Anyone know a good revolver gunsmith?

[Wyatt Smith]

I just picked up my new S&W 28-2, while I was firing it today the cylinder would rub the breach end of the barrel causing it to bind. I cleaned it but the problem prevails. So as the title says who should I have work on it?

 

[small bore]

My S&W 629 has an issue and I'm also interested in finding a gunsmith for repair.

If no recommendations turn up I'll try calling Smith and Wesson and see about sending it back to them.

 

[CM McKenzie]

Bowens Classic Arms…. Maybe.

They are some of the best revolver guys I know of. I don’t know if they do repairs, or one off custom work only.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I have one trick I am goin to try first. The power custom shims that reduce end play. If that doesn’t fix it. I will continue the search. But I am open to any suggestions.

 

[fourfive8]

Sign of the times- revolver smiths are fewer and fewer. If you have some DIY spirit you might take it on yourself.

You’ll need some .001” feeler gauges covering maybe .001” through about .020”. If the cylinder to barrel FC gap is about .006” or less… there needs to be a little more gap as that is likely the cause of the problem. Unfortunately a revolver forcing cone- facing kit is well north of $300. Ugh. Unless you are a professional smith it is robbery. Thinking outside the box you can fabricate one using a 90’ end cutter and a short brass rod just under .357” dia. Cutters like the ones used for case trimming will work if they will fit, centered in bore line and still have clearance under the back strap. You may have to figure a threaded connection between the cutter head and the brass rod. Add an alum foil shim if desired to the brass rod to take up any excess windage in bore clearance - doesn’t need to be perfect alignment without runout but it makes everyone feel better. Stick rod through muzzle and attach cutter head to rod. Pull and turn to slowly shave from forcing cone face. Check frequently ‘til at desired clearance- usually .007” to .010” +/-. Clean any sharp ridge or roughness off inside edge of forcing cone with a little emery attached to end of rod. There shouldn’t be much if any and shooting will ablate it smooth anyway.

Good luck and just a thought

 

[Wyatt Smith]

My barrel cylinder gap is about .006 with the cylinder pushed to the rear. I am going to install the shims to move the cylinder to the rear and hopefully give me some more room.

 

[TOBY458]

Your cylinder crane could be warped. This can cause the cylinder to be out of alignment. The shims may help, but if it's warped it needs to be straightened.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

That could be @TOBY458. Like I said, if the shims don’t fix it. It above my pay grade and I will be on the search for a good smith.

 

[JimP]

Stop in at local gun shops and see who they recommend if you haven't already.

I know one in Denver but that would include you shipping your pistol

 

[Bullthrower338]

Cylinder and Slide

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Thanks guys. The help you provide is priceless.
I am thinking the end shake shims should fix it, it has .006 end shake. From what I have read. .003 is the cutoff.

 

[Monsai52]

Your M-28 has some excessive end play. A common problem and a very easy fix. If you don't want to send it out, try the shims that Wyatt Smith suggested. Under NO circumstances attempt to correct the problem by facing off the rear face of the barrel, that is not the problem, and will only lead you to a much more expensive repair. Decades ago I worked for a major S&W distributor and warranty center and we'd see this issue all the time.

Best regards,

 

[fourfive8]

Really hope a .001-.002” shim solves the binding issue. By far the easiest, most simple correction if it works.

IIRC, as an aside, the 28-2 model solved the loosening ejector issue by going to the left hand thread. I wouldn’t hazard a guess at the percentage of buggered knurling I’ve seen on those ejectors.

Let us know the outcome.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

I just picked up my new S&W 28-2, while I was firing it today the cylinder would rub the breach end of the barrel causing it to bind. I cleaned it but the problem prevails. So as the title says who should I have work on it?

@Wyatt Smith
If you want the job done properly you could always have a holiday to Australia and my gunsmith could do the job for you. Apart from that no.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

I have one trick I am goin to try first. The power custom shims that reduce end play. If that doesn’t fix it. I will continue the search. But I am open to any suggestions.

@Wyatt Smith
If shimming doesn't work you could bubba it and file a tenth of an inch off the back of the barrel
Ha ha ha

 

[JimP]

@Wyatt Smith
If you want the job done properly you could always have a holiday to Australia and my gunsmith could do the job for you. Apart from that no.

And what all kinds of hoops would he have to jump through to bring a pistol into your fine country?

 

[fourfive8]

Hey @Bob Nelson 35Whelen, That'll do it- me likes it!

The problem, at least the potential, IMO, is this revolver has some age and an unknown background. If the gap is too little or it has been "worked" on or "tuned" up or the barrel changed or the cylinder changed out or the crane tweaked or so on and so forth..., it is hard to say the real issue. No way I would be so 100% sure about the cause of the binding up! The reliable, long term functioning of a revolver is mechanically, fairly complex.

There are two measurements that work in concert with a revolver- headspace and gap. There has to be some of both but if either is out of spec or not in concert with each other, the results can jam or bind the cylinder. End shake is a generic term thrown around by many that may mean either cylinder-barrel gap and/or excess headspace or some combination of the two. Too much headspace and it may become progressively worse as the case head continues to hammer against the recoil plate. As that happens, the carbon ring inside the cylinder chamber begins to move rearward causing fresh rounds to move rearward upon loading and sooner or later their bases will start to drag and bind on the recoil plate while simultaneously the practical cylinder-barrel gap tightens as the cylinder is nudged forward. Too little headspace and there will be continual drag of case head against recoil plate. Too much cylinder-barrel gap and an annoyance of gas and particles will be ejected. Too little gap will cause inevitable drag or binding, especially with dirty ammo or lead accumulation or a combination of the two. If uneasy about how to attempt a fix past a simple minimal washer shim correction, I would not go further and certainly get it to a gunsmith who knows what they are doing with revolvers.

 

[jpr9954]

Another I might suggest is Gemini Customs. They came recommended to me by Grant Cunningham after he stopped accepting work.

 

[Challer]

Bowens Classic Arms…. Maybe.

They are some of the best revolver guys I know of. I don’t know if they do repairs, or one off custom work only.

They built a custom 616 for me - best revolver I own

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

And what all kinds of hoops would he have to jump through to bring a pistol into your fine country?

@JimP
Probably more than a circus dog doing tricks