Ruger m77 accuracy issues

Rear screw instructions were slightly over hand tight, not 45in/lbs.

65, 45, just over hand tight. Your rifle does have three screws on the bottom, correct?
Yes, I meant the middle screw. When i said rear, i meant the rear of the 2 action screws. This is the one just in front of the trigger guard.

Some quick Google searching for the parts leads me to understand this problem is maybe not uncommon.
 
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Yes, I meant the middle screw. When i said rear, i meant the rear of the 2 action screws. This is the one just in front of the trigger guard.

Some quick Google searching for the parts leads me to understand this problem is maybe not uncommon.
Man I hate that happened. I’m sure it’ll be an easy fix, but what a pain to deal with.
 
Well I've gone and made things worse :ROFLMAO:
I was tinkering at the range and thought I'd try the torque screw recommendations, front screw i got to 65 in lbs but trying to get 45 on the rear action screw the trigger guard metal broke. Now I'm no gunsmith guys, but I thought i could torque a screw! Any ideas where i went wrong?

I will note, the screws had some wear on them like they've been subjected to some amateur smithing before (gun was bought used). And both action screws were not very tight at all to begin with.
Either way, I'm now shopping for a trigger guard.
View attachment 774847
More like 30-35 max end.

But my advice is get a gunsmith to glass and pillar bed the stock
It will provide solid lock up for your action screws
 
Nice work that’s classic Ruger M77 troubleshooting.

Free floating the barrel plus relieving the mag box so it doesn’t bind the action is a common fix on these. Glad it cleaned up to 1-1.25" groups; that’s solid for a factory .30-06. Now go hunt with confidence.
 
Please explain the original problem. Is the magazine box too tall and then it flexes the action - and I assume the bottom metal as well judging by the broken trigger guard ?
 
Well I've gone and made things worse :ROFLMAO:
I was tinkering at the range and thought I'd try the torque screw recommendations, front screw i got to 65 in lbs but trying to get 45 on the rear action screw the trigger guard metal broke. Now I'm no gunsmith guys, but I thought i could torque a screw! Any ideas where i went wrong?

I will note, the screws had some wear on them like they've been subjected to some amateur smithing before (gun was bought used). And both action screws were not very tight at all to begin with.
Either way, I'm now shopping for a trigger guard.
View attachment 774847
I’m so sorry this happened!
I feel bad, as I never got back to you. Between the holiday weekend, and work I totally forgot to post pictures/info of what I did to my rifle.
 
Please explain the original problem. Is the magazine box too tall and then it flexes the action - and I assume the bottom metal as well judging by the broken trigger guard ?
Yes, the magazine box is to tall. Once the action screws are tightened, they bind up the action.
You remove metal from the bottom of the magazine box, so the “tabs” near the action screws no longer touch the mag box.
 
Did you go thru the correct barrel break-in procedure back when it was new? That aids accuracy as well.
@Jack Stevens
I've never broken a barrel in in my life.
To me it's just a waste of time. If the barrel is any good it should shoot well from the start. When accuracy starts to fall off a little then I clean it and that barrel better shoot well again.
Even my son's 308 Howa was never run in and only gets cleaned every couple of hundred shots. That thing if I'm having a good day will lay down sub half moa groups but on average will consistently group three quarters of an inch.
Bob
 
@Jack Stevens
I've never broken a barrel in in my life.
To me it's just a waste of time. If the barrel is any good it should shoot well from the start. When accuracy starts to fall off a little then I clean it and that barrel better shoot well again.
Even my son's 308 Howa was never run in and only gets cleaned every couple of hundred shots. That thing if I'm having a good day will lay down sub half moa groups but on average will consistently group three quarters of an inch.
Bob
I think break ins kinda hyped.

Now a clean vs dirty barrel does perform differently.
 
I think break ins kinda hyped.

Now a clean vs dirty barrel does perform differently.
@farmer_john
Some of my rifles haven't been cleaned in a couple of hundred rounds and still hold sub moa or much less. CFE223 is great for maintaining a copper free bore in my Whelen.
Bob
 
I have not read through all the comments but for a basic list for the Ruger m77 that I’ve done to all mine:
-Pillar bed front and rear screw locations
( brownels sells the front pillar)
-bed the action ( some barrels like the chamber supported, some do not. )
-Trigger job or a Timney
-free float barrel with 2- $1.00 bills
-magazine box has free play when torqued down, this box needs to be in straight, it will go in alittle crooked and will bind if not paid attention to.
-torque action screws ( personally once everything is bedded I do the factory 95 in pounds up front, BUT I put the action in and make sure it’s sitting level, then I will start the front and rear screws and alternate back and forth up to 50” pounds so the action isn’t torque all the way in one location first like Ruger says to.
Once at 50” pounds at both then do the front to 95” pounds.
You can play with this number if you want from 50” pounds on up.
The center screw I do by hand until snug.
My rugers all can shoot 1 moa with all sorts of ammo, my smaller calibers 25-06 will shoot 0.5” moa.
And I’m just a hunter not a bench shooter.
I’ve legit done this on every m77 I have and they never disappoint. Old , new , doesn’t matter.
 

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Stnelson wrote on Never Been's profile.
I want one of the stocks.
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SENT THIS PM YESTERDAY ..

I will take a set .. I would take more than one set if you have more.

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