New Member, New M70 Cape Buff Edition

The feeler gauge in the bottom of the recoil lug mortise accomplished free floating the barrel, but the action really should be re-bedded in the stock now. The nice flat surface on the bottom of the action is now not in contact with stock and bedding, but floating above. I am not saying that the rifle will not give acceptable accuracy or wont function, but it is certainly not optimum. Now the rotational torque upon firing is handled by the action screws and recoil lug, not entire bottom of action as designed. Not only that, the front of your action is essentially standing on the recoil lug, and tightening the action screws are inducing stress into the action if not outright causing it to flex. Again, not saying it wont work but it is not ideal.

Nice looking rifle ! I would probably pick one up if I could convince myself I needed another .375.
You’re not wrong here, and I might choose to re bed part of the action. Will see how it shoots first.
 
I picked up mine at Bass Pro last week and it’s a beautiful rifle and I loved that they bucked the trend and didn’t put their name on the rifle
 
I picked up mine at Bass Pro last week and it’s a beautiful rifle and I loved that they bucked the trend and didn’t put their name on the rifle
pictures please
 
How’s the trigger overall? Any reason to get a Timney for it?
The trigger feels great. I prefer this weight (4-4.5) in a 375 so I didn’t try and adjust it down. Some of these MOA triggers do, some don’t. But it was so crisp and clean, it felt much lighter. It’s a good trigger. No need for a timney unless you want to go low with pull weight.
 
A properly fitted M70 style safety should not be unduly difficult to engage to the safe position. They generally do require a bit more effort to go from fire to safe than from safe to fire because it is compressing the mainspring as was stated. The M70 style safety is not unique in withdrawing the striker and compressing the mainspring however. Many rifles have safety mechanisms that withdraw the cocking piece and striker against mainspring tension. As originally designed (read: not Timney replacements with safeties) M98s, Springfields, 1917/P14, Remington 30 Express, and yes, even the maligned Remington 700 safety withdraws the striker against mainspring tension. The key is proper fitting of the safety and cocking piece so that the camming effect is smooth and properly uses leverage to withdraw the striker.

Ontario Hunter, your Parkwest 3 position should definitely be lifting your striker off the sear on a M98. In fact if it isn't it is dangerous. Most likely it is lifting it a small amount that is imperceptible. I personally like to be able to visually see the striker retract when setting up a safety. I fitted a Parkwest Safety to my .458 M98, and it definitely withdraws the striker as it should. If a M70 style (Parkwest) safety is not fit properly to withdraw the striker, the rifle can fire when moving the safety to fire without touching the trigger if the trigger was previously pulled. To adjust this a small amount of material needs to be removed from the cocking piece or the sear, so that the safety is withdrawing the cocking piece away from the sear.
Thanks. I checked it again and no discernable movement of striker. Then checked to see if depressing trigger in safe position and releasing the safety would fire the gun on its own. Maybe fifty test attempts and I was able to get two accidental striker releases but only from position two and only when returned from position three and then trigger is depressed. Not after cycling in position two and depressing trigger or depressing trigger in full safe position and then releasing. Curious. I almost never use position two but don't trust it in any position now. I'll trim a bit from the front of cocking piece sear tomorrow and get back to you. That should also decrease the amount of striker lift when closing the bolt. This is, of course, a very serious matter as the DGR is typically carried with a round in the chamber on long stalks. I would never carry it in position two because bolt could come open. Also lever in position two is easily caught on clothing etc and accidentally disengaged. Nevertheless, this needs to be resolved.

Hmmm. I was sure I drop tested this rifle (banging butt firmly on concrete floor while cocked and safety engaged) after I finished adding the Timney trigger. Better check again ... yep it's okay. Won't fire even if safety disengaged. Whew.
 
@MD Driver & @Parkerpusher - I don’t know how you guys deal with 4 lb and heavier triggers. Maybe I was spoiled as a young shooter whose Grandfather had all his triggers worked down to sub-3 lb weights.

I wouldn’t hesitate to upgrade to an aftermarket one that’s capable of 2-3 lbs. But then again, it’s not my rifle. Good luck with it guys.
 
@MD Driver & @Parkerpusher - I don’t know how you guys deal with 4 lb and heavier triggers. Maybe I was spoiled as a young shooter whose Grandfather had all his triggers worked down to sub-3 lb weights.

I wouldn’t hesitate to upgrade to an aftermarket one that’s capable of 2-3 lbs. But then again, it’s not my rifle. Good luck with it guys.
I would not want a light trigger for dangerous game ... neither would I want a heavy one. A light trigger might go off prematurely during the excitement of a charging wounded animal. A heavy trigger on the sticks can lead to "trigger pull exhaustion" and loss of accuracy. I think ~3.5-3.75 lb pull is about right. I'm sure you agree ... if you're reading this post ... and I'm sure you're not. :D
 
A properly fitted M70 style safety should not be unduly difficult to engage to the safe position. They generally do require a bit more effort to go from fire to safe than from safe to fire because it is compressing the mainspring as was stated. The M70 style safety is not unique in withdrawing the striker and compressing the mainspring however. Many rifles have safety mechanisms that withdraw the cocking piece and striker against mainspring tension. As originally designed (read: not Timney replacements with safeties) M98s, Springfields, 1917/P14, Remington 30 Express, and yes, even the maligned Remington 700 safety withdraws the striker against mainspring tension. The key is proper fitting of the safety and cocking piece so that the camming effect is smooth and properly uses leverage to withdraw the striker.

Ontario Hunter, your Parkwest 3 position should definitely be lifting your striker off the sear on a M98. In fact if it isn't it is dangerous. Most likely it is lifting it a small amount that is imperceptible. I personally like to be able to visually see the striker retract when setting up a safety. I fitted a Parkwest Safety to my .458 M98, and it definitely withdraws the striker as it should. If a M70 style (Parkwest) safety is not fit properly to withdraw the striker, the rifle can fire when moving the safety to fire without touching the trigger if the trigger was previously pulled. To adjust this a small amount of material needs to be removed from the cocking piece or the sear, so that the safety is withdrawing the cocking piece away from the sear.
Okay, I checked the striker sear in the daylight. Forgot I actually had to carve on sear quite a bit when fitting the Timney trigger. Timney instructions say remove metal from trigger sear as needed but I elected to remove metal from cocking piece sear instead. Much cheaper to replace the cocking piece if I screwed up and rebated too much. This morning I carved away enough more metal from face of the cocking piece sear to create very slight discernable retraction of striker when safety is engaged. But I was still able to get one inadvertent striker release from position two when trigger depressed and then lever moved to fire, but it appears the lever was not entirely seated at position two. My suspicion is the position two hole on striker lever hub is not quite properly located. The first safety Parkwest sent had that hole machined very much off center vertically so that the spring loaded locking pall was barely engaging at position two. Parkwest was ready to send me another safety but Dennis Olsen happened to have a spare lever on hand and he replaced mine when installing the Lilja 404 barrel. I don't think rebating this sear further would solve anything. Guess it's time to call Parkwest again. Or just not worry about it. I don't use position two at all except when disassembling the bolt. Like I said, I never use it when hunting. And I know enough to point the gun in safe direction to unload, so I typically move safety from engaged to fire and cycle the bolt till magazine is empty.
 
@MD Driver & @Parkerpusher - I don’t know how you guys deal with 4 lb and heavier triggers. Maybe I was spoiled as a young shooter whose Grandfather had all his triggers worked down to sub-3 lb weights.

I wouldn’t hesitate to upgrade to an aftermarket one that’s capable of 2-3 lbs. But then again, it’s not my rifle. Good luck with it guys.
It's just preference and practice. I like lighter for other rifles, just prefer heavier for this one.
 
It's just preference and practice. I like lighter for other rifles, just prefer heavier for this one.
It’s what you are comfortable with and that is safe that matters, I prefer lighter triggers but also never have my finger in the trigger guard till I’m ready to shoot, the only thing I’ve ever been charged by was a rabbit (queue Monty python jokes)
Gumpy
 

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