Zastava? Any good?

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Some interesting info on the Renaissance wax.

"Earlier wax polishes based on beeswax and carnauba wax either contained acids or became acidic over time. Renaissance Wax is based on more stable microcrystalline waxes refined from crude oil.

Renaissance Wax contains polyethylene waxes. Some other microcrystalline waxes intended for conservation use do not contain these."


https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

It's likely most of this wax is derived from lubricant production using a traditional dewaxing process to improve the cold flow properties. Newer catalytic dewaxing processes rearrange these molecules to ones with better cold flow properties which increases lubricant volume yield.

Renaissance Wax contains polyethylene waxes. Some other microcrystalline waxes intended for conservation use do not contain these.
Mr Zorg
Linspeed is a bit more expensive than tru oil but it all depends on the finish you want. A warm old world oil finish or a glossy finish. The choice is yours and I'm sure you will get a good result no matter what way you go. If you use tru oil you won't be able to use Linspeed later on as tru oil requires the use of a filler before applying it.
When you get a tru oil stock finishing kit that you need to do the job properly it works out to be the same price or dearer than Linspeed..
Cheers mate Bob
 

Rob404

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I've used Tru Oil when re finishing my stocks . A little shiny to start but some super fine steel wool after letting it dry gives me the soft gloss I like
 
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Mr. Zorg

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I have more than one such stock to futz with. I'm going to use the Tru Oil and Renaissance Wax first. If I'm less than happy with that I'll try Lin-speed oil plus the extra boiled linseed oil the Lin-speed oil instructions require to lubricate the steel wool.

TBH I like the stock finish on my Interarms Mark X and Whitworth rifles. It's slightly glossy but appears and feels totally sealed, some sort of polymer is my guess, which I'm thinking the Renaissance Wax should also produce.
 

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The rifles without iron sights are designated American Style by Zastava, their catalog shows that option is available in all the same cartridge chamberings as their Standard LK M70.

My Interarms Mark X and Whitworth rifles have a larger, taller, adjustable rear sight ramp with a blade adjustable for windage. My Zastava badged rifles have a less pronounced rear sight ramp with a blade that folds along its center in addition to being adjustable for windage.

https://zastavaarmsusa.com/product/sporting-rifle-lk-m70/

@ZANA BOTES SAFARI, that was the same age my Father bought a milsurp 6.5X52mm Carcano carbine with 18" barrel and fixed iron sights for me to use alongside him with his milsurp SMLE, where he'd removed the top wood to reduce some weight. All we could find back then was milsurp RN FMJ 6.5X52mm ammunition so I specialized in CNS shots like you indicated with your kudu. My father used .303 British Remington Core-lokt. Like you mine was just enough rifle to keep me out of trouble and the metal buttplate didn't bother my beginning teenager spindly frame. A few years later I asked my dad if I could try shooting his .303. That was and to this day still is the only time I ever shot that rifle.:) My gut has more padding now, my shoulder - not so much.
 

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I have more than one such stock to futz with. I'm going to use the Tru Oil and Renaissance Wax first. If I'm less than happy with that I'll try Lin-speed oil plus the extra boiled linseed oil the Lin-speed oil instructions require to lubricate the steel wool.

TBH I like the stock finish on my Interarms Mark X and Whitworth rifles. It's slightly glossy but appears and feels totally sealed, some sort of polymer is my guess, which I'm thinking the Renaissance Wax should also produce.
Mr Zorg
Enjoy futzing around with your stocks.i find it very cathartic playing with timber
20200201_135424.jpg


My lowall finished with Linspeed and Gilleys gun polish wax.
Cheers mate Bob
 

Rule 303

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With wooden stocks and any steel that is not ceracoted on any of my rifles I use Gilly Stephensons gun polish wax. Unlike oils it seals the timber and does not wash off or allow moisture to penetrate. I take the rifle out of the stock and wax all surfaces. The stocks then do not absorb any moisture so are stable. Same with the steel, stainless or not. No rust problems even in the gun safe since I have done this.

Daga Boy you must of had some crappy synthetic stocks. Even the shitty plastic stock on my Rem 700SPS in 375H&H is OK. Absorbs a bit of recoil. It is 2 lb lighter than the CZ550 in 375H&H I had and felt recoil is way less and just as accurate.
 

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Good morning gentleman, I've stumbled apon a .375 for sale it's a zastava. Does anyone have any experience with these rifles? Quility or concerns? I'm strongly considering purchasing this rifle if there isn't a reason not to.

Thank you all for sharing your experiences.
Great rifles, I own one in a .223 caliber. I have never had any problems with it and I shoot it quite allot. As mentioned above, for the right price, just buy it, can you ever have too many guns????
 

Skinnersblade

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Great rifles, I own one in a .223 caliber. I have never had any problems with it and I shoot it quite allot. As mentioned above, for the right price, just buy it, can you ever have too many guns????
I’ve bought two zastavas sense I posted this thread the mentioned.375 and then a 9.3x62
 
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With wooden stocks and any steel that is not ceracoted on any of my rifles I use Gilly Stephensons gun polish wax. Unlike oils it seals the timber and does not wash off or allow moisture to penetrate. I take the rifle out of the stock and wax all surfaces. The stocks then do not absorb any moisture so are stable. Same with the steel, stainless or not. No rust problems even in the gun safe since I have done this.

Daga Boy you must of had some crappy synthetic stocks. Even the shitty plastic stock on my Rem 700SPS in 375H&H is OK. Absorbs a bit of recoil. It is 2 lb lighter than the CZ550 in 375H&H I had and felt recoil is way less and just as accurate.
@Rule 303 That Gilleys gun polish wax is good shit mate I use it all The time.
Bob
 

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@Rule 303 That Gilleys gun polish wax is good shit mate I use it all The time.
Bob
Bob even sent them a nice email saying that it was better than any other crap he had used! Sounds like a good product but with shipping to NZ it probably makes more sense for me to drive to Lower Hutt and buy a tin of Renaissance Wax.
 
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Bob even sent them a nice email saying that it was better than any other crap he had used! Sounds like a good product but with shipping to NZ it probably makes more sense for me to drive to Lower Hutt and buy a tin of Renaissance Wax.
@ZG47
Might m ale more sense but why settle for crap when you can have the best.
The b beauty of it is a little goes a long way and it lasts for ages.
That was a nice gesture. You can always see if you can become the NZ distribution agent.
Bob
 

ZG47

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@ZG47
Might m ale more sense but why settle for crap when you can have the best.
The b beauty of it is a little goes a long way and it lasts for ages.
That was a nice gesture. You can always see if you can become the NZ distribution agent.
Bob
Noted. Will ask them to quote for despatch of two tins to my location, not much point in ordering just one.
 

Daga Boy

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With wooden stocks and any steel that is not ceracoted on any of my rifles I use Gilly Stephensons gun polish wax. Unlike oils it seals the timber and does not wash off or allow moisture to penetrate. I take the rifle out of the stock and wax all surfaces. The stocks then do not absorb any moisture so are stable. Same with the steel, stainless or not. No rust problems even in the gun safe since I have done this.

Daga Boy you must of had some crappy synthetic stocks. Even the shitty plastic stock on my Rem 700SPS in 375H&H is OK. Absorbs a bit of recoil. It is 2 lb lighter than the CZ550 in 375H&H I had and felt recoil is way less and just as accurate.
Thanks a lot. I had a synthetic stock on my .458WM. The brand is common in this part of the world. It cracked from shooting off the bench - which is apparently also quite common, so I switched to a standard CZ550 stock (hogsback style) with double cross bolts. The CZ stock is known for its tendency to rotate upwards, smacking one in the face. This is a problem when shooting off a bench, but I find it fine when shooting offhand.
 

Rule 303

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Thanks a lot. I had a synthetic stock on my .458WM. The brand is common in this part of the world. It cracked from shooting off the bench - which is apparently also quite common, so I switched to a standard CZ550 stock (hogsback style) with double cross bolts. The CZ stock is known for its tendency to rotate upwards, smacking one in the face. This is a problem when shooting off a bench, but I find it fine when shooting offhand.

Sorry bloke but yes I do know some of those cruddy stocks. Have seen them split in 375 H&H up. They tend to be hard plastic with little give in them. IMHO they are best for light 30 cals (30-06) and smaller or the fire pit. By light I mean light recoiling.

Yes those Hogs back stocks do recoil up and IMHO should be confined to the same as those hard plastic stocks. That is just me.
 
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Sorry bloke but yes I do know some of those cruddy stocks. Have seen them split in 375 H&H up. They tend to be hard plastic with little give in them. IMHO they are best for light 30 cals (30-06) and smaller or the fire pit. By light I mean light recoiling.

Yes those Hogs back stocks do recoil up and IMHO should be confined to the same as those hard plastic stocks. That is just me.
@Rule 303
The plastic stock on my savage/ Stevens seems to be holding up to my stoutly loaded Whelen with zero effect. Can't say about other brands.
Bob
 

Rule 303

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@Rule 303
The plastic stock on my savage/ Stevens seems to be holding up to my stoutly loaded Whelen with zero effect. Can't say about other brands.
Bob

Bob it may well do if it has some flex in it. I have seen the hard plastic stocks with no flex split from 338WM loads so have no faith in them for anything above 30-06.
 

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