338 win mag data??

Hunt27

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Just starting a load for my 338 win mag tikka.I heard the 338 has some struggles with getting the normal tikka accuracy(bought the gun used knowing this). I put this rifle in a Boyds stock that i had gun smith bedded, and I'm considering adding a muzzle brake. So not sure what else i can do to help it out.
Loads, The rifle shot factory hornady 225 sst at 2760, first test load, 225 barns ttsx, 61g rl17 at 2520fps. I would like to target low 2700fps and looking at barns book that's doable without hitting the max. also considering dropping to the 210 gr, both for easy speed pick up and less recoil (although probably unnoticeable).
Just curios what others 338 win mag load data is. Thanks for sharing.
 
I’ve shot most bullet weights for my .338 and have finally settled on 225’s as being the best all-around option. You can push 225’s at 2,700-2,800 which results in a fairly flat shooting chambering plus lots of ‘punch’ on game.

You DO NOT need a muzzle brake for a 338 Win Mag. Shoot some different bullets and weights and I’m sure you’ll find a comfortable and very accurate load. The .338 win mag is simply one of the best cartridges ever developed.
 
I’ve shot most bullet weights for my .338 and have finally settled on 225’s as being the best all-around option. You can push 225’s at 2,700-2,800 which results in a fairly flat shooting chambering plus lots of ‘punch’ on game.

You DO NOT need a muzzle brake for a 338 Win Mag. Shoot some different bullets and weights and I’m sure you’ll find a comfortable and very accurate load. The .338 win mag is simply one of the best cartridges ever developed.
I bought the rifle used, im guessing the previous owner had the barrel ported. I never seen a factory tikka have a ported barrel.
 
I use a batch of Swift A-Frames that they got wrong about 15 years ago. there was an error in one of the measurements so they only weighed 216 grains. I bought 500 of them, so I won't be running out any time soon. I use Reloader 19 and get 2700+ fps muzzle velocity out of a 1960 Model 70 Alaskan.
 
RL17 is my powder of choice for the 338 WM.
I like the 210 Barnes TTSX for a bit more speed and less recoil than a 225. (Nothing wrong with the 225 by any means.)

I stopped at 70 grains of RL17 with the 210 TTSX which is well under max. The first shot from a cold dirty barrel runs a little over 2,900 fps with subsequent shots just under 2,900.

I get good accuracy from my Sako A series, however I test and zero that rifle from Quad sticks, not from the bench. From the sticks it shoots about 2MOA on average.
 
I've had really good luck with IMR 4831, H4831 and RL17 with mine. 250gr accubonds and 250gr grand slams are what I've loaded mostly. 26" barrel and the speed has always been meh, between 2700 and 2750 with everything. 70ish grains of the 4831's and 67.5 grains of RL17 carefully worked up. Accuracy has always been good enough with all of them (sub - 2MOA regardless of load). RL17 has been particularly good and could likely get well up over 2850fps with it if i pushed it, but recoil is already getting nasty at 2700+ and I'd rather brass life than maximum horsepower. 2700 fps should be very easy to hit with a 225 barnes and the 210gr starting loads are probably that fast already. I'd expect to reach near 3,000 fps with a 210 gr bullet and maximum loads of 4350 or RL17.

A tikka 338 sounds like a recoil monstrosity and your issues might well be your optic floating the zero around or just yourself developing a flinch. I've never shot a tikka (at least 2 dozen of them) that wasn't a sub 1.5 MOA rifle with any load you stuck in it and all sub MOA with one they liked. I think if your general load practices are sound and the accuracy isn't very good with any load, I'd look to the optic first and the rifle's stock fit second. I have read somewhere that they quit making the .338 because the recoil lug was inadequate for the recoil.
 
Fantastic bullet. But monolithic copper bullets like the Barnes are LONG for their weight and take up more case capacity. They often achieve top velocity with powders one step slower than you'd use for a similar weight lead-core bullet.
 
I've had really good luck with IMR 4831, H4831 and RL17 with mine. 250gr accubonds and 250gr grand slams are what I've loaded mostly. 26" barrel and the speed has always been meh, between 2700 and 2750 with everything. 70ish grains of the 4831's and 67.5 grains of RL17 carefully worked up. Accuracy has always been good enough with all of them (sub - 2MOA regardless of load). RL17 has been particularly good and could likely get well up over 2850fps with it if i pushed it, but recoil is already getting nasty at 2700+ and I'd rather brass life than maximum horsepower. 2700 fps should be very easy to hit with a 225 barnes and the 210gr starting loads are probably that fast already. I'd expect to reach near 3,000 fps with a 210 gr bullet and maximum loads of 4350 or RL17.

A tikka 338 sounds like a recoil monstrosity and your issues might well be your optic floating the zero around or just yourself developing a flinch. I've never shot a tikka (at least 2 dozen of them) that wasn't a sub 1.5 MOA rifle with any load you stuck in it and all sub MOA with one they liked. I think if your general load practices are sound and the accuracy isn't very good with any load, I'd look to the optic first and the rifle's stock fit second. I have read somewhere that they quit making the .338 because the recoil lug was inadequate for the recoil.
You feel it when you pull the trigger, I added aftermarket lug, boyds wood stock adds some weight, Thats why im thinking about adding a brake, to take the recoil away from the rifle as much as me. Also why my target velocity is a very modest 2700 2750sfps.
 
I have a Ruger M77 Hawkeye in 338 WM. I use 67.5 grs of H4350 and 225 Swift A Frames, for just under 2700 fps.

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Use Barnes 225 TSX, and their load data for H4350, F215M primers and you'll have no trouble getting to 2650-2700ish FPS, moderate recoil, plenty of juice to kill anything you will hunt with a 338 WM, point and click out to about 220 yards if I remember correctly.
 

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