What to do with another Siamese Mauser

[BlueFlyer]

When I bought my first Siamese Mauser, it arrived without an extractor.
In my searching for an extractor I found this complete action for AU$200, how could I resist! I then managed to modify another extractor to fit the 416WSM, so I had a spare Siamese Mauser action - what to do?
The action had previously been modified for 45/70, the bolt face opened to .610" and the RH feed rail relieved to allow the bigger rim to feed. I have a 45/70 on a Martini Enfield so don't need another.
With the modifications done to the action all the WSMs are out, but it is perfect for any 348W based cartridges. I have always been interested in the 333 Jeffery, and it would fill a gap between my 280AI and 9.3X64B.
I got PTG to grind up a set of 338-348Ackley Improved reamers.
Sprinter #3 contour 25" long barrel
Rodger Vardy walnut blank - machined to the same contour as my 416WSM.
Now I just have to get all the bits together.

 

[Sarg]

I found a set of .33 WCF Winchester dies in a box of dies I bought & thought it might be a cool build on a bolt or single shot ?

Oh should have read that better, your already doing a .338 on the .348Win case ?

 

[Ontario Hunter]

40-60 Marlin (aka 40-65 Winchester). 45-70 cases can be necked down to 40 caliber. Doesn't somebody make a 40 caliber bullet for big bore or handgun? Finding a reamer might be tricky. I'm sure someone could make a 40 caliber barrel. It would be a helluva challenging project but the end product might be a 404 in disguise. Maybe even better. Something between 404 and 375. Perhaps too close to 405 WCF to really make a difference? I actually have an 1881 Marlin in 40-60 and an Ideal tong tool for reloading. The tool is 40-65 and it casts a slug that's a bit too small diameter. Accuracy not good. I should slug that barrel and have a proper bullet mold made. Yeah, I'll do that this winter. It's a gun designed to kill buffalo and Plains Indians. Wonder what point creep is needed for drawing a tag these days?

 

[BlueFlyer]

I found a set of .33 WCF Winchester dies in a box of dies I bought & thought it might be a cool build on a bolt or single shot ?

The .33WCF would work perfectly in a Siamese mauser, the .338-348AI is basically a rimmed version of the 338WSM, so a little more poke that the 33WCF. I hope to be able to duplicate the 333Jeffery ballistics.

 

[Sarg]

40-60 Marlin (aka 40-65 Winchester). 45-70 cases can be necked down to 40 caliber. Doesn't somebody make a 40 caliber bullet for big bore or handgun? Finding a reamer might be tricky. I'm sure someone could make a 40 caliber barrel. It would be a helluva challenging project but the end product might be a 404 in disguise. Maybe even better. Something between 404 and 375. Perhaps too close to 405 WCF to really make a difference? I actually have an 1881 Marlin in 40-60 and an Ideal tong tool for reloading. The tool is 40-65 and it casts a slug that's a bit too small diameter. Accuracy not good. I should slug that barrel and have a proper bullet mold made. Yeah, I'll do that this winter. It's a gun designed to kill buffalo and Plains Indians. Wonder what point creep is needed for drawing a tag these days?

If your asking about drawing a Tag for a Plains Indian, I’m pretty sure the are off license & protected species in the US ?

Not sure on Canada but I suspect similar or even higher status ?

 

[BlueFlyer]

I clocked up the first 150mm of barrel bore to be concentric with the lathe axis. then went around to the muzzle end with the indicator found the point of maximum runout. No barrel is perfectly straight so you have to work with what you get. The best setup is to have the point of maximum runout at the muzzle on the top side. Then the barrel is shooting up rather than left, right or down. Then back at the breach end put a pop mark so you know where to line the barrel up to the scope mount screw holes (top of the action)
After cutting the threads, this is where the pop mark finished relative to the action mount screw hole.

It was about 1/5 of a turn out. To get it lined up I needed to take 0.36mm off the barrel shoulder (the thread pitch is 14tpi, 0.36 = 25.4mm divided by 14 X .20).
This is where I ended up, with the final rotational alignment for when I do the final torque on the barrel.

 

[Sarg]

I clocked up the first 150mm of barrel bore to be concentric with the lathe axis. then went around to the muzzle end with the indicator found the point of maximum runout. No barrel is perfectly straight so you have to work with what you get. The best setup is to have the point of maximum runout at the muzzle on the top side. Then the barrel is shooting up rather than left, right or down. Then back at the breach end put a pop mark so you know where to line the barrel up to the scope mount screw holes (top of the action)
After cutting the threads, this is where the pop mark finished relative to the action mount screw hole.
View attachment 776084
It was about 1/5 of a turn out. To get it lined up I needed to take 0.36mm off the barrel shoulder (the thread pitch is 14tpi, 0.36 = 25.4mm divided by 14 X .20).
This is where I ended up, with the final rotational alignment for when I do the final torque on the barrel.
View attachment 776085

What are you using as the protection on the barrel there bud ?

I left slight jaw marks on my .458 Brno last week when moving the front sight back.

Is it rubber O ring/donut ?

 

[BlueFlyer]

Is it rubber O ring/donut ?

A ring of 3mm alloy TIG wire. Provides a point contact area which allows the barrel to pivot axially without marking the barrel and get the bore lined up. Others have used thick copper wire, it just needs to be softer than the barrel.
At the other end, any tube that can be crushed by the spider screws will do. Using a piece of old steel broom handle for this setup!