How do you sharpen your knife?

When I was 5 or so I asked my dad how to sharpen a knife, he showed me the old wet stone way. I could put a pretty good edge on any knife with one.

I graduated to a oil stone and ended up with the same results as a wet stone.

I tried a few fancy sharpeners when they hit the market but then one night I was watching a infomercial on TV where they were showing the Work Sharp. I bought one of them and have never gone back.

Before I leave for the field I'll use the Work Sharp to put a razor edge on the knifes that I am taking, once or twice a year I'll sharpen up all my knifes in the kitchen. I had a friend who while we were elk hunting complained that the knifes in his camper were duller than dull. I took them and within minutes had them sharp enough to shave with.. It wasn't two days later that the same friend cut a finger to the bone by just cleaning one of his knifes with a towel.

There are times that I'll even sharpen up the replaceable blades on a Outdoor Edge razor knife. They don't come out quite as sharp as the factory edge but they are still pretty darn sharp.
@JimP
Love my ken Onion version of the work sharp.
Used to sharpen all my knives on a where stone and finish with a black Arkansas stone.
The stones now sit in the shed.
All my knives including the ones in the kitchen are scary sharp. Man you can nick your eyeballs just buy looking at them.
Bob
 
I’m a fan of the KME knife sharpener. It is similar to the work sharp with a guide and a clamp to hold the blade. I use that for my archery broadheads and my skinning knives. When finished with leather, the edge is truly impressive. They easily shave hair. I use a 20 or 25 degree edge.

If I’m only focusing on a functionally sharp knife, then a tri stone from the kitchen works fine.

I carry my own butchering kit when I hunt. I also bring a steel and stone to touch up blades.
 
I tried a number of different things, included most mentioned here. Then on a hunt in the Save our PH sharpened my knife with a speedy sharp. I’ve never used anything else since. Cheap, fast, and sharpens like nothing else I’ve ever used.

View attachment 589362
Just ordered one based on your recommendation!

Thanks
 
Tundra: I’ve used devices like this to get an edge back on an extremely dull knife - but Never to maintain that edge. They take off too much steel (in my opinion). Although it takes longer I get my finest edge on stones - 1000 to 3000. Sometimes, while watching TV, I will touch up and hone several of my better knives - it’s “relaxing” but admitt it takes time. There are many people that can hone a keener edge on a knife then I can - but most use fine grade stones as has traditionally been done for many years
@HankBuck
I've been using the work sharp for a few years now and to maintain a keen edge I use the fine or polishing belt. Removes about the same amount of metal as a very fine stone.
Bob
 
Hey jacks: nice looking knives and like the Burl handles. I would think Work Sharp motorized belts are OK to use on a very limited basis - they remove more steel then traditional honing so with regular use they wear away too much blade for me to be comfortable with — but they are fast and work, especially on a very dull knife. I would use them more for a heavy Cleaver or Ax.
@HankBuck
The beauty of the Ken Onion edition is I can adjust the belt speed and using a worn fine belt in low speed actually polishes the edge.
To me it's all about learning to use it properly.
A coarse belt in high speed will reduce a blade to an ice pick very quickly.
Bob
 
Many interesting answers. However, I would be grateful for comments about the Lansky and to the related sharpening method
 
When I started this thread, I probably should have added “and at what angle”.

In my shop, most of my knife sharpening take place on the Ken Onion work sharp.

My workers use the company knives “Victorinox” 12”” blade “Blaze Orange handles. After skinning elephants are very dull, chipped etc. the Ken Onion makes short work of a dozen big knives.
 
When I started this thread, I probably should have added “and at what angle”.

In my shop, most of my knife sharpening take place on the Ken Onion work sharp.

My workers use the company knives “Victorinox” 12”” blade “Blaze Orange handles. After skinning elephants are very dull, chipped etc. the Ken Onion makes short work of a dozen big knives.
I prefer a scandi grind (Convex) edge. I find this cuts easier then a straight taper.

Hard work knives 21 to 25 degree for dressing, skinning etc 15 to 17 degree is what I think mine get sharpened to.
 
How do you control the utility blades while using the Work Sharp?
BTW, I don't think I've seen any "fine" kitchen knives if they are stainless steel, it is invariably cheap stuff no matter the brand or price...sad
I don’t use the guide they provide, I do it by eye and have a gauge for my axe that I use to verify edge angles.

I only have 3 fine kitchen knives; chef’s, paring and boning. All are forged high carbon D2 stainless steel.

I wish I had the need (and time) for a Tormek T8 to put razor sharp blades on all my knives consistently.

1709115983493.jpeg
 
@HankBuck
The beauty of the Ken Onion edition is I can adjust the belt speed and using a worn fine belt in low speed actually polishes the edge.
To me it's all about learning to use it properly.
A coarse belt in high speed will reduce a blade to an ice pick very quickly.
Bob
Bob, I suspect that you purchased this ”Belt Sander-Chainsaw” of a Machine just to destroy .243 rifles —- in high volume…. Then as the belts wore down, you get some use out of it sharpening a few knives (that You made from .243 barrel steel).
 
A cheap “Ken onion” option is the harbor freight 1” belt sander.. $49

You can get belts anywhere from 40 grit to 1000 grit at empire abrasives pretty cheap…


I prefer a paper wheel and polishing compound to put a scalpel edge on a blade.. but a 800 grit ceramic belt will do the same job pretty quickly and doesn’t risk removing a lot of material…

If I use the belt method, I just finish up with a leather strop block and a few strokes over jewelers compound … and get a wickedly sharp edge

If you don’t trust your eye to get the angles right or don’t have a steady hand.. you can get a sharpening jig to use in conjunction with a belt grinder/sander… a decent one is $25…

For less than $100 all in to buy the jig, belts, and sander… you can reliably put razor edges on hundreds upon hundreds of knives..
 

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Ive started carrying the Havalon knife with replacement blades-lightweight, sharp enough for caping and cheap to replace blades. Several versions available. I do have a couple fixed blade knives for heavy work and a bone saw.
I have my knives professionally sharpened when I get home.
Havalons are for rank amateurs! :ROFLMAO:
 
I'm a COB. I use arkansas stones.

 

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Havalons are for rank amateurs! :ROFLMAO:
And lazy asses like me. ;)

…but I tell you what, they do a hell of a job on birds of all shapes and sizes. Great for getting into tight spots.
 
Havalons are for rank amateurs! :ROFLMAO:

Thanks for making me fell good about myself this morning.
Havalons are great for filleting salmon!
 
I don’t use the guide they provide, I do it by eye and have a gauge for my axe that I use to verify edge angles.

I only have 3 fine kitchen knives; chef’s, paring and boning. All are forged high carbon D2 stainless steel.

I wish I had the need (and time) for a Tormek T8 to put razor sharp blades on all my knives consistently.

View attachment 589963
Hi BeeMa My TormekT8, is what I use for my personal knives. No one dare to touch it except to add water.

Lon
And lazy asses like me. ;)

…but I tell you what, they do a hell of a job on birds of all shapes and sizes. Great for getting into tight spots.
 
The last time that I used a Havalon I lost the blade inside a javelina when I reached inside the body cavity to cut the windpipe. I found the blade when I finished skinning it and cleaned the body cavity out.

Any razor knife that looses a blade as easy as that one came off isn't going to make it for me. This is one place that the Outdoor Edge razor knife is 200% better than the Havalon.
 
The last time that I used a Havalon I lost the blade inside a javelina when I reached inside the body cavity to cut the windpipe. I found the blade when I finished skinning it and cleaned the body cavity out.

Any razor knife that looses a blade as easy as that one came off isn't going to make it for me. This is one place that the Outdoor Edge razor knife is 200% better than the Havalon.
Damn, that sucks but it’s never been my experience with the three that I’ve owned. All of them require a leatherman to remove the blade for replacement. Any chance you didn’t pull the blade into place and snap over the safety tab?
 

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