275 Rigby project

Tintin

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Hi All,

Finally underway with this project that has been a pipe dream for a while.

I have very much enjoyed (and been educated by) some of the project threads here, VonGruffs come to mind as particularly informative.

My intent is to build (or I should say have built - I've not been endowed with such skills myself) a rifle in the Rigby style, along the lines (but not necessarily an exact replica) of Jim Corbett's .275 (albeit mine is going to be on a small ring action).

Anyway, lots of questions arising, decisions to make and opinions to consider.

I'll welcome AH crew's views on things along the way, but for starters, barrel profile

I have a LW #722 factory chambered / threaded 25" bbl that I'm looking to have re-profiled along the lines of this beauty by Dorleac & Dorleac ...

DampD275RigbyPlainsGameRifle04_zpse81ac4ed.jpg


DampD275RigbyPlainsGameRifle11_zps7edd897a.jpg


Just trying to confirm the dimensions, seems from my research (including referencing the LW #5126 'H&H Small Calibre' profile, the dimensions I think I should be looking at are something like:

275_profile_ABCDE.jpg


A: ~26mm
B: ~12mm
C: ~22.81mm (as per the LW #5126)
D: 28.5mm (front ring of action = ⌀33mm, so ~2mm 'step down' seems to look about right
E: ~14mm

The LW 'H&H Small Calibre' profile is below (but does not have such a pronounced scallop from the Nock's form as what I'm ideally after)

188.jpg


I'd welcome any input from the AH brains trust - especially any who have an old Rigby etc, have taken measurements from one or have built in this style.

TIA

Mark
 

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JPbowhunter

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I can't be of help with the technical side other than to wish you good luck.

But I am currently having a 275 Rigby built myself, mind you I wasn't aiming to replicate Corbett's exact rifle (though now I'm wishing i had!). Mine is being built on a cz550 action. It's been in the works for couple months now, should have it by the end of September!

Like you I'm a big fan of corbett, my concern is next I'll want his 450/400 double!

All the best mate,

Jp
 

MS Hitman

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Best of luck with such a worthy build. I have one of the Ruger Africans from last years Lipsey's run and am enjoying the rifle, especially after taking two deer with it. Please keep us posted as this project progresses.
 

MS Hitman

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"Like you I'm a big fan of corbett, my concern is next I'll want his 450/400 double!"

That is very valid concern and risk you take.
 

JPbowhunter

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Are you planning on having folding leaf sights like the original? I really wanted some but was quoted $1000 for parts and installation in Australia.

I'm tempted to do it myself one day and try to regulate them myself once I've found a load i like
 

Russ-F

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Tintin,
I'll measure my pre-war Rigby.

Your 25" barrel length is correct & the profile used by Dorleac & Dorleac in that photo does look right.

Unlike the rear sight on the Dorlec rifle, Rigby's fitted with a bolt mounted aperture sight (from new) usually didn't have a standing (fixed) leaf on the barrel mounted rear sight - all leaves were folding, (I'll wrote 'usually rather than 'always' as there's bound to be exceptions in British gunmaking).

The aperture sight on mine is adjusted/graduated via a rotating wheel for 100, 200 & 300 yards. The barrel mounted rear sight has two folding leaves graduated for 100 & 300 yards.

Some very early Rigby's were built on the 'transitional' 98 action which had a small ring (other features were pure 98).

Regards
Russ
 

Von Gruff

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Tintin

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Thanks all - exciting times - and no doubt a lot of 'hurry up and wait' ahead ;-)

@JP - I prob don't $1,000 worth of attention to that detail - but you both did get me thinking - maybe use a Recknagel 15400-3051/ NECG equivalent and file down the standing leaf - that would give you 3 folding - although many (most?) of the Ribgys had 4 folding I think? Keen to see how your 550 comes up

@VG - thanks - looking forward to your thoughts on the project

the double is a risk I'll have to take ;-)

@Russ - thanks a lot - look forward to details
 

JPbowhunter

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Thanks all - exciting times - and no doubt a lot of 'hurry up and wait' ahead ;-)

@JP - I prob don't $1,000 worth of attention to that detail - but you both did get me thinking - maybe use a Recknagel 15400-3051/ NECG equivalent and file down the standing leaf - that would give you 3 folding - although many (most?) of the Ribgys had 4 folding I think? Keen to see how your 550 comes up

@VG - thanks - looking forward to your thoughts on the project

the double is a risk I'll have to take ;-)

@Russ - thanks a lot - look forward to details
I didn't realise you were an aussie, what part of aus are you in? I got my quote from kudu gunsmithing in Melbourne. Guy doing my build in NSW didn't really want to try with the folding leaf.

I'm sure you could do it yourself easy enough. Realistically, three leaf is probably enough at 100m 200m and 300m. Any further is a tough shot open sights, for me at least.
 

Tintin

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JP - I'm in Melb

Bob @ Kudu is a well regarded in old British builds etc and from what I understand will do custom parts - but obviously time intensive = expensive.

I'm going to drop and see him re front sling eyelet in Rigby style.

He's done work for me before and I've been happy with it and found him generous with his time and willing to share his experience.

I reckon 3 leaves plenty for my eyes ;-( the Rigby HS leaves are regulated 65/150/250 - that's prob pretty suitable as well.

The Reck / NECG rear sight islands do sit too high - so I'd expect to have mine machined down as much as possible (making sure they still work with QD bases)

thinking I might go with Talley QD bases - not very Corbett though ;-)
 

Tintin

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@Russ-F - the 'Cecil rifle' is, I think, a great example of a (very) early (1898) small ring - with an earlier version (without the 'wheel') bolt peep
 
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Von Gruff

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@Russ-F - the 'Cecil rifle' is, I think, a great example of a (very) early (1898) small ring - with an earlier version (without the 'wheel') bolt peep
What a fantastic seriec of pic in that link @Tintin . Saved it for leasurly and repeated study.
 

Russ-F

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Tintin,

Using the lettered dimensions on your barrel drawing as a reference:
A = 1.20”
B = 0.550”
C = 0.920”
D = 1.175” / 1.160” with the larger diameter being closest to the action.
E = 0.600”
Exposed length of barrel = 24-5/16”

The distance between front of action & the rearmost leaf in the rear sight is 4”
The front of the foresight ramp is 0.900” back from the muzzle.

If you click on the ‘2’ photos under my name/details it will take you to a couple of photos of my rifle.

Regards
Russell
 

Tintin

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Thanks VG

Thanks Russ for the specs (and the pics)

I've got a growing list of questions that I'm compiling - not at the woodwork for a while (have a nice blank) - but would welcome any views on cross bolt(s) - don't seem to see many on the old .275s - but the stockmaker is highly recommending one - thoughts anyone .....?
 

Russ-F

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Tintin,

Given decent wood & stocking a cross-bolt shouldn’t be required on a .275

Rigby .275’s didn’t have cross-bolts as standard.

Some hidden Devcon (or whatever) bedding just around the recoil lug isn’t a bad idea just to ensure full bearing but the last 120 years has shown anything more isn’t necessary for the cartridge you will be using. That’s not to say a .275” (or similar) stock has never split but it was probably due to other causes than pure recoil.

Using poor wood or dodgy stocking is another matter but I’m sure you won’t be going down that route.

Almost perversely some of the most exotically figured blanks may need some ‘help’. My local gunmaker (they make shotguns) has more than once shown me a stunning blank he couldn’t use for a sidelock shotgun just because of the direction of the grain around the head of the stock would be at odds to the line of recoil. He’d happily use it for stock on an O/U with a drawbolt but not for a traditional S/S.

Engraved cross-bolt heads do look attractive & I’ve seen them even on a ‘custom’ .243” so have one if you like but ‘need one’ is another matter.

Regards
Russ
 

Pheroze

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Sounds like a great project!

Check with the barrel maker about reprofiling it. I have a spiral fluted barrel and was told that this has to be done at the time of manufacture. I understood that taking metal after the barrel is finished will adversely affect the accuracy. Maybe the kind of work you are proposing won't create the same issue, but I thought I would mention it.
 

Milehighshooter

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I am in the stock fitting phase of my 275 Rigby project! I'll try and get some pics up later today. I bought a semi inlet stock and I'm going to really slim down the wood, like a Stalking Rifle style, but I'm going to be putting a sling eyelet on the tip since I didn't have a barrel band fitted when I had the blue done (kick myself for that).

I had mine marked "275 Rigby Hi Vel" on one side and 7x57 on the other, figured that was a good idea for traveling. Mine was cut with the Rigby HV chamber, throated for 140gr bullets.
 

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