Forum group buy for a knife

I will let this run for another couple of weeks and see if there is any concensus on design and if it is still multi choice then that is what we will go with.
 
Friends, I encourage you to get the micarta handle option if you want it non-slip if wet or bloody. Having your trophy made into grips later is a cool option and the bushcraft safari knife handles come off easily. I’ve contemplated giraffe bone, buffalo, warthog tusk, mopani wood, and other options.

It’s a great knife, but surely all of them are. If you’ve never owned a scandi ground blade before you’ll be happy to know they are the easiest knife to sharpen ever. If you sharpen them the normal way (harder) you’ll put a secondary bevel on them ruining the edge. Read up on how to sharpen a scandi before you use a stone or strop on one from any maker.
 
It seems that those that have answered are all that are going to, so will go with individual choice of the options noted and at the prices noted plus any upgrades wanted from the standard Acacia (Blackwood) handles.
If those who want to confirm an order would email me ( vongruff@gmail.com )with knife choice and any upgrades along with name and shipping address please. (with screen name as well so I can recognise who I am talking to (y))
Will leave off starting any knives till I close the offer at the end of the month.
 
It seems that those that have answered are all that are going to, so will go with individual choice of the options noted and at the prices noted plus any upgrades wanted from the standard Acacia (Blackwood) handles.
If those who want to confirm an order would email me ( vongruff@gmail.com )with knife choice and any upgrades along with name and shipping address please. (with screen name as well so I can recognise who I am talking to (y))
Will leave off starting any knives till I close the offer at the end of the month.

Email sent to you. Thank you for the offer.
 
Email sent. Thanks for doing this.
 
Email sent!

You know, the only problem with Garry's knives is the NZ postal packaging....my wife has seen too many and now recognizes when I've ordered another one :D
 
All emails replied to
 
Email sent!

You know, the only problem with Garry's knives is the NZ postal packaging....my wife has seen too many and now recognizes when I've ordered another one :D

Well Cole, Garry has a solution for that problem and I am taking advantage of it. Garry also makes some very nice kitchen knives. I know my wife appreciates a good sharp knife in the kitchen, so I ordered a few of these:
Going to go with a black micarta handle on 4 knives and not getting the clever (I'm afraid what my wife would do with it).
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I've received a couple of emails from members here about Scandi knives and in particular, what to do with the one that Garry makes. Here was my reply for all your reference:

Question: how do I sharpen a scandi. Do I introduce a secondary bevel by using a stone to keep it sharp?

My answer:
Any sharpening system or any stone will ruin a scandi. Once ruined (a secondary bevel) it will cost you $50 to have the hardened blade reshaped to make it a scandi again. That's not fun. Once its not a scandi, then what was the point of buying the scandi, right? The gigantic amount of metal that must be removed going back 1/2" or more up the knife's edge all has to be ground again to make a secondary bevel go away once its there. Like a day's work and maybe an ounce of metal must be removed. Crazy.

For a scandi, the killer super-awesome thing about them is they are usually tool steel (yours from Von Gruff is very high quality tool steel) and they take a razor edge again with a strop so easily you'll never need to use a stone on the knife. You need/want a strop bat. 4 sides. 4 pieces of leather. It comes with compound. One side is 400 grit compound. The next 800. Next 1200. Next is pure leather for final scalpal sharpening. It is easy because you just strop flush with the whole scandi edge so you put no bevel on the knife edge. It also removes patina from the whole scandi edge. A few minutes is all it takes to keep it up. The strop bat is all I use on any knife once its sharpened, regardless if its a filet, scandi, or traditional bevel knife. An ounce of prevention (strop) is worth a pound of cure (a stone). A barber's strop will ruin a scandi though, anything that flexes while you strop will put a bevel on the knife ruining a scandi edge. Here's a great strop: https://jreindustries.com/sharpening

A scandi is the easiest knife in the world to work with. It takes a razor edge. It can be touched up with a fixed strop or even a glass car window's edge in a pinch. It has a TON of metal behind the edge so it will take way more shock without edge damage too. You also don't need to know what angle to sharpen a knife with a scandi. The edge profile of the whole scandi is held FLUSH to the strop so you are polishing perhaps 1/2" or 5/8" of material, not just a micro bevel. It's so easy anyone can do it. If you don't read this and you sharpen your scandi any other way, you've made it into just another knife and it will get duller and duller as you change and grow a microbevel (secondary bevel) until it has no cutting surface at all. Play by the easy rules and enjoy the sharpest, most durable, easiest to sharpen knife design ever made.

I hope this helps you out!
 

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That is a superb piece of advise for sharpening the scandi grind blade. I made my own stiff strop many years ago for the same reason as oposed to the flexible type so thanks @rookhawk , I apareciate your involvment and advise on this very important subject.

Edit to add that I mostly use the black and green compound and have a small 6 in model I made for sharpening if needs be away from the shed.
 
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@ Rookhawk: Thanks for the great explanation. Will order a strop bat and some compound and get after it.
 
Email sent!

You know, the only problem with Garry's knives is the NZ postal packaging....my wife has seen too many and now recognizes when I've ordered another one :D
OH OH!!!
 
That is a superb piece of advise for sharpening the scandi grind blade. I made my own stiff strop many years ago for the same reason as oposed to the flexible type so thanks @rookhawk , I apareciate your involvment and advise on this very important subject.

Edit to add that I mostly use the black and green compound and have a small 6 in model I made for sharpening if needs be away from the shed.

Not to dictate business practices to a gentleman that knows knives far better than I ever will, but I can't help but recommend that everyone order knives with removable scales. Someday neglect will cause rust and you'll love getting those scales off. Someday you'll have some memento of a hunt (ivory, bone, wood) that you'd love to put on instead of factory scales. Someday a scale will break from misuse and you'll love being able to save the blade and easily add a new handle. I cant see a reason not to retain that flexibility when Von Gruff can offer that on any knife he makes. :)
 
With some exception though :):):)
 

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