Consensus on Length of Pull

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Well I just acquired the missing link in my battery of left hand CZ's, so I've been trying to figure out what I want to do to really make them a "set". The first and most obvious thing that came to mind while handling each rifle back to back was making the LOP consistent across the 3, and thus started a long and convoluted journey of what length to settle on.

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I started with what I already knew, which is that the LOP is measured from the front of the trigger blade where your finger rests, in a straight line to the back of the recoil pad, and here were the results:

550-14 & 1/8
527-13 & 7/8
452-13 & 3/8

Obviously the butt pads/plates were all different thicknesses so I decided to measure from the blade to where the wood ended to see what I had to work with while figuring out what thickness of pad to go with.

550-13 & 1/4
527-13 & 1/4
452-13 & 1/8

Handling the rifles, the 452 definitely feels short, the 527 feels great, and the 550 also feels good. Part of the difficulty is that they each wear a different type of sighting system, and to confuse me more the triggers all have slightly different shapes (the 527 the most so). So that got me wondering why we measure from the blade when the distance from the pad to the grip seems like it would be more critical. So I did that, measuring from the front of the grip cap (this measures 1.5x2" on all 3 guns) in a straight line to the back of the pad.

550-10 & 3/8
527-10 & 1/4
452- 10 even

What does that mean? Does it even matter? I didn't (and still don't) know so I decided to look for some people with intimate knowledge of stocks. Here is what I found.

HS Precision advises you determine rifle stock fit by getting a comfortable grip on the stock where your hand would normally rest while firing, and holding it against your forearm with the elbow at 90 degrees and hand upturned toward the ceiling. Ideal fit is when the end of the recoil pad nestles comfortably in the pit of your elbow.

Boyd's recommends measuring from the front of the trigger blade where your finger rests while firing, back toward the butt 5.75". Then, standing with the shoulders at a 45 degree angle to the target, mount the rifle as you would if you were about to fire and mark where the tip of your nose lands. Ideal fit is achieved when the tip of your nose lands at the 5.75" mark.

A number of other sources say to hold your arm much like you would during the HS Precision test, but to keep your palm and fingers flat and measure from your elbow pit to the first knuckle of your trigger finger. Ideal fit is when this measurement matches the distance from the front of the trigger blade to the back of the recoil pad.

Lastly I spoke with a very experienced stockmaker from England, with decades of experience, working with renowned gun builders such as Holland & Holland. Unsurprisingly, his was the most nuanced (and to me, logical) response. He was of the opinion that LOP measurements based on anatomy only really applied to shotguns for skeet/wing shooting, where you have a relatively consistent shooting posture (always standing) and intuitive pointibility/swingability was paramount (target is always moving). He thinks the most important thing is how the rifle feels in use, and thought most Americans tend to go with shorter than they may otherwise enjoy.

I am really quite amazed at how different the 527 and 550 feel with such a close LOP measurement and weight. I suspect the 527 feels a touch better simply because the stock isn't as massive as the 550. I've got a lot of experimenting to do before I decide where each stock will land, but I'm interested you know all of your thoughts on the subject.

-Bonus section-

Even though all rifles are 2014 manufacture (unplanned but a neat discovery!) and Turkish walnut stocks, the finishes differ significantly. I'm thinking seriously about stripping each, having an ebony forend tip and either steel or ebony grip cap added, then a hand rubbed oil finish and finishing off with a red Old English pad. They would really look like set then!
 
With rifles lop is not as critical unless it's overly short or overly long. More important is where your scope sits. Every time you pick up your rifle you should have a full view thru the scope. If you have to move your head like a chicken pecking corn the scope is not positioned proper. Second for those of us in Western Canada where Deer season might be 0degrees F or colder and we are dressed like the Michelin Man makes a big diffrence than hunting in a shirt only at 80 plus in Tanzania.
 
Lastly I spoke with a very experienced stockmaker from England, with decades of experience, working with renowned gun builders such as Holland & Holland. Unsurprisingly, his was the most nuanced (and to me, logical) response. He was of the opinion that LOP measurements based on anatomy only really applied to shotguns for skeet/wing shooting, where you have a relatively consistent shooting posture (always standing) and intuitive pointibility/swingability was paramount (target is always moving). He thinks the most important thing is how the rifle feels in use, and thought most Americans tend to go with shorter than they may otherwise enjoy.
The above is where it’s at. Also @Graham Hunter post is spot on imo you don’t need cast. Most LOP for the average rifleman should be 14” you can adjust your comb height for eye alignment as you have done with the second rifle.
 
I shoot tighter and more consistent groups with a riflestock that fits me well, than with one that is too short for me.

One of those ungainly neoprene recoil pads with foam inserts, come in handy for experimenting with different lengths of pull, as you can add or remove foam pads and thereby alter the length of pull.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=neoprene+rifle+slipon+recoil+pads
 
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NECG has that neat QD pad setup, which seems like it would be a good solution to the LOP/weather interplay situation but I don't know that I want to invest in it for all 3 rifles, plus I'm a little leary of the QD durability aspect. Does anyone know how thier pads compare to Pachmayr in recoil reduction? I know Silvers don't help much but are really durable.

I had a similar thought about the slip on pads. That would allow me to try a variety of lengths with different shooting positions and types of dress.
 
Just be weary of the slip on pads tarnishing the woods finish if left on and stored after getting moisture in there.
 
Close your eyes, quickly mount the 550, then open your left eye. How does the gun mount quickly? Is it catching on your shirt? = LOP too long. Do the iron sights line up? Or are you looking up the barrel? = front sight high = short LOP. Front sight low or buried? = long LOP. I would get the LOP worked out with iron sight rifle, then make the rest of the rifles match it. Then adjust scope eye relief for each of them so crosshairs and full field of view pop up automaticalky when gun is mounted quickly eyes closed and then open as above.

The old formula for measuring arm length isn't carved in stone. Long neck or slightly humped posture can make a difference that formula does not account for.
 
With rifles lop is not as critical unless it's overly short or overly long. More important is where your scope sits. Every time you pick up your rifle you should have a full view thru the scope. If you have to move your head like a chicken pecking corn the scope is not positioned proper. Second for those of us in Western Canada where Deer season might be 0degrees F or colder and we are dressed like the Michelin Man makes a big diffrence than hunting in a shirt only at 80 plus in Tanzania.

Concur...

As long as my rifles are all +/- about 1" of each other.. I dont get to wrapped around the axel on LOP.. My "proper" length of pull is pretty long (Im 6'4" with ape length arms).. so no factory rifle is really correct for me.. but most I can make work just fine.. I typically just have the scope mounted a little further forward than most people in order to get a nice clean picture through the optic..

I also shoot year round.. and in a variety of locations.. I might be in a T-shirt today... and in 4 layers of thick, high alpine, cold weather gear tomorrow.. which impacts me more than anything else honestly..
 
I know this doesn’t help but this is one of the great benefits of having a Blaser R8.

Lots of good advice on how to proceed but ultimately the decision (with all the variables to consider) will lie with you.

I wish you the best of luck and keep us updated.
 
I know this doesn’t help but this is one of the great benefits of having a Blaser R8.

Lots of good advice on how to proceed but ultimately the decision (with all the variables to consider) will lie with you.

I wish you the best of luck and keep us updated.
BeeMaa. I just came across this thread. Why does it matter if you have an R8 re LoP? I have an R8 and it's about 14.5" for the Professional stock. I just ordered some spacers from EuroOptic and a larger recoil pad from NECG. Hope to get some length and some cushioning for the .375 H&H. I find most standard stocks seem to be a tad too short for me.
 
BeeMaa. I just came across this thread. Why does it matter if you have an R8 re LoP? I have an R8 and it's about 14.5" for the Professional stock. I just ordered some spacers from EuroOptic and a larger recoil pad from NECG. Hope to get some length and some cushioning for the .375 H&H. I find most standard stocks seem to be a tad too short for me.
It matters because of exactly what you stated...spacers are readily available. I added two of the spacers for the Professional to fit me properly. I'd like to see some pictures of your final setup.
 

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