthetic. You need to assume wood is going to crack and then look at where/how under stress of recoil.

Only one of those 6 rifle's stocks is "excellent" wood and it happens to be one of the less figured pieces. You're looking for a gentle curve of the grain structure flowing through the wrist, not straight grain running parallel through the wrist. You also don't want straight grains running due south of the tang and safety, that's a weak spot and where recoil forces are likely to split the wood.
 
How stuff works. Sincere apologies I have not one iota of artistic talent and can barely write my name. The only reason I can do anything of quality is that I'm anal and precise with guns and antiques, not because I can naturally draw a straight line.

IMG_1224.JPG
 
How stuff works. Sincere apologies I have not one iota of artistic talent and can barely write my name. The only reason I can do anything of quality is that I'm anal and precise with guns and antiques, not because I can naturally draw a straight line.

View attachment 658568
I thought it was a good sketch, IE enough to show what you mean in a easily understood way so to say. A picture says more then thousand words as they say.

The stock for my incoming custom rifle seems to get it somewhat right, IE the curly parts only in the buttstock and a more straight line to the grip. Picture below, would it be strong enough? Only a .375 H&H thought and the gun smith have since equipped it with a second stock bult behind the magazine aswell but a smaller one. But I would hate for it to crack regardless...

20240930_111055 k.jpg


20240930_111152 k.jpg
 
KJE81 I would think that stock will stand up to more than a 375. from my 358RUM and up all my rifles have cross bolts in front of action behind the action and a pin through the wrist. Also there is a cards clearance between the tang and the timber and they are bedded.
 

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Never fall for pretty wood. I can show you worthless wood that is 10x more attractive than the Rigby photos. Studying wood structure is like finding flaws and grading precious stones. It takes training, but that training is the difference between $300 wood and $6000 wood even though they have an identical aesthetic. You need to assume wood is going to crack and then look at where/how under stress of recoil.

Only one of those 6 rifle's stocks is "excellent" wood and it happens to be one of the less figured pieces. You're looking for a gentle curve of the grain structure flowing through the wrist, not straight grain running parallel through the wrist. You also don't want straight grains running due south of the tang and safety, that's a weak spot and where recoil forces are likely to split the wood.
I’m looking at all those stocks and all have very nice graining through the wrist. All those rifle stocks are well up to the task of that chambering…
 
I’m looking at all those stocks and all have very nice graining through the wrist. All those rifle stocks are well up to the task of that chambering…
How can you see that with the glare from coating?
 
Blueflyer, that seems like a good price on the elephant skin rifle
 
I’m looking at all those stocks and all have very nice graining through the wrist. All those rifle stocks are well up to the task of that chambering…
Just enlarge the photo. I enlarged it to the point where I can see all graining and structure
 
How stuff works. Sincere apologies I have not one iota of artistic talent and can barely write my name. The only reason I can do anything of quality is that I'm anal and precise with guns and antiques, not because I can naturally draw a straight line.

View attachment 658568
I wonder if AH would consider making you professor emeritus?
 

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SCmackey wrote on SBW1975's profile.
I have a Chapuis 450-400 double that looks brand new and shoots well, never been hunted from what I can tell. I am willing to part with it as I have a 375 H&H Sodia on it's way from Dorleac & Dorleac. I am looking for $9,250 for it and if you are interested, I am happy to send you some pictures. Regards,
Steve
SCmackey wrote on buckstix's profile.
Hi There, I saw the pics of the VC 470 NE, what is the asking price? Thanks, Steve
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