At what point/caliber is a recoil pad necessary vs a steel butt plate?

I know you will have a hard time believing it, but I once had a 30-30 with a curved steel butt plate that plain kicked--and everybody who fired it said so. I would probably cover any such one with a leather slip on recoil pad. They look good, but they are just as likely to slide down a wall they are leaning against if you are not mighty careful.
 
I know you will have a hard time believing it, but I once had a 30-30 with a curved steel butt plate that plain kicked--and everybody who fired it said so. I would probably cover any such one with a leather slip on recoil pad. They look good, but they are just as likely to slide down a wall they are leaning against if you are not mighty careful.
I believe it. The first rifle that I hunted deer with was a Winchester .30-30 carbine of my grandfather's. I could barely reach the trigger and that crescent steel butt plate kicked the heck out of me.
 
Actually 5 barrels now. 500 NE, 470 NE, 500/416, 450/400 and 20 gauge. Luckily the 500,470 and 500/416 share the same case head so they can share the same holes in a cartridge trap I was told. Then that would leave 2 holes for 450/400. I’m thinking long and hard about the cartridge trap now. I’m going to put one on my sons 375 Flanged+7x57r for sure though.

The reason I posted this thread is because it would be a steel buttplate if I did commit to the cartridge trap, and alas I have my worries on it being ridiculously uncomfortable to shoot on the large calibers.
I see some redundancy with your cartridge selection. If it were me I’d narrow it down to either the 500 NE or 470 NE and 500/416 or 450/400 to go along with the 20 gauge barrel.
Personally, I’d go with a good rubber recoil pad like a Silver’s. If you must have a bullet trap I’d consider one underneath the stock like below.

IMG_7434.jpeg
 
Probably against most people’s better judgment I am having a buttpad style cartridge trap installed (he can’t do a under-the-buttstock style such as in a drilling due to the way his buttstock attaches to the receiver)
 
I see some redundancy with your cartridge selection. If it were me I’d narrow it down to either the 500 NE or 470 NE and 500/416 or 450/400 to go along with the 20 gauge barrel.
Personally, I’d go with a good rubber recoil pad like a Silver’s. If you must have a bullet trap I’d consider one underneath the stock like below.

View attachment 790096
Thank you, I completely acknowledge the redundancy. I just picked those calibers because they all interest me a lot and I want to shoot them, not for super practical reasons, I understand the crossover of them but decided to go for it, if not only because the cool factory in my head.

I initially wanted a cartridge trap such as your picture above, I used to have a drilling with one like it, however that style is not possible on the buttstock of the rifle I’m getting made because it has a bolt running through the buttstock to attach to the action. After the advice from all of yall, and speaking more with Bailey, I decided to do away with the bullet trap on my larger rifle being made but I am keeping it on the rifle being made for my Son, which is a 375 Flanged/7x57r/28gauge.
 
I have quite a few bolt action and sidelock doubles with either horn , metal or wood butts . Shotguns are wood . Bolt actions include a few Lee Speed 303s and a 318 WR . All of these have metal butts with traps for cleaning equipment - all good to shoot . I have a 404 Jeffery from 1925 with a horn butt . It is a truly hideous rifle to shoot even with the old loads . The issue is not the butt but it is too light at 9 pounds . My double rifles are a Purdey 303 - a dream to shoot and a Westley Richards 450/400 NE sidelock . Also very nice to use . Both these doubles have engraved steel butts . I recently shot an Army & Navy 577NE with a metal butt. A famous rifle by virtue of provenance . It was quite OK to shoot . In summary I think it all comes down to correct weight for cartridge and good stick design and fit .
 
After 20 to 40 shots from military mauser 98k, i get bruise on the shoulder.

Same for my friends, who shoot mauser better than me.

I was reading that even german soldiers complained on that in ww2.

So, among other things, it also depends on number of shots fired. And 8x57 is mild cartridge.

If it were me i would put ruber pad on any rifle from 308 win and up
.
 
I’m a rifle all calibers. A rifle without a recoil pad looks unfinished or obsolete. Shotguns are a different story.
 
I’m a rifle all calibers. A rifle without a recoil pad looks unfinished or obsolete. Shotguns are a different story.
Not so sure I agree these rifles sans recoil pads look pretty good to me .
 
I’m a rifle all calibers. A rifle without a recoil pad looks unfinished or obsolete. Shotguns are a different story.
Not so sure I agree. These rifles sans recoil pads look pretty good to me . From left to right a Westley Richards 318 , BSA Lee Speed No1 in 303 , a Westley Richards 450/400NE , a 404 Jeffery and a Purdey 303 double .
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4579.jpeg
    IMG_4579.jpeg
    1.8 MB · Views: 43
  • IMG_4578.jpeg
    IMG_4578.jpeg
    2 MB · Views: 40
  • IMG_4408.jpeg
    IMG_4408.jpeg
    4.7 MB · Views: 43
  • IMG_3284.jpeg
    IMG_3284.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 36
  • IMG_3159.jpeg
    IMG_3159.jpeg
    2.3 MB · Views: 34
Not an H&H, nor even yet a magnum of any type. But my Mannlicher 9.5X57 weighs in about 6 or 7 pounds, has a steel butt plate. I shot a Keilernädel with it, and my arm is still attached.


Indeed.

Keep her tight to the shoulder and all is fine.

I advised a buddy of mine to do that once as I was testing loads and he wanted to try the MS.
We were 'bench resting' on my 1970 Cadillac and after having told him to tuck it in tightly I saw a gap between his shoulder and the butt just before he pulled the trigger. Before I could say "hold her tight"; he fired.

Derek was rather solidly built, but slowly handed me the MS with his left hand while saying, "take this", then addressing a rather bruised right shoulder.

Thank you for prompting me to search 'kielernadel'. Good stuff.
 
Last edited:
Not so sure I agree. These rifles sans recoil pads look pretty good to me . From left to right a Westley Richards 318 , BSA Lee Speed No1 in 303 , a Westley Richards 450/400NE , a 404 Jeffery and a Purdey 303 double .
That’s the beauty of the world we don’t have to agree. A nice recipe pad would finish off each of those.
 
Is there any "point/caliber" (to use the phrase from the thread title) where a steel butt plate is superior to a recoil pad, from a functional point of view?

Retaining a steel butt plate for the sake of maintaining the originality of an older firearm is a laudable goal. But from a purely functional point of view I prefer a good quality modern recoil pad on any firearm with recoil to speak of.
 
Not so sure I agree. These rifles sans recoil pads look pretty good to me . From left to right a Westley Richards 318 , BSA Lee Speed No1 in 303 , a Westley Richards 450/400NE , a 404 Jeffery and a Purdey 303 double .
Out of curiosity do you think that a crescent style metal buttplate have any benefits over the regular flat metal plates? My old circa 1906 Savage 1899 in 30-30 has a crescent style plate. I know the old German style target rifles had them, I’m guessing it really only helps for accuracy and not recoil as much? Or after reading other people’s comments about how a metal buttplate slides/shifts more easily on a shooters shoulder I’m assuming the curved crescent style plate helps keep it centered and not shifting while shooting?
 
Out of curiosity do you think that a crescent style metal buttplate have any benefits over the regular flat metal plates? My old circa 1906 Savage 1899 in 30-30 has a crescent style plate. I know the old German style target rifles had them, I’m guessing it really only helps for accuracy and not recoil as much? Or after reading other people’s comments about how a metal buttplate slides/shifts more easily on a shooters shoulder I’m assuming the curved crescent style plate helps keep it centered and not shifting while shooting?
Crescent style plates theoretically are supposed to help the rifle sit in the proper position. The ones on the German target rifles are much more exaggerated and actually are effective at that on a rifle properly fit to the shooter. The less pronounced ones have a nasty habit of driving the point of the crescent into the shoulder or collar bone when improperly seated. I think you should either find someone who will let you put a few rounds through a heavy caliber rifle with a steel plate or take the pad off your own ones and run a round or two out of it. I think that will help answer some questions.
 
Out of curiosity do you think that a crescent style metal buttplate have any benefits over the regular flat metal plates? My old circa 1906 Savage 1899 in 30-30 has a crescent style plate. I know the old German style target rifles had them, I’m guessing it really only helps for accuracy and not recoil as much? Or after reading other people’s comments about how a metal buttplate slides/shifts more easily on a shooters shoulder I’m assuming the curved crescent style plate helps keep it centered and not shifting while shooting?
You are spot on--they are for positioning the butt. But the curved profile concentrates all the recoil at the bottom of the curve. I think it was Carmicheal that observed this in his Book of the Rifle.
 
I have shot many rifles with metal or thin very hard rubber butts. Now, every one of my long guns wears a Pachmayr Decelerator pad. Why have shooting discomfort??
 
You are spot on--they are for positioning the butt. But the curved profile concentrates all the recoil at the bottom of the curve. I think it was Carmicheal that observed this in his Book of the Rifle.
I think what it was intended for, and how well it worked, really didn't line up. Then it became a "style requirement." Notice how no guns have been made with this feature for many years. If shooters still wanted it that's how they would be made.

There were probably shooters back in the day that complained how the gun makers just stopped building rifles with crescent butt plates to force them to buy new guns. That would make as much sense as all the whining we hear about the companies inventing new cartridges.
 
Indeed.

Keep her tight to the shoulder and all is fine.

I advised a buddy of mine to do that once as I was testing loads and he wanted to try the MS.
We were 'bench resting' on my 1970 Cadillac and after having told him to tuck it in tightly I saw a gap between his shoulder and the butt just before he pulled the trigger. Before I could say "hold her tight"; he fired.

Derek was rather solidly built, but slowly handed me the MS with his left hand while saying, "take this", then addressing a rather bruised right shoulder.

Thank you for prompting me to search 'kielernadel'. Good stuff.
What did you do--hand him a 9.5 caliber?
 
The only hard butt plate to ever cause me trouble is a Henry .45-70 with a very square, flat brass butt plate. That darned thing drew blood in less than ten shots. It went to the gunsmith the very next week for a rubber recoil pad. He was reluctant to cut it because of aesthetics. I told him he could cut or else I would and I knew he would do a better job. Best decision ever.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
70,118
Messages
1,564,416
Members
167,117
Latest member
LuigiS000
 

 

 

Latest posts

Latest profile posts

migrabill wrote on Surgeon1's profile.
Be careful of this Wolfen guy. 2 messages. Both trying to sell something. He PM'ed me trying to sell something and he PM'ed my friend on here trying to sell something. Fishy.
autofire wrote on Dr Ray's profile.
Hi Dr. Ray, I will be in Cooktown from Oct 16 to Oct 23 fishing Lizard Island Black Marlin Tournament.

I have several "slack" days after fishing before I head for stay in Sydney and Fiji.

Do you have any recommendations for 1 or 2 day hunt near Cooktown?

I've hunted both DG and PG in 4 different countries in Africa.
Thank you,
Bob
Alex Sniper wrote on Bynotic's profile.
Good morning. I see that you had a Sauer 202 for sale for $3,000. Did you sell it at that price?
I have one for sale as well. I listed it (on here ) at $3,000 as well. Is the price high, low or right where it should be?

Thanks. Alex. [redacted] in case you want to call me to discuss further. I appreciate your time help and support.
 
Top