Best CLP? Video for your consideration

[BeeMaa]

I'm not a fan of cleaning in general, never have been. If there is anyway I can get it done in a more efficient manner or do less cleaning, that's what I want. For this reason I have used the Break-Free brand CLP for just about everything, believing it to be the "best"...up until now. I ran across a video this morning of a guy doing a thorough and reasonably scientific evaluation of several types of CLP. I'd like to know what the membership has to say about this. Personally, I could be changing my brand to Clenzoil CLP as it seems to perform the best with the exception of the -40F test. For the number of times I'd be hunting in -40F weather I can make an exception and change it up as necessary. Let me know what you think.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

In my opinion CLP (clean, lubricate, protect) Is great for out in the field, where it is handy to have one bottle. I have found CLP to lack in all 3 departments. On a workbench I see no reason not to have a dedicated product for each of the 3 jobs.

 

[TucsonFX4]

In my opinion CLP (clean, lubricate, protect) I’d great for out in the field, where it is handy to have one bottle. I have found CLP to lack in all 3 departments. On a workbench I see no reason not to have a dedicated product for each of the 3 jobs.

I agree completely. In my very unscientific tests, I’ve found the all in one products take way more time to clean a dirty chamber and barrel because I’m soaking and scrubbing forever, trying to finally get to clean patches coming out.

 

[BeeMaa]

I've used (and still do use) Hoppe's #9 for general cleaning, Gun Slick copper solvent foam and Rem Oil for lube in addition to the CLP Break-Free...so I'm not throwing the baby out with the bathwater. I'm just looking for something that can do most of the work most of the time without much fuss. And yes, mostly for field use as well as a quick cleaner when returning from the range. Not intended as a deep clean product.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Some guys say automatic transmission fluid is a very good CLP. Stinks too much for me.

 

[CoElkHunter]

Very interesting testing. Thanks for sharing. I use Rem Oil mostly for lubrication and seldom clean my rifle barrels. I use Break Free lubricant on my Glocks with one drop in six specific locations according to a Glock armorer.

 

[Tanks]

I like Ballistol for general purpose though the smell is off-putting for females.

 

[BeeMaa]

I like Ballistol for general purpose though the smell is off-putting for females.

My wife LOVES the smell of Hoppe's #9! Makes me chuckle when I hear her from the other room say "Are you cleaning your guns? I have a project for when you get done".

 

[lockingblock]

Break Free is generally optimal for hunting rifles and storage.


The current CLP in DoD is much thinner and has more solvent. It evaporates quicker. It’s made by Radco. You can get it on Amazon…but it’s not better.

 

[zephyr]

IMHO....For most of us what ever works best for us works fine. If youre like me you have a shelf full of oils and cleaners and our usage will not be adversely effected by the choices we make. Unless we are running our guns in single digit temps or colder it is amazing how quickly an action or sliding part can gum up with a lubricant not meant for extreme temps

 

[Edster]

I like Ballistol for general purpose though the smell is off-putting for females.

Yep that is a true statement. My wife hates the smell of it.

 

[Aussie_Hunter]

That's actually a really interesting video. I mostly use G96, I have found it provides better corrosion protection than Ballistol and also seems to attract less dust. Corrosion protection is what I look for in a product since I live in the tropics. I might give Clenzoil a go if I can get my hands on some in Australia, because trying to stop corrosion in the tropics is a nightmare.

 

[Nevada Mike]

I clean my guns ASAP after shooting. Use Hoppe's No. 9 and/or Shooter's Choice to clean. I use a light coat of sperm oil to lube and protect the bore.

 

[cajunchefray]

I use Hoppes # 9 when I have a buildup of powder fouling, then a dry patch in the bore action area, then a thin layer of Breakfree CLP.

I fire a fouling shout before testing accuracy at the range.
As I live in a humid climate, I always wipe down my weapons with Breakfree CLP for storage.

 

[Ridge Runner]

I use Hopped to clean my firearms and then dry all the metal as best I can, even using Q-tips/cotton swabs to clean and dry the hard to get to areas.

All external parts: complete bolt assembly, barrel, inside and out of the receiver where there is metal to metal contact gets a light to rather generous amount of preferably Ox yoke Bore Butter. Depending on firearm and how long between range trips. Muzzleloading firearms get a heavier coating.

The internal bolt and bolt parts get a very super light coating of light oil, or preferably Brownell's water displacing oil. To minimize carbon build up and dust/dirt collecting in and around the bolt.

The only bad thing which wasn't tested and why I no longer use Hoppe's as a firearm storage oil, is Hoppe's turns to "varnish", (for lavck of a better description), that gums up the firing pin in bolt guns (bolt action, pumps, semi and fully automatic firearms) often causing the firearm to malfunction or to be totally inoperative. Not so much but I have experienced that same varnish/gum to cause problems with the cylinder lock on revolver not fully operating properly.

 

[Ridge Runner]

That's actually a really interesting video. I mostly use G96, I have found it provides better corrosion protection than Ballistol and also seems to attract less dust. Corrosion protection is what I look for in a product since I live in the tropics. I might give Clenzoil a go if I can get my hands on some in Australia, because trying to stop corrosion in the tropics is a nightmare.

Not just in the tropics. Anywhere there is high humidity.

Try Bore Butter it may help in preventing rust where you are.

There is a place here, (probably more), the worse place I have experienced instant rust on firearms after a thorough cleaning and applying an extremely heavy coating of bore butter to my firearms just for overnight, as the next day they would be back on the range is Friendship, Indiana, USA. Seriously if a person has the patience to watch water boil on medium heat they have the patience to watch rust form on their firearm(s) at Friendship.

Everywhere else I have lived or traveled to or though bore butter has worked and for firearms that seldom see the range, bore butter is a great firearms rust preventive coating.

 

[Inline6]

I'm not sure what that test really proves, none of us are cycling our actions to the point that worst one will cause more damage than the best.

As far as cleaning goes it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. A general do it cleaner is not going to work with a heavy fouled copper barrel or a carbon ring in the throat. How many actually use a bore scope to see what is going on in your barrels? Lots of friends come to me saying their rifle is not shooting. Running a bore scope down it, more times than not you can spot the problem.

CLR (yes the stuff on tv) will make removing carbon effortless. ThorroClean is my go to for cleaning barrels, even over bore tech.

Protection and lubricant, 3 gunners running ARs hard, they will make their own from straight synthetic motor oil, transmission fluid, STP mixture. Have ran synthetic motor oil in an AR. Took a class two day 2800 rounds no issues. You just want something to lube and protect. We tend to over think things, when you look at motor oil, look what it must endure. YMMV

 

[CoElkHunter]

I'm not sure what that test really proves, none of us are cycling our actions to the point that worst one will cause more damage than the best.

As far as cleaning goes it really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. A general do it cleaner is not going to work with a heavy fouled copper barrel or a carbon ring in the throat. How many actually use a bore scope to see what is going on in your barrels? Lots of friends come to me saying their rifle is not shooting. Running a bore scope down it, more times than not you can spot the problem.

CLR (yes the stuff on tv) will make removing carbon effortless. ThorroClean is my go to for cleaning barrels, even over bore tech.

Protection and lubricant, 3 gunners running ARs hard, they will make their own from straight synthetic motor oil, transmission fluid, STP mixture. Have ran synthetic motor oil in an AR. Took a class two day 2800 rounds no issues. You just want something to lube and protect. We tend to over think things, when you look at motor oil, look what it must endure. YMMV

I wonder how kerosene would work for barrel cleaning? It’ll clean almost everything off automotive parts. An oil of some type would have to be applied to the bore afterwards to prevent corrosion.

 

[Inline6]

I wonder how kerosene would work for barrel cleaning? It’ll clean almost everything off automotive parts. An oil of some type would have to be applied to the bore afterwards to prevent corrosion.

It would okay for carbon, can not see it cutting copper.

 

[SaintPanzer]

The only bad thing which wasn't tested and why I no longer use Hoppe's as a firearm storage oil, is Hoppe's turns to "varnish", (for lavck of a better description), that gums up the firing pin in bolt guns (bolt action, pumps, semi and fully automatic firearms) often causing the firearm to malfunction or to be totally inoperative. Not so much but I have experienced that same varnish/gum to cause problems with the cylinder lock on revolver not fully operating properly.

I've had a similar problem with Frog Lube (the liquid kind, not the paste he had in the video). This was disappointing, as Frog Lube seems to be the only one where my wife tolerates the smell. I've taken to cleaning with Frog Lube, wiping it off, and then using RemOil when she's around. Otherwise I clean with Hoppes #9. My other option is to just stick with Frog Lube, but do a thorough cleaning before going out. Even gummed up, it prevents rust. On the other hand, if I'm using it daily, or weekly, it seem to work well. I'm happy to take it to the field, because I know I will be using/cleaning enough that it won't have time to gum up.

I, too, do not like the smell of Ballistol. I thought it would be "the Thing" for use on the old Luger, but there is better.

Back in my Machine Gunner days, we broke all the rules, and only used CLP if anyone was watching. To clean the piston on the M60E3, Easy Off oven cleaner worked a treat. We didn't use that on the rest of the gun, as there was a fine line between "cleaning" and "removing all the bluing". On the rest of the gun, we used carburetor cleaner, then a light coat of CLP. I had a friend who worked at a garage, and he was able to get me an "available only to the industry" product from Castle called "DragonFire". This fine product, in addition to being hell on carbon, left behind a dry lube. We always seemed to have fewer jams on guns that were regularly cleaned with that product.

The internet is a wonderful thing: I haven't thought of that stuff since George H. W. was the Big Guy, and yet it pulls right up in a search: https://www.barnesperformancecycles.com/products/castle®-dragon-fire™-carburetor-cleaner-14oz