Best Ballistic Software for Apple Macbook?

Nevada Mike

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Any opinions? Looking for software that will run on my Macbook, iPad, iPhone...

Thanks.
 

Shooter-Ballistics for a good basic program. One license runs on two of your devices. $10.00
I've used the Android version for about 15 years. I can link to the local (and nearby) airport for density altitude and temperature. Or I can get slightly better environmentals by blue-toothing to my basic Kestrel. It generally gets me to within about 0.1 or 0.2 mils (.25 to .5 MOA) elevation adjustment on our longest steel (785 yards).

Or you can just estimate the DA and temperature and be reasonably close.

Or you could buy one of the higher end Kestrels with two or three choices of software built-in for probably about $800, but check first to see how user friendly it is.

If you are a PRS shooter, you will want something more powerful than Shooter, but for a hunter or Very serious plinker, Shooter Ballistics works very well. (Shawn Kenney (sp) is the author.)
 
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Any opinions? Looking for software that will run on my Macbook, iPad, iPhone...

Thanks.
What are your goals? Are you long range shooting or possibly long range hunting? Competition, recreational or maybe looking at a long range school/class?

I'm not trying to stir the pot, you are welcome to do whatever you like (within the law of course) when it comes to shooting. It just makes a difference in what you may want in the future. Investing in a more expensive and compact option would be best for long range hunting. Having a Kestrel/phone that is specific to your scope so you can dope it properly is the key.

The Kesterl/phone can be ideal for this, but it is one more thing to carry on a hunt. If you are OK with that or are going to use it for a specific hunt, I believe it's a good choice. Mountain style hunting comes to mind like alpine sheep and goats. At the same time, mountain hunters are notorious for scrutinizing every ounce of weight they carry, and rightfully so. However for typical shots on a hunt in Africa where the expected range is less than 150 yards, it may be overkill...at least IMO.
 
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The Victory RF binocular laser rangefinder system incorporates a laser with an integrated real-time ballistics computer and on-board weather station. The consideration of all relevant factors coupled with user-based customization via the ZEISS Hunting App further ensures precisely placed shots from 10-2,500 yards away - time after time. The laser signals and atmospheric data received is computed within nano seconds to give you the appropriate, and accurate, shooting solution from a single press of a button. The Victory RF family offers a choice of four models: the RF 8 × 42 and 10 × 42 versions are most popular for general hunting and long-range hunting, as well as packing in, while the RF 8 × 54 and 10 × 54 models are best for maximizing light transmission into the twilight hours.

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I have Nightforce scopes with Zero stop on all my rifles. I take my Zeiss RF Bino’s and use them along with the Zeiss App. My recent Safari I used my .243 and my Bino’s to make relatively quick decisions on shots to 380 yards. I was comfortable shooting further if necessary.

I have DOPE in my Bino’s and Kestrel for my 300 RUM, .375 H&H, .243, and .22-250.

For example: I needed to reset my zero on my .375 H&H to 100 yards from 200 for a Croc hunt and was concerned about my DOPE on longer shots. I thought I would have used my .375 with solids on a Klipspringer or 270 grain Barnes TSX on other PG. I just changed the profile Zero in my App and updated the DOPE in my BINO’s. I ended up using my .243 on all the PG. I did shoot the Klipspringer at 200 yards with my .243 that had a 200 yard zero, so no need to check DOPE.

For me, it’s very easy to use the RF Bino’s, because they tell you in one button push (after you have the range) how many clicks from Zero you need to be (on my scopes) for a given distance .

I always have that DOPE with my RF Bino’s or Kestrel. They both have computers and ballistic solvers. They all (iPhone, Kestrel, and RF Bino’s) communicate with each other via Bluetooth in the field. The Bino’s are great because they solve your angle too! Up or Down… The distance given is your shooting distance.

The same equipment works whether I’m shooting 2,000 yards with my 300 RUM or shooting Prairie Dogs with my .22-250.
 
I am not looking to shoot at extreme distances. I need this for hunting shots to 500 yards with several of my rifles… 22-250, 7mm RM, 280 AI, 25-‘06, 308 Norma Magnum, and 375 H&H. This is plains and mountain hunting.
 
Damn @NIGHTHAWK and @Nevada Mike, you guys are reaching out there and shooting! I suppose "extreme" is subjective and has a different meaning for everyone.

Tell you the truth, for the distances I normally hunt (<200 yards) most game animals, a simple range card with the ballistics in my pocket or taped to the stock works best. I've found when the stakes are at the highest, the technology should be at its lowest...keep it simple. Staying in the MBPR and using simple holdover has worked well for me.

The ranges that you guys are shooting at are clearly next level and well out of my league. Best of luck with it.
 
I like Strelok and my son likes Applied Ballistics but we use those during load development, doping and truing up BC’s. For actual hunting a better choice would be a range finding optic that has a ballistics program built into it. There are several out there.

I use and like the G7 BR2. I used it on a elk hunt a couple of weeks ago. It ranged something like 585 yds gave me the drop, in this case mils, pressed the trigger and the elk dropped DRT.
 
I have a laser range finder with software to give corrected ballistic distances up to over 1000 yards. Not going to buy any more binoculars... I have Swaro 15 X 56 SLCs and Ziess 10 X 40 rubber armored (2 pairs). I want the software for developing reloads with my chrono and to create a simple card with elevation and basic windage correction up to 500 yards to carry for reference. I have enough stuff to hump over the hills.
 
I also have Strelok on my phone (probably not too current of a version). Don't use it much though - I'm like an old man at the Self checkout with it when trying to set up a new profile.

Shooter is easier (for me), but does take playing with it some until you learn the steps to do the basic defaults (inches or cm; Yards or Meters) and inputs such as Ballistic Coefficients, etc.

I would assume all popular ballistic programs would be similar in function, btw. Math is math. Some will get into the finer details such as correcting for minor elevation adjustments (in addition to horizontal drift) for a cross wind.

For shooting to 500 Yards you don't need a Kestrel. Knowing the actual temperature and Density Altitude when you chronograph is handy, however. See if your program will link to a local weather station,)

FWIW, the elevation at my club is about 5,500 feet. DA in the summer will be 7,000+ feet. In cool weather DA will seldom be below about 4,500 feet. (I've never checked a sub zero temps.) Seat of the pants estimates work fine. For printing range cards, I just use 5,000 feet and 59*F.
 
I tried a lot of the free apps for iPhone and settled on the Lapua one.

Suited my needs well for casual plinking - most of which is 22LR out to about 350 metres.
 
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I’m finding that what I’ve gleaned from 3 long range shooting schools and having the same scopes on all my rifles, makes hunting life much easier for me. I didn’t take my Kestrel with me to SA because my Bino’s have the DOPE in them for each rifle. The App is in my iPhone. Once you have it down, it’s golden.

I probably need to post about my shooting school experience, how I got there, and why it was a good investment for me. I’ve alluded to it in some of my posts, but it was a long road getting there…

**Side note: I don’t shoot a lot. But, I love hunting and I’m much more confident now that I have the right tools to effectively make good kill shots past 300 yards… At one point I was topped out at 330 yards and that didn’t include shooting at significant up or down angles.

I’m not trying to convince anyone, just sharing my experience. Again, “to each their own”.
 
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I probably need to post about my shooting school experience, how I got there, and why it was a good investment for me. I’ve alluded to it in some of my posts, but it was a long road getting there…

I’d be interested in hearing about your experience.
 
Kestrel linked to my Leica 3200.com is what I use in the field.

For Apple I have used shooter and applied ballistics.

If you want to shoot out to 500 now it will only get worse. Next thing you know you will want that 2k hit. Kestrel with the AB is where I would focus my money. You could also look at sig binos that will link to them. Your shooting solution will display in the glass.

@BeeMaa Mid range is out to 600 yards. Extreme counts when you start shooting pass 1k (not that I think it is Extreme).
 
Damn @NIGHTHAWK and @Nevada Mike, you guys are reaching out there and shooting! I suppose "extreme" is subjective and has a different meaning for everyone.

Tell you the truth, for the distances I normally hunt (<200 yards) most game animals, a simple range card with the ballistics in my pocket or taped to the stock works best. I've found when the stakes are at the highest, the technology should be at its lowest...keep it simple.

I never thought I could repeat a good shot on a 1,000 yard target as accurately as I’m able to. Hell, It didn’t seem attainable for me to even hit a 1,000 yard plate. But, the same day I shot 1,000, I was able to do it on a 2,000 yard target…

The most important thing for me was learning all the other necessary steps to make the progression from 400 yards to 2,000 yards using the same, rifle (MOA Rifles) 300 RUM, scope, ammo, RF Bino’s, Ballistic App, and under slightly changing conditions.

My rifle is a hunting rifle that was developed as part of a system… I use the same system with all my rifles, but with less concern for Extreme Long Range for my 375 H&H, .243, and/or my .22-250. I’m able to hunt with the same confidence and accuracy as I do with my 300 RUM. If I continue to do this, it’s logical that, I will continue to make ethical shots and kills on the animals I pursue.

With that said, I didn’t know I would hit a 2,000 yard target in 2 shots and then repeat it when I started. It was the lower range progression that was important for me. 100 yard increments from 400 to 2,000 yards.

So, to get those results I had to to do something I wasn’t used to doing. I had to invest in a rifle and system different than what I had, or known, and allow someone to teach me how to use it.

I don’t intend to hunt out to 1,000 yards, let alone 1,500! Knowing my hunting rifles, and my experience, will allow me to repeat accurate and predictable shots past 300 yards, in different conditions, is what matters to me.

600 yards is not a chip shot, but it seems unconcerning to me.

This is the rifle I use to shoot past a Mile:

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I haven’t used it on Safari in SA… Not even sure I will. I hunt, or intend to hunt, more with it in the states and/or other countries.
 
Here is a fairly informative video/review of the 300 RUM. Mine is left handed.



I met Bob Beck at SCI few years ago and after a little research I had MOA build a 300 RUM in LH. I also sent MOA my .243 Tikka LH, SAKO.375H&H LH, and a Rem .22-250 LH to customize and/or accurize and included mounting Nightforce Scopes with Zero Stops, development of loads, proof, and make custom rounds for. They captured all the DOPE and loaded it in my Kestrel, G7 RF, and at the time Leica Geovid RF Bino’s.

The original 300 RUM build came with a shooting school. 2 Days in Redmond Oregon.

I’m not affiliated with MOA Rifles, so if this video review or mention of them breaks any rules, please excuse me and delete it!
 

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