Post it for sale in the classifieds here for a price that recognizes the potential costs to remove the porting. It will sell.
Thanks. I will take it to a member in the DFW area as I have told him I will let him look at it first. Thanks to all for the recommendations. Much appreciated. The process has been helpful and has made me realize I have others I should part with as well. I’m a better hoarder than seller.Post it for sale in the classifieds here for a price that recognizes the potential costs to remove the porting. It will sell.
The World needs more 450 Rigby's.Rebarrel it to a .450 Rigby!
Well the one fella that had one on here shot it a few times and then revised his life decisions.The World needs more 450 Rigby's.
I think the .700 RNE would be the next step for me. Everything else is a compromise. LolI currently own 1, and 1 more on the way.
The best part is, my 375H&H, 416 Rigby and .458 Lott aren't jealous of my 450 Rigby's.
Do you think that covering the slots with a barrel band front sight would work? Maybe get it cut back just enough delete two of the ports, then cover the other two.If it were me, I’d call Parkwest arms and ask what can be salvaged from your existing barrel. Here’s why: I think a quarter rib is $1400. I think the front ramp sight is $300. I think the barrel band swivel is $300. The barrel itself and the bluing is about $1000. Put all of that together and I believe if you sent the rifle back for a complete rebarrel you’d pay $3000.
However, They might be able to reuse all those parts, thus it might be $1200-$1500 for a new barrel, reblacking, and reinstall of all furniture.
You also have a really nice Africa model with great wood, extended magazine, and dual cross bolts. The 416 Rigby action is special, I’m not sure what calibers are compatible with the action and that bolt face.
If it were mine, I’d first figure out if it can be affordably changed to a 458 Lott or 404 Jeffery. It probably would easily become a 450 Rigby. Second question would be how much if any of the barrel furniture can be reused, lowering costs.
Having inner barrel turbulence right near the muzzle wouldn't seem a good risk for accuracy, and an expensive experiment just to gain another inch of barrel length. Let us know how it turns out if you ever try it.Do you think that covering the slots with a barrel band front sight would work? Maybe get it cut back just enough delete two of the ports, then cover the other two.
All my rifles are jealous of my .450 Rigby!I currently own 1, and 1 more on the way.
The best part is, my 375H&H, 416 Rigby and .458 Lott aren't jealous of my 450 Rigby's.
Do you think that covering the slots with a barrel band front sight would work? Maybe get it cut back just enough delete two of the ports, then cover the other two.
So true on the valuation component. It will live a happy life at 22” or with the ports at 24”.I think the gasses would blow the hooded ramp clean off the rifle or would bulge it over time.
There are gimmicks that could be done, but they are half-ass and expensive. You could sweat off the hood, cut back the barrel, thread the barrel, add a fake crown and another 2" of false barrel, sweat the front sight back on covering the seam. Lathe turn down everything. Re-black everything. In the end, you blew a lot of money and the 24" barrel still performs like a 21" barrel.
Rebarreling is my suggestion, particularly if all the furniture can be reused. A 416 Rigby is worth X, a 450 Rigby is worth 125% of X, a 404J is worth 150% of X.
So true on the valuation component. It will live a happy life at 22” or with the ports at 24”.