Bedding of a rifle

BigJohnx13

AH veteran
Joined
Jul 18, 2013
Messages
160
Reaction score
265
Media
7
Just a question. If a stock was bedded about 5 years ago and you need to remove the stock to have the rifle blued, do you need to re-bed the stock again or is it still sufficient to operate?
 
Properly bedded, I can't see where it would have any adverse effects. Should be no different than simply removing and replacing the barreled action for a cleaning. Others here with more experience may have better advice to offer.
 
Not a problem for a properly bedded rifle.
 
No problem, unless the rifle was bedded with questionable material. I use Devcon, and haven't had a bedding job go bad with age yet. A properly inletted and bedded rifle will not be damaged by repeatedly removing the action either.

The bluing itself will have no effect on the bedding job.
 
As others have posted, it won't make any difference if it's bedded properly. Use a torque screwdriver and torque the action screws to the same setting every time you remove the barreled action from the stock.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lcq
... Use a torque screwdriver and torque the action screws to the same setting every time you remove the barreled action from the stock.

Sorry I didn't even think of this one. @Hogpatrol is right. I've got a small fortune tied up in quite a few of these T-Handled units. They are worth the cost. Especially on very accurate Bench & Varmint Rifles.
 
For wood stocked rifles that you want to maintain accuracy and remain at or very close to "zero" after take down, I would suggest correctly done pillar bedding. I am anal about my bolt action hunting rifles and they are all pillar bedded. [I have HS Precision synthetics on a few but no worries because the HS Precision stock incorporates a pillar bedding system in its basic design.] I take my hunting rifles down regularly and every time I travel--- I treat the bolt action as a "take down". I re-tighten the action screws to witness marks on the bottom metal aligning to the screw heads. NEVER an issue of maintaining "zero" and accuracy.

As an aside, correct bedding of a heavy recoiling DG rifle is important not only for maintaining zero and best accuracy but it may also help prevent recoil induced stock damage over time. And, many DG rifle have the secondary recoil lug on the barrel which requires some extra thought and attention when bedding.
 
I just had a new rifle bedded and the results are amazing..Bargain in my case..
 
For wood stocked rifles that you want to maintain accuracy and remain at or very close to "zero" after take down, I would suggest correctly done pillar bedding. I am anal about my bolt action hunting rifles and they are all pillar bedded. [I have HS Precision synthetics on a few but no worries because the HS Precision stock incorporates a pillar bedding system in its basic design.] I take my hunting rifles down regularly and every time I travel--- I treat the bolt action as a "take down". I re-tighten the action screws to witness marks on the bottom metal aligning to the screw heads. NEVER an issue of maintaining "zero" and accuracy.

As an aside, correct bedding of a heavy recoiling DG rifle is important not only for maintaining zero and best accuracy but it may also help prevent recoil induced stock damage over time. And, many DG rifle have the secondary recoil lug on the barrel which requires some extra thought and attention when bedding.

The only wood stocks I have are on hunting rimfires. All of my other rifles have either H.S. Precision or Bell and Carlson synthetic stocks with aluminum bedding blocks. I found they are not 100% precision, have manufacturing tolerances that allow them to not re-seat to the same spot so I bed all of them and torque to 50 inch pounds.
 
The only wood stocks I have are on hunting rimfires. All of my other rifles have either H.S. Precision or Bell and Carlson synthetic stocks with aluminum bedding blocks. I found they are not 100% precision, have manufacturing tolerances that allow them to not re-seat to the same spot so I bed all of them and torque to 50 inch pounds.

The B&C claims a rigid alum skeleton as a base for bedding. I found them to be substandard and not rigid at all- a key design feature of a quality stock. IMO the HS Precision is much superior, albeit somewhat heavy. I don't believe an aftermarket stock exists that will match perfectly with any given barreled action. So yes, even the HS Precision may need some minor fitting and bedding for best results.
 
The B&C claims a rigid alum skeleton as a base for bedding. I found them to be substandard and not rigid at all- a key design feature of a quality stock. IMO the HS Precision is much superior, albeit somewhat heavy. I don't believe an aftermarket stock exists that will match perfectly with any given barreled action. So yes, even the HS Precision may need some minor fitting and bedding for best results.

Agree on the difference between the B&Cs and the H.S. Ps. I do prefer them and their extra weight with the heavy recoilers.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
64,497
Messages
1,420,420
Members
130,713
Latest member
CalebReymo
 

 

 

Latest profile posts

bigrich wrote on Bob Nelson 35Whelen's profile.
thanks for your reply bob , is it feasible to build a 444 on a P14/M17 , or is the no4 enfield easier to build? i know where i can buy a lothar walther barrel in 44, 1-38 twist , but i think with a barrel crown of .650" the profile is too light .
Duke1966 wrote on Flanders357's profile.
ok $120 plus shipping
teklanika_ray wrote on MShort's profile.
I have quite a bit of 458 win mag brass, most of it new. How much are you looking for?

Ray H
bigrich wrote on Bob Nelson 35Whelen's profile.
hey bob , new on here. i specifically joined to enquire about a 444 you built on a Enfield 4-1 you built . who did the barrel and what was the twist and profile specs ? look foward to your reply . cheers
 
Top