Gun safe recommendation

SStomcat

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Looking for a standing gun safe that will not break the bank and not too big or bulky. Good for couple of rifles and handguns and few more extras
 
Tractor Supply had a sale on Winchester guns safes a couple weeks ago. Not sure if they still have a version of the sale or if you’re near one, but they were under $300 if picked up from the store for a 20 rifle safe.

Obviously, it’s not premium, but it’s a good common burglar barrier and for a burglar prepared to get through a safe, it’s a good distraction if you have goods split between multiple safes.
 
Looking for a standing gun safe that will not break the bank and not too big or bulky. Good for couple of rifles and handguns and few more extras

Serious recommendation here...

NEVER buy a gun safe the size that you currently need.. always buy bigger than you think you will ever need..

also.. understand that whatever a gun safe advertises its capacity as.. cut that number by at least 1/3... depending on what type of guns you have, whether or not they have optics on them, etc.. you might need to cut that number by 1/2..

I have a 48 gun liberty "fat boy".. If I get really aggressive and play magical levels of tetris in there I can get MAYBE 32 long guns in the safe...

When I bought it I thought "I'll never fill this thing".. but I caught it on a great sale (on 50% off clearance when Gander Mountain was going out of business)... so I bought it..

Now the safe is full.. I have a 8 gun cabinet that is full.. and there are another dozen or so firearms scattered all around the house (hidden in coffee tables, bed side tables, in closets, in desk drawers, in the bed footboard, etc..etc.. and Im considering buying another 48 gun safe so that I can consolidate the collection...
 
I was at Sam's the other day and saw a "32 gun" Sports Afield safe for $600. It looked like it could hold 6-8 guns in reality.

What is the reason or reasons you want a safe? This will dictate the selection process. Obviously, cost, size and weight are issues you've listed. Some people simply want a lock box to keep their guns away from small children. Others want super strong, supe heavy, super expensive safes to keep their heirloom guns and possibly the wife's jewelry safe from world class safe crackers.

Take a look at this thread

How to Choose a Gun Safe
by Philip Massaro - Thursday, May 26, 2016
SOURCE: https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2016/5/26/how-to-choose-a-gun-safe/
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Owning a firearm is a serious responsibility, one I’ve never taken lightly. Gone are the years when Dad would set the deer rifle and rabbit gun into the wooden rack that hung on the wall; we wouldn’t touch them, because we understood what they were all about. However, in this crazy age of mandatory trigger locks, corporate culpability, legal finger-pointing and other common-sense-defying legal situations, a gun safe makes a whole lot of sense. While there are many models, types, shapes and sizes to choose from, there are certain features that I appreciate. Depending on your situation, the amount of firearms you need to store, and the room you have to store them, certain features may appeal to you. Let’s take a look at some of the choices available.

View attachment 154174

A gun safe can be a couple of different things. It can be, simply put, a means of securing your firearms and ammunition so that they don’t fall into the wrong hands. Or, it can be a means of disaster insurance, protecting not only your firearms, but other valuables and irreplaceable items from fire. I like to note this here, with no intended offense to the safe manufacturing companies: I’ve never owned or seen a safe that will actually hold the amount of firearms that the manufacturer has indicated. I’ve tried to stuff them in the safe like rakes in a shed and rearranged them in a Tetris-like fashion, but I can’t get to the number they indicate. So, my first piece of advice is to "overbuy." While the majority of my firearms are common-place—lacking any fancy engraving or marbled walnut—I do have a handful that might be deemed as pretty, and the last thing I want is to have my investment scratched or dinged because of cramped quarters. So, I personally like to keep things rather loose inside the safe.

The majority of my firearms are long guns, so when I went shopping I wanted a configuration that would center around them, with the capability of neatly storing my handguns as well, in addition to some of my valuables (there are far less of these than I’d prefer). I was in the market for a safe that would hold right around 40 long guns, and was settled upon a certain model, when a friend called me to deliver the news that he’d been transferred from New York to Georgia for a job opportunity. He had a Timber Ridge 64-gun safe, purchased from Gander Mountain, and due to the immense size, he wanted to sell it rather than try and haul it down the East Coast. Long story short, I became the new owner of a safe that doubled as a small office—and I’m glad I did. The over-sized (at least in comparison to what I thought I’d need) body allows me to store my firearms in a "roomy" manner; the opportunity for dings or scratches is, at least, minimized.

My own safe features a manual, dial combination lock, with a three number combination, as well as a key lock to secure the mechanism. I’ve since looked at some of the models with the electronic locks, and while their design seems to be sound, I am dear friends with Mr. Murphy and his close-following Law, so I tend to try to keep things simple. I can report that in three years of ownership, I’ve had no malfunctions whatsoever with the locking mechanism. The Timber Ridge series is manufactured by Liberty Safe, and they have a great reputation for customer service.

The choice of lock mechanism is ultimately up to you, as I feel that both will work, but I’d highly suggest that you take a good, long look at the fire rating of the safe you're interested in. Each safe will indicate at what temperature, and for what length of time, the contents will be safe. Please keep in mind that while paper—as Mr. Bradbury so eloquently related—will ignite at 451˚F, many of the synthetic stocks will melt at temperatures around 250˚F, and the steel barrel of a firearm will act as a heat-sink, trapping and holding the heat of a fire. As it stands, there is no standardized rating system for a fire-proof gun safe, so the consumer will have to do his or her best to interpret the data, so as to best serve their needs.

Most of the gun safes lock up with round, protruding steel rods, much like a bank vault. You’ll want a sturdy, tamper-proof locking mechanism, so that thieves can’t break in easily. Many gun safes come pre-drilled with holes in the floor, for bolting the safe to the floor. This makes a lot of sense, as I’ve known folks who have been robbed, and because the thieves couldn’t break into the safe, they simply stole the entire affair. Bolt that thing to the floor and you’ll more than likely find it where you left it.

You also need to be cognizant of the weight of your safe; some of the larger models can easily weigh in excess of 1,000 pounds, and that can test the strength of your floor joists. If I had to wager, I’d say the model I own weighed more like 1,500 pounds, and the house simply couldn’t handle it, so it resides in my shop.

And this brings me to the last tip: be aware of the humidity conditions in your area. Here in the Northeast, where it is very damp throughout most of the year, my safe in the shop is challenged by moisture, which leads to rust, and I hate rust. I use a dehumidifier made under the Remington brand, which uses water-collecting beads to draw the moisture away from my firearms. The beads are blue when dry, and change to a pale-pink color when saturated. You can then plug the apparatus into a wall socket, to dry it out again. This handy little tool keeps things dry inside, and it’s simple enough to maintain. Other safes use light bulbs to keep things dry, and having light inside the safe is a nice feature. I’ve rigged up several different light sources, but I truly wish my safe had a permanent, fixed lighting system.

My own safe has a rack system for holding my rifles, but there are other systems. Some of the nicer Pendleton safes have a Lazy-Susan style rotating rack for easy removal or addition of your firearm. The Pendleton’s have some of the neatest graphics on the market—really classy stuff.

Choosing a gun safe is one of those things that need to be well researched, but I feel that you ultimately need to see and feel the safe before you buy it; a blind purchase from the Internet can easily result in disappointment. Choose wisely, and make sure you have some strong friends on hand for the move!
 
My brother is a retired fire insurance investigator. He says the biggest joke on the market today is "fireproof" gun safes. He's seen scores of them that survived house fires ... but none with contents that survived. Just as well save the $$$ and put your guns in a hall closet with a lock on the door. For fire purposes anyway. For theft you're better off hiding the good guns at various locations in the home when you're away and leave some disposable decoy junkers in a well identified gun closet. Anything made by Mossberg or Harrington & Richardson will do decoy duty just fine. The burglars will take the decoy crap and stop looking for guns. Oh ... and don't forget to leave that old Winows 95 laptop on the computer desk when you go on holidays. And the power saw with worn out bearings ... leave that front and center on the workbench. The pawnbroker should get a good laugh when Mr Meth-head shows up with all that stuff. :D Junkie solves your junk problem. Less hassle than having a yard sale. Insurance buys you a new door/window and they'll be glad to pay replacement cost for more decoys.

For home invasion I suggest bear traps instead of a sawed off shotgun. Ever fired a shotgun with no ear protection inside a small room? "Uhh ... what planet am I on?" Cripple burglars rather than kill them. Give the bastard something to remember you by. He'll be screaming to get into handcuffs when the cops arrive.

Come here for more tips on protecting yourself and your property. Glad to help. No charge. This time.
 
Are there any safes that actually fit bolt action rifles with longer barrels (ex 22-26")?

Ive got a couple of 25" bbl rifles in my liberty... they just barely make it.. Ive got maybe 1/4" of clearance between the crowns and the shelf on the top of the safe..

what doesnt fit in there are my 28" barreled semi auto shotguns..
 
Nothing beats a purpose-built vault! I sold Fort Knox safes on the side for 25y when the original owners ran the show. They are Still nothing like them in today's market. Had 4 survive home invasions (incl one in my own house 45y ago) and 3 survive substantial fires with only one having some water damage to the contents from an overzealous fireman. Most of what I see today are not much better than a steel door on a closet with a good dead bolt. They might deter a couple kids who break into your house, most who are more interested in you liquor cabinet than your guns.
 
I have one I would like to sell. I don't know if it will fit your needs, but it holds 12 long guns, plus ammo. It is 64"x18"x28" deep. Close to DFW
 

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Determine what size safe will fit in the area you want to place it and get one as large as will fit until weight becomes the limiting factor. If you have the space multiple safes may be easier to deal with than a single larger one.

A minefield not covered by fire will be breached by a trained and determined enemy, a safe is no different.
 
I don’t know about where you are but around here the best prices are at a gun show. Find a local one and go and you can look at the various models.

Agree on get bigger than you need. I have a 55 gun safe and it is quite full with less than that number.
 
One thing that I have found is to forget about the push button electric combination. I know of at least 6 of them that have died in the last few years where the owners had to resort to cutting the side open to get anything out.

As for a fire rating, they are not rated to be in a fire that burns the house to the ground, but to sustain being in a room that is taking fire damage.
 
I built my own main safe to suit my longer rifles, weighs over 200 kg(440lb) and I very much doubt that a non-dedicated person would be able to get into it. It holds fifteen comfortably but I should have made it bigger, currently has twenty five squeezed in. It may be cheaper to find someone who can weld to make one if you have longer firearms
Gumpy
 
First, as others have said, buy at least double the size you think you will need. If there is room left over, the wife will have plenty to fill it up.

Second, read up on the UL ratings. Most are "personal security containers," which means thin sheet metal sides easily cut open with minimal effort with simple hand tools like a hammer and a sharp chisel. A battery powered grinder can open one up in a couple of minutes.

Tool rated such as TL30 rated safes will slow the varmints down some. If it is slow and a hassle, maybe they will leave it alone if they are trying to get in and out quickly.

Only use a mechanical dial. Battery powered key pads will leave you stranded sooner or later. Of course, if it is a cheap rated personal storage container, cutting it open is cheaper and faster than calling the locksmith.

Having lived through a major house fire as a boy, photos are the things I miss that were lost in that fire. Today, photos should be scanned and kept in the cloud or on a small storage device. A few terabytes only costs a few hundred bucks. Keep it stored somewhere away from home. Family photos are by far the most precious memories.
 
More then you want to spend on a safe from your post. But if you want a "Safe" and not a "Residential Security Container" your choices are: Gaffunder, Brown & Amsec.



 
I bought my gun safe in Houston from Champion gun safe. The delivered it and set up at no additional charge. Been very happy with the safe.
 
Serious recommendation here...

NEVER buy a gun safe the size that you currently need.. always buy bigger than you think you will ever need..

also.. understand that whatever a gun safe advertises its capacity as.. cut that number by at least 1/3... depending on what type of guns you have, whether or not they have optics on them, etc.. you might need to cut that number by 1/2..

I have a 48 gun liberty "fat boy".. If I get really aggressive and play magical levels of tetris in there I can get MAYBE 32 long guns in the safe...

When I bought it I thought "I'll never fill this thing".. but I caught it on a great sale (on 50% off clearance when Gander Mountain was going out of business)... so I bought it..

Now the safe is full.. I have a 8 gun cabinet that is full.. and there are another dozen or so firearms scattered all around the house (hidden in coffee tables, bed side tables, in closets, in desk drawers, in the bed footboard, etc..etc.. and Im considering buying another 48 gun safe so that I can consolidate the collection...
Best advice so far.

Keep in mind there will always be things other than firearms that really should be kept in a Safe. Valuable jewelry, legal papers, etc.
 

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