9.3x62 Optics

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Not a criticism to anyone's choice intended, mostly just an observation based on a career in the military and now for the past 15 years taking multiple trips a year to Namibia and Botswana with a good number of friends/clients. I personally think too many people "over scope" with regards to magnification, not necessarily objective size, just magnification. Here's why, and please remember, this is just my opinion and everyone's mileage may vary.

First, unless you're hunting in the open savannas or western US where shot distance expectations are 200m and longer, there are very, very few times when "high" magnifications are "better" than lower settings. Kind of like a poster back in April said about his PH telling him to set his magnification at 2.5x and leave it there.

Second, the VAST majority of shots taken in Africa are taken standing and off shooting sticks. I've yet to have the pleasure of seeing anyone shoot standing, from shooting sticks on a 100m target with a scope set at 12x and shoot a smaller "group" than the same rifle, same scope, same ammo but, with a power setting of around 4x. What I've seen/experienced is far too many US hunters don't take enough practice time on sticks before going over and forget that magnification not only makes things appear "closer" but it also multiplies your heartbeat, wiggles and shakes and most guys end up "chasing the hairs" over-correcting/over-compensating making it worse.

Last observation is on what I call open "twisty" elevation turrets. Unless you have LOTS and LOTS of range time with them, I will just about guarantee if you bring a scope with one it WILL cost you an animal. Why do I say this? Again, the VAST majority of shots will be 200m or less. For the most part, if you dead nuts zero just about any caliber of rifle from 7x57 to 458WM spot on at 150m, you'll only be an inch or two high at 100m and an inch or two low at 200m. That 2MOA variation is better than most guys can shoot standing off shooting sticks. Next reason is, most guys who show up with the "twisty" scopes make just about the same mistakes every time: they twist it in the wrong direction, they forget to reset it to "zero" between stalks/animals taken and then in the excitement of the next animal, twist it some more and/or between stalks the twisty gets "bumped" on sticks/brush/bushes etc. Lastly, most guys take too long to do the twisty thing. They have to pull their eye(s)/head up off the game to look at the turret, think about direction and how much to adjust, cheek back on the stock and eye(s) back on the game and in the scope and by the time they start putting pressure on the trigger, the game bolts or the shot ends up either missing high/low or wounding the game and it's not recovered. I've witnessed all of these happen multiple times over.

K.I.S.S - Keep It Stupid Simple. Buy as good of glass as you can afford. Also, constantly changing magnification from 2x to 12x and all points in between and the huge change in body size between species can make it a bit difficult for less experienced African hunters to estimate hold over/hold under - Choose one power setting that YOU shoot well at off sticks and stay with it. Don't "over scope" for your shooting ability and or normal shooting distances and shooting positions. HUGE difference between shooting prone with a rest, sitting at a bench with a rest, standing off sticks and freehand.

To the OP's original question - I do have a 9.3x62 in a Ruger 77 African. It has an older Leupold VX-2c in 2-7x33. My personal preference on all scopes for the areas we hunt in Namibia and Botswana is 4x power to start with and then go DOWN to the lowest magnification for following up wounded game where close/quick freehand shot are to be expected.

Again, just my observations and opinions - feel free us utilize of flush as you see fit.
 
Last edited:
Thank you to everyone for your advice and input. I did decide on and receive a Noblex N5 1,2-6x24 Illuminated. Due covid, schedule etc... I have not been able to to sight my rifle in. I’m hoping to be able to tomorrow afternoon
 
That is why I bought my Vortex Crossfire II 3x12, Has that lower power with a wide view to get on target faster, just keep it on 3 to 4 setting and the turret adjustment to the zero at 200 yards at 100 yards will be 1.5 inches high , and using the 9.3x62mm for the terrain I would be hunting in mountain areas the higher setting would only be used if spotting something on like a opposite ridge.
 
Thank you to everyone for your advice and input. I did decide on and receive a Noblex N5 1,2-6x24 Illuminated. Due covid, schedule etc... I have not been able to to sight my rifle in. I’m hoping to be able to tomorrow afternoon

Sounds good for a 9.3.3x62...
 
If you opt for an exposed turret, it's a very good idea to go with something with a Zero Stop. This allows you to return to your Zero position without even looking - or in poor light.
 
Not a criticism to anyone's choice intended, mostly just an observation based on a career in the military and now for the past 15 years taking multiple trips a year to Namibia and Botswana with a good number of friends/clients. I personally think too many people "over scope" with regards to magnification, not necessarily objective size, just magnification. Here's why, and please remember, this is just my opinion and everyone's mileage may vary.

First, unless you're hunting in the open savannas or western US where shot distance expectations are 200m and longer, there are very, very few times when "high" magnifications are "better" than lower settings. Kind of like a poster back in April said about his PH telling him to set his magnification at 2.5x and leave it there.

Second, the VAST majority of shots taken in Africa are taken standing and off shooting sticks. I've yet to have the pleasure of seeing anyone shoot standing, from shooting sticks on a 100m target with a scope set at 12x and shoot a smaller "group" than the same rifle, same scope, same ammo but, with a power setting of around 4x. What I've seen/experienced is far too many US hunters don't take enough practice time on sticks before going over and forget that magnification not only makes things appear "closer" but it also multiplies your heartbeat, wiggles and shakes and most guys end up "chasing the hairs" over-correcting/over-compensating making it worse.

Last observation is on what I call open "twisty" elevation turrets. Unless you have LOTS and LOTS of range time with them, I will just about guarantee if you bring a scope with one it WILL cost you an animal. Why do I say this? Again, the VAST majority of shots will be 200m or less. For the most part, if you dead nuts zero just about any caliber of rifle from 7x57 to 458WM spot on at 150m, you'll only be an inch or two high at 100m and an inch or two low at 200m. That 2MOA variation is better than most guys can shoot standing off shooting sticks. Next reason is, most guys who show up with the "twisty" scopes make just about the same mistakes every time: they twist it in the wrong direction, they forget to reset it to "zero" between stalks/animals taken and then in the excitement of the next animal, twist it some more and/or between stalks the twisty gets "bumped" on sticks/brush/bushes etc. Lastly, most guys take too long to do the twisty thing. They have to pull their eye(s)/head up off the game to look at the turret, think about direction and how much to adjust, cheek back on the stock and eye(s) back on the game and in the scope and by the time they start putting pressure on the trigger, the game bolts or the shot ends up either missing high/low or wounding the game and it's not recovered. I've witnessed all of these happen multiple times over.

K.I.S.S - Keep It Stupid Simple. Buy as good of glass as you can afford. Also, constantly changing magnification from 2x to 12x and all points in between and the huge change in body size between species can make it a bit difficult for less experienced African hunters to estimate hold over/hold under - Choose one power setting that YOU shoot well at off sticks and stay with it. Don't "over scope" for your shooting ability and or normal shooting distances and shooting positions. HUGE difference between shooting prone with a rest, sitting at a bench with a rest, standing off sticks and freehand.

To the OP's original question - I do have a 9.3x62 in a Ruger 77 African. It has an older Leupold VX-2c in 2-7x33. My personal preference on all scopes for the areas we hunt in Namibia and Botswana is 4x power to start with and then go DOWN to the lowest magnification for following up wounded game where close/quick freehand shot are to be expected.

Again, just my observations and opinions - feel free us utilize of flush as you see fit.

Jeez I couldn't be bothered with all that crap on a scope...far too much to piss around with...
Fine if your a sniper...but no thanks....1-6 is plenty or maybe one if those 3-7 ones and nice and compact.....and never felt needing with the pecar I have...which goes up to 4x...:D Beers:
 
Keep the magnification ratio down to 3x or less and you have a stalking scope. Higher than that and you have a target scope or a sighting telescope and spotting telescope in one. Great for spotting targets for your mate when shooting on a range out to 500 yards or so but even on the expensive scopes you will have a restricted ‘eye box’ relative to the lower ratio optics. I had a look through a straight tube Swarovski several years back when they brought out the high magnification ratio scopes (1-6 or 1-7?). I was not impressed with the eye box and that was in the shop! The positive reviews were, in my opinion, bullshit.
You also make the rifle top heavy with the bigger optics, even the straight tube ones and ... if anything sticks out, it will get scraped, hit, crushed, cut, split, probably damaging something else in the process. First rule of going bush!
That being said, I wish the man luck with his choice.
 
Not a criticism to anyone's choice intended, mostly just an observation based on a career in the military and now for the past 15 years taking multiple trips a year to Namibia and Botswana with a good number of friends/clients. I personally think too many people "over scope" with regards to magnification, not necessarily objective size, just magnification. Here's why, and please remember, this is just my opinion and everyone's mileage may vary.

First, unless you're hunting in the open savannas or western US where shot distance expectations are 200m and longer, there are very, very few times when "high" magnifications are "better" than lower settings. Kind of like a poster back in April said about his PH telling him to set his magnification at 2.5x and leave it there.

Second, the VAST majority of shots taken in Africa are taken standing and off shooting sticks. I've yet to have the pleasure of seeing anyone shoot standing, from shooting sticks on a 100m target with a scope set at 12x and shoot a smaller "group" than the same rifle, same scope, same ammo but, with a power setting of around 4x. What I've seen/experienced is far too many US hunters don't take enough practice time on sticks before going over and forget that magnification not only makes things appear "closer" but it also multiplies your heartbeat, wiggles and shakes and most guys end up "chasing the hairs" over-correcting/over-compensating making it worse.

Last observation is on what I call open "twisty" elevation turrets. Unless you have LOTS and LOTS of range time with them, I will just about guarantee if you bring a scope with one it WILL cost you an animal. Why do I say this? Again, the VAST majority of shots will be 200m or less. For the most part, if you dead nuts zero just about any caliber of rifle from 7x57 to 458WM spot on at 150m, you'll only be an inch or two high at 100m and an inch or two low at 200m. That 2MOA variation is better than most guys can shoot standing off shooting sticks. Next reason is, most guys who show up with the "twisty" scopes make just about the same mistakes every time: they twist it in the wrong direction, they forget to reset it to "zero" between stalks/animals taken and then in the excitement of the next animal, twist it some more and/or between stalks the twisty gets "bumped" on sticks/brush/bushes etc. Lastly, most guys take too long to do the twisty thing. They have to pull their eye(s)/head up off the game to look at the turret, think about direction and how much to adjust, cheek back on the stock and eye(s) back on the game and in the scope and by the time they start putting pressure on the trigger, the game bolts or the shot ends up either missing high/low or wounding the game and it's not recovered. I've witnessed all of these happen multiple times over.

K.I.S.S - Keep It Stupid Simple. Buy as good of glass as you can afford. Also, constantly changing magnification from 2x to 12x and all points in between and the huge change in body size between species can make it a bit difficult for less experienced African hunters to estimate hold over/hold under - Choose one power setting that YOU shoot well at off sticks and stay with it. Don't "over scope" for your shooting ability and or normal shooting distances and shooting positions. HUGE difference between shooting prone with a rest, sitting at a bench with a rest, standing off sticks and freehand.

To the OP's original question - I do have a 9.3x62 in a Ruger 77 African. It has an older Leupold VX-2c in 2-7x33. My personal preference on all scopes for the areas we hunt in Namibia and Botswana is 4x power to start with and then go DOWN to the lowest magnification for following up wounded game where close/quick freehand shot are to be expected.

Again, just my observations and opinions - feel free us utilize of flush as you see fit.

You may be the first person I’ve ever read that said 150 yard/meter zero.....been doing that for years and always seem to get a weird look when I tell someone that. I’m no ballistic guru by any stretch, but can read a trajectory chart and with pretty much all my rifles, like you said, I’m an inch high at a 100 and two low at two hundred when neutral is at 150. Don’t need to screw around with a turret at all as an inch in either direction still puts you in the kill zone, so aim to center of kill box and pull trigger. Rarely shoot past 200 but with the VX-6HD‘s I’ve settled on for all my guns you can get a custom turret to your preferred ammo which you can then set for distance shots when you want to reach out a bit....setting my first stop at 250, then at 300 and 350. Not shooting past that ever for hunting so only need three click stops plus neutral. Do like the 2-12 and 3-18 variants, 1-6 on the 416 Rem Mag, Keep the mag on about 5-6 most of the time, my eyes aren’t what they used to be.
 
a 2-7 ish scope will do all one needs to do on that rifle. i tell clients....you are not shooting gophers, don't worry about high magnification. also "always leave on the lowest setting, you can always turn it up if you REALLY need to
 
Leica Magnus 1-6.3x24. Extremely wide field of view, extremely good light transmission. Robust, if a little heavy, but that never hurt on a larger calibre. The adjustable red dot means fast target acquisition for the hogs you are after and excellent in the African bush too. Most advantageous is the very low mounting, crank it down to 1 power and you have virtual open sights. I dont know why these scopes are not more popular for the 9.3 and up calibres, they fit the bill perfectly.
 

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