Ruger M77 Leupold rings

CBeck

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I’ve had a set of Alaska Arms QD rings on order for about two months now, and I’m starting to get a little impatient waiting on them.

So I’ve been looking at other options in the meantime.

I’ve run Warne medium rings on several rifles and they’ve always worked well for me—solid, repeatable, no real complaints—but I was thinking about trying something a little more refined this time around.

That led me to the Leupold Ruger M77 rings.

Couple questions for those who’ve used them:

1. Return to zero

Has anyone tested removing and reinstalling them to see how well they hold zero?

Functionally, I don’t see why they wouldn’t—if you reinstall them the same way and torque the side clamp consistently—but theory and real-world use don’t always line up.

2. Ring height comparison…..

If I’m understanding correctly:
  • Leupold measures base → centerline
  • Warne / Alaska Arms measure base → bottom of tube
So in theory:

A Leupold “high” (around 1.0”) minus 15mm (~0.59”)…for 30mm tube

should put it right around 0.40–0.41”

Which would make it basically the same as a Warne or Alaska Arms medium (~0.42”)

Does that track?

What I’m trying to figure out
  • Are the Leupold Ruger rings actually repeatable as qd?
  • And is the “high = medium” crossover accurate in practice?
Appreciate any firsthand experience.
 
take a look at the Warne rings QD and standard are VERY well made and their customer service is over the top.
 
I run the factory Ruger Rings. They do return to zero if installed correctly. They are not QD as you know, but they do come off real easy.
I travel with a set of fix it sticks in my gun case.

Install rings and then
To ensure return-to-zero, push the rings towards the muzzle (forward) while tightening the base screws to lock them against the recoil shoulder.

Also lapping can help.
 
I run the factory Ruger Rings. They do return to zero if installed correctly. They are not QD as you know, but they do come off real easy.
I travel with a set of fix it sticks in my gun case.

Install rings and then
To ensure return-to-zero, push the rings towards the muzzle (forward) while tightening the base screws to lock them against the recoil shoulder.

Also lapping can help.
It is necessary to do the same thing with Warne (push forward while torquing) and of course, proper installation.

Again, I can’t see why a screw versus a lever would make any substantial difference in the return to zero.

Thank you for your input.
 
take a look at the Warne rings QD and standard are VERY well made and their customer service is over the top.
Thank you… I have Warne on everything now and they are quite well-made… I was just looking for something, perhaps, a little more sleek in an appearance.
 
I have removed and then reinstalled the scopes on my Model 77 Alaskans in both 375 and 416. They Return To Zero sufficient that I cannot tell the difference in group size. I am however now using 30mm Warne QD's on my 416 to support a new VX6 1-6X with FireDot.

While it is certainly easier to remove the scope with the levers instead of a screwdriver, The Return To Zero when properly remounted and torqued down is indistinguishable.
 
The Leupold Ruger rings are not truly QD. They're designed to be removed and reinstalled, but they won't hold zero like a true quick-detach system. For return-to-zero, the Alaska Arms rings are in a different league. The Leupolds are beautifully made and more refined than Warnes, but they're not a substitute for a proper QD system.
 
I’ve had a set of Alaska Arms QD rings on order for about two months now, and I’m starting to get a little impatient waiting on them.

So I’ve been looking at other options in the meantime.

I’ve run Warne medium rings on several rifles and they’ve always worked well for me—solid, repeatable, no real complaints—but I was thinking about trying something a little more refined this time around.

That led me to the Leupold Ruger M77 rings.

Couple questions for those who’ve used them:

1. Return to zero

Has anyone tested removing and reinstalling them to see how well they hold zero?

Functionally, I don’t see why they wouldn’t—if you reinstall them the same way and torque the side clamp consistently—but theory and real-world use don’t always line up.

2. Ring height comparison…..

If I’m understanding correctly:
  • Leupold measures base → centerline
  • Warne / Alaska Arms measure base → bottom of tube
So in theory:

A Leupold “high” (around 1.0”) minus 15mm (~0.59”)…for 30mm tube

should put it right around 0.40–0.41”

Which would make it basically the same as a Warne or Alaska Arms medium (~0.42”)

Does that track?

What I’m trying to figure out
  • Are the Leupold Ruger rings actually repeatable as qd?
  • And is the “high = medium” crossover accurate in practice?
Appreciate any firsthand experience.
 
I ordered the Alaska Arms QD rings for my 9.3x62 Hawkeye African on February 2 of this year. Just received them last week.
They are not mass produced and just take a while. I did call Morris the owner because I was also a little impatient. He was very friendly and apologetic concerning the length of time it was taking.
 
I hadn’t realized they changed it to “back ordering” in effect.

Couple years ago I just had to wait until their extended floorplates and a certain ring height I wanted showed in stock.
 
I must have just been lucky as I have ordered about 6-8 sets of Moriss’s rings over the years and never waited more than a month from ordering to delivery.
Same with his floor plates though I did call on a blued one for an African model since I saw it was not listed on his site at the time
 

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Paul
CJNJ wrote on UNTAMED KNIVES's profile.
Still possible to order one of these?
ghay wrote on Floridanative's profile.
Hello,
I might be able to help you out depending on how many you need. I could probably spare 50-75 .285g A-Frames. They are factory pulls that look like new. Let me know if you are still looking,
Thanks,
Gary
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Hi. I can take 5 boxes at $200 shipped if interested. Thanks
 
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