Where to begin?

[NoStepOnSnek]

I have an 8mm Turkish Mauser that I got from my uncle a little while back. I wouldn’t mind keeping the rifle as is, but upon inspecting the bore it seems like the rifling may be shot. I still need to take it to a gunsmith to verify.

If it’s shot, I plan to use the action to make a custom rifle. Calibers I’m considering are 458WM and 30-06, but I’m open to suggestions. Wouldn’t mind 375 Ruger if it will fit in the action.

So where do I begin?
How much should I be looking to spend?
Is this something I can do with a YouTube video or is it something I need to commission to someone?

Other things to consider is I don’t want to touch the markings on the receiver and I would prefer to keep the bolt straight, both which limit my optics.

Thanks for any information

 

[USMA84DAB]

Having done a few of exactly what you are thinking about, here are some skinned knees you won't have to get yourself -

The '38 Turk is a full length (.30-06) action. All 3 cartridges should be doable. You may need to tweak the feed rails for the .458WM or .375 Ruger. Be very careful/patient/methodical making very minor passes with a file on these. If you go to far you have to weld back the metal - then you get into temper problems, and weld doesn't file the same, etc..

The .30-06 would be the easy button - you can get a pre-chambered barrel for Mausers from Brownells, screw it in, check headspace to be sure, get the stock you want, and Bob's your uncle! Then you just need to stamp the barrel .30-06.

The other two will be hard to find in a pre/short chambered barrel. They probably require a rifle smith to thread and chamber barrels. I have done several short chambered barrels with a finish reamer and headspace gauges - a rifle smith was amazed at how smooth my chamber turned out - slow, steady meticulous - hand turn the reamer one revolution, pull it out, blow out the barrel with the air hose, snake the bore, check the headspace. Repeat until the bolt handle drops into place.

Without drilling and tapping screws into the barrel - and nearly all barrels are not contoured for this action to be taken - they are too tapered/not enough metal left - you cannot affix a scout rail to the barrel such that it will stay put. I know. I have no confidence in the scout rail mounts that replace the rear iron sight - way too spindly.

The bolt remaining straight means no scope, which you also determined with your choice to leave the area over the chamber original. That only leaves you the issue iron sights, or an aperture Williams sight that requires two holes in the side of the rear of the action. Well, now that I think of it, there is a firing pin aperture that goes for $300 also.

Hope this helps.

 

[NoStepOnSnek]

Having done a few of exactly what you are thinking about, here are some skinned knees you won't have to get yourself -

The '38 Turk is a full length (.30-06) action. All 3 cartridges should be doable. You may need to tweak the feed rails for the .458WM or .375 Ruger. Be very careful/patient/methodical making very minor passes with a file on these. If you go to far you have to weld back the metal - then you get into temper problems, and weld doesn't file the same, etc..

The .30-06 would be the easy button - you can get a pre-chambered barrel for Mausers from Brownells, screw it in, check headspace to be sure, get the stock you want, and Bob's your uncle! Then you just need to stamp the barrel .30-06.

The other two will be hard to find in a pre/short chambered barrel. They probably require a rifle smith to thread and chamber barrels. I have done several short chambered barrels with a finish reamer and headspace gauges - a rifle smith was amazed at how smooth my chamber turned out - slow, steady meticulous - hand turn the reamer one revolution, pull it out, blow out the barrel with the air hose, snake the bore, check the headspace. Repeat until the bolt handle drops into place.

Without drilling and tapping screws into the barrel - and nearly all barrels are not contoured for this action to be taken - they are too tapered/not enough metal left - you cannot affix a scout rail to the barrel such that it will stay put. I know. I have no confidence in the scout rail mounts that replace the rear iron sight - way too spindly.

The bolt remaining straight means no scope, which you also determined with your choice to leave the area over the chamber original. That only leaves you the issue iron sights, or an aperture Williams sight that requires two holes in the side of the rear of the action. Well, now that I think of it, there is a firing pin aperture that goes for $300 also.

Hope this helps.

Definitely does. Thank you

 

[Ontario Hunter]

If that rifle is still in military configuration, you should DEFINITELY consider selling it and buying yourself another donor action. Those old military rifles are bringing crazy prices. You might be able to sell it for $1500+ while most spoertized Mausers go for $300-$600.

 

[NoStepOnSnek]

If that rifle is still in military configuration, you should DEFINITELY consider selling it and buying yourself another donor action. Those old military rifles are bringing crazy prices. You might be able to sell it for $1500+ while most spoertized Mausers go for $300-$600.

Yeah the only other I have is a post-64 model 70 in 30-06 but it was my grandads so feel weird altering it

 

[Ontario Hunter]

Yeah the only other I have is a post-64 model 70 in 30-06 but it was my grandads so feel weird altering it

I think he would be thrilled if you took his gun and put your mark on it. My dad sporterized this Springfied in 1962 and I inherited it two years later when he built another one for himself. Since then everything has been replaced or modified but the receiver and bolt (I hunted hard with it). Barrel, stock, mounts, rings, scope, and safety all replaced. Follower, bolt shroud, and striker were modified. Iron sights added when I changed the barrel in 2021. Dad would have been very interested in all those changes. He would have been right in the middle of it with me. Lost him in 1999 when he was my age so he only saw the stock changed after a horse wreck broke the one he put on it in 1981.

 

[NoStepOnSnek]

I think he would be thrilled if you took his gun and put your mark on it. My dad sporterized this Springfied in 1962 and I inherited it two years later when he built another one for himself. Since then everything has been replaced or modified but the receiver and bolt (I hunted hard with it). Barrel, stock, mounts, rings, scope, and safety all replaced. Follower, bolt shroud, and striker were modified. Iron sights added when I changed the barrel in 2021. Dad would have been very interested in all those changes. He would have been right in the middle of it with me. Lost him in 1999 when he was my age so he only saw the stock changed after a horse wreck broke the one he put on it in 1981.
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That’s a fair point. Do you have any recommendations for barrel makers? McGowen is the first one coming up but don’t have any experience with this stuff

 

[Ontario Hunter]

I rebarreled the Springfield during COVID. No one was making barrels. I found another military sporterized military barrel on ebay for a good price and took a chance. It was very good.

Lilja of Plains, MT made the barrel for my 404 Jeffery on a Czech 98 Mauser. It had to be threaded, reamed, cut, crowned, and mounted by a gunsmith. A thousand bucks altogether.

 

[thoma018]

Douglas Barrels will sell and install/headspace a barrel of your choice for less than 700.00

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Buy a box of ammo and shoot it. I bet it shoots as well as you can with the irons.
If it’s shot and you want to keep the bolt straight, meaning no scope, I’d have a gunsmith turn a new barrel to the original profile and drop it back into the military stock.
In which case do whatever caliber you want. 308 would be easy to feed.

 

[FlyGuy]

If a new barrel is needed, why not stick to an 8x57?
Great cartridge!!!

 

[MS 9x56]

I have an 8mm Turkish Mauser that I got from my uncle a little while back. I wouldn’t mind keeping the rifle as is, but upon inspecting the bore it seems like the rifling may be shot. I still need to take it to a gunsmith to verify.

If it’s shot, I plan to use the action to make a custom rifle. Calibers I’m considering are 458WM and 30-06, but I’m open to suggestions. Wouldn’t mind 375 Ruger if it will fit in the action.

So where do I begin?
How much should I be looking to spend?
Is this something I can do with a YouTube video or is it something I need to commission to someone?

Other things to consider is I don’t want to touch the markings on the receiver and I would prefer to keep the bolt straight, both which limit my optics.

Thanks for any information

A word of caution, the only reliable way to tell if the rifling is shot out is to shoot it. If it still groups satisfactorily then you have your answer. If you see keyholing or it shoots patterns instead of groups, the barrel is bad.

 

[MS 9x56]

If a new barrel is needed, why not stick to an 8x57?
Great cartridge!!!

Or you could have JES bore it out to 9.3x 57 or 9.3x62.

 

[450 Dakota]

7x57, 338-06, 6.5x55 a few options

 

[Ray B]

It doesn't note which Turkish Mauser action. The '03s were sold by Century about 40 years ago and had different dimension regarding floorplate screws, magazine well and feed ramp- to the extent that my old friend the late CP Donnelly refused to work on them. As for a current barrel maker, the old Harry McGowen barrels are great but I have heard that since his passing the quality has dipped. My preference would be Lilja.

 

[coreydb]

Consider 30.06. Don't have to change the bolt face. Barrels are numerous and all decent. E.R. Shaw is one step above OEM, Shilen, Lothar Walther, then into your high end barrels; Krieger, Bartlein, Douglas, Hart, the list goes on....