Want To Buy Reloading Case Trays

[Hornedfrogbbq]

All, I am getting into reloading and slowly putting my bench of equipment together. I am looking to buy trays that hold cases for a .450ne, .470ne and a .500ne. If anyone has some they would like to get rid of, please let me know.

 

[Mtn_Infantry]

eBay/Amazon/Etsy is your friend

 

[Andrew NOLA]

Thread 'Loading block for large diameter cases like Rigby, etc.'

Mar 10, 2026

I was looking for a solution for loading blocks for 416 Rigby and 475 Turnbull and 50–110, all large diameter cases

I found mintWorxs tools on the web and just got the loading blocks that I ordered from them. All I did when I ordered them is put a note in on the order that I wanted one for win mags, one for 416 Rigby and one for 50–110. They figured it out.

They’re 3-D printed, pre-numbered and fit the cases great and they’re deep enough so that the cases won’t fall over. I ordered three and they are very reasonably priced.

When I run into a piece of gear that works, I will sometimes...

• Andrew NOLA
• Replies: 2
• Forum: Reloading

• 

Search for loading block for large diameter cases if the link above does not work

 

[1r4rc]

20 ga reloading trays also work

 

[Rifleman97]

I make reloading trays out of walnut, just need to let me know the diameter at the base you want, dimensions, how many cases you want, and if you want extra room on the sides or not for stuff like primers or bullets. Here’s one I just made for myself for .473 bf

The finish is lacquer, as it doesn’t leave any residue and doesn’t corrode brass. I left extra room on the side for me to set my pen on.

Price varies depending on what you want but figure around $50 base, up to 100 max, plus shipping.

If you want cheaper I can make them out of cheaper woods as well to get the cost down another $10, or another $20 if you supply whatever wood you want me to use.

I make these as a hobby, not for a profit, so no pressure if you’re not interested. Turnaround is a couple weeks to get finished and shipped out, as finish requires some cure time between coats.

 

[Russ16]

I make reloading trays out of walnut, just need to let me know the diameter at the base you want, dimensions, how many cases you want, and if you want extra room on the sides or not for stuff like primers or bullets. Here’s one I just made for myself for .473 bf


View attachment 774547

The finish is lacquer, as it doesn’t leave any residue and doesn’t corrode brass. I left extra room on the side for me to set my pen on.

Price varies depending on what you want but figure around $50 base, up to 100 max, plus shipping.

If you want cheaper I can make them out of cheaper woods as well to get the cost down another $10, or another $20 if you supply whatever wood you want me to use.

I make these as a hobby, not for a profit, so no pressure if you’re not interested. Turnaround is a couple weeks to get finished and shipped out, as finish requires some cure time between coats.

I’ve been thinking of doing the exact same!

Do you drill the holes before finishing or after. I’ve been trying to think through how to keep the finish out of the holes.

I assume you mark out the hole centers and then use a drill press.

 

[Rifleman97]

I’ve been thinking of doing the exact same!

Do you drill the holes before finishing or after. I’ve been trying to think through how to keep the finish out of the holes.

I assume you mark out the hole centers and then use a drill press.

I don’t mark out the hole centers, I have a basic jig that holds the block in place at precise distances.

I’ve tried both, I found that if you drill after you put finish on, you risk peeling up the finish around the hole and it’s difficult to repair. So I generally drill them first.

I also drill the holes a hair larger for tolerance, but the finish I use is from a spray gun, and doesn’t really get into the holes much and the little that does, doesn’t affect fit. When it does, I’ll just clean out the existing hole with the correct sized bit after the finish, as it’s not really a risk after the hole has been started.

I also drill a smaller through hole to let spilled powder out the bottom to not cause the cases to sit funny

Another thing I’ve done is do an entirely through hole, and then glue a thin piece of wood to the bottom to get even depth. This changes the look but if done with contrasting woods like walnut with a maple bottom it can look quite nice.

This is the bottom of the one pictured above, but before the finish was done being applied, so is not grain filled or buffed at the point this pic was taken

 

[Russ16]

Interesting thanks!

 

[Rifleman97]

Interesting thanks!

I’m at my workshop now, so here’s a pic of one of my setups. I’ve got a homemade jig for drilling at the ends of large pieces that also serves as a shelf and storage, and since my drill press has a wood top I can simply screw in a block to act as a reference for the Y axis, and then line up to the pencil line to get the X axis. Very simple jig, to the point I’d hesitate to even call it a jig.

The wooden block is screwed down (not in frame) in various holes that locate it, and then I line up the left side of the reloading block to the various pencil lines. When I change spacings I just sand the area with some 400 grit sandpaper and make new lines using a square and tape measure. Once I have the row down I can move the spacer block backwards the desired amount and repeat. Very fast, very simple.

Please ignore the mess, was doing a lot of drilling today and didn’t have time to vacuum up, will do that next week.

 

[Rumrunner]

Friend printed me a couple similar to the Lyman stadium tray. He said it was really easy. If you know someone with a 3D printer they might do one for you.