Mitch, did you send that rifle to Matrix or did previous owner tell you they had done the upgrades? I watched your video again and that gun cycles AWFULLY bad. On ALL rounds, not just the last one. It is hard for me to believe any competent gunsmith would send out a gun cycling that poorly. It's a liability issue. I have a video on you tube of me loading and cycling four rounds in my 98 Mauser 404. I'll see if I can find it on here. The bolt should close almost effortlessly. It looks to me like ALL rounds in your rifle are having trouble getting onto the bolt face. It's at the point where they make the final jump onto the bolt face where bolt is sticking when cycled forward. Remove your bolt. Now, attempt to push a cartridge onto the bolt face. The rim should slide up under the claw relatively easily. If it requires effort to get it started and snaps onto the bolt face, the extractor needs to be tuned. You should be able to tell where the carving in claw needs to be done. As I showed you in a previous post, with bolt removed the loaded cartridge should just BARELY stay on the bolt face. Another issue I had with my Mauser build was the extractor had way too much spring tension. I couldn't remove extractor from the bolt without prying it off with a screwdriver. They are designed to release with just finger pressure. Consequently, rims were not jumping onto the bolt face efficiently and cycling was rough. Snap-over was also impossible. Because 404 has gentle sloping shoulder and no belt, everything must be perfect with extractor and loading dies or the bolt will shove the cartridge up too far in the chamber instead of the claw snapping over on the rim of a round dropped in the chamber. And snap-over is important to me because my 404 is a dangerous game rifle with only four round capacity. In the unlikely event I put four bullets into a buffalo and he's still coming, I want to be able to throw a round in the open action and close it to fire without messing with magazine loading. I figured my extractor was probably not original equipment (Czech military rifle with extractor stamped with an anchor). I removed it and reshaped (bending) until the spring tension was reduced enough for me to be able to remove the extractor from bolt with just finger pressure (go online and look at video of Mauser bolt disassembly - all CRF employ the same extractor design and removed the same way). What a difference that adjustment made in cycling! Cartridges almost glide onto bolt face. I have test cycled thousands of rounds, both from the magazine and snap-over, with no issues (except RWS brass which has inconsistent rim thickness and won't snap-over consistently - 404 is finicky! ... and RWS brass is crap).
