School me on M98 actions

You could look for a JC Higgins mod 50 30-06 or 270 as a donor rifle, they used FN mauser actions for those rifles. I used one a few years ago to build my wife's custom 257 Roberts!
 
Do you still have the Witworth?
How sloppy is the bolt fit?
I guess it would depend on what you call "sloppy." I just went and checked my bolt guns. Both of my Mark X's (Mauser 98 type) have more wobble than my 700, 7 and 70 PF models. It is a characteristic of the design. That does not change anything about what I said about the reliability of the Mauser CRF being superior to the PF actions. The bolts all.slide in smoothly. It probably won't make a difference on a deer or elk hunt, but if the animal will stomp, gore, bite or crush me, I'm going with a CRF action. A little wobble when the bolt is open makes no difference at all.
 
For what it's worth, Simpsons limited has 640's and 46's (I believe that's the number) FN auctioned 9.3x57's for less than $500. Some are on 9.3x62 as well.
 
Regarding fit and bolt movement when pulled rearward,
The modern Zastava Mauser 98 Interarms Whitworth is fairly tight, for a Mauser.
Herr Mauser designed in the tolerances for battlefield condition.

Husqvarna 640 (M98 large ring FN Belgium actions) are similarly tight. I really like these. As others have said, Pre WW1 German DWM made rifles are the best in terms of tight Mauser tolerances, and smoothness. 1908 Brazilian DWM contract and 1909 Argentine DWM contract M98 is superb. I had a 1908 Brazilian DWM 7x57, all matching that in my foolish youth I sold. Those actions alone, with only minimal pitting below the wood line, go for at least $500 probably more.

Austrian Waffenfabrik Steyr 1912 vintage M98s are exceptional. That is what I have built into a 35 Whelen.

The JC Higgins Model 50 can be had with nice FN actions, but the bottom metal and trigger is a different setup than M98. I'm not a big fan of JC Higgins Model 51.

The Santa Barbara M98 I've had was a rough actions, rougher than any Zastava on a bad day. They can all be smoothed up.

I am just an amateur gun guy, but I have confirmed this process with my gunsmith/gunmaker. It's basically his process as well. I read this in Rifle magazine many years ago.
He built a Zastava M70 9.3x62mm. That rifle was extremely smooth.

They all can be smoothed up with 600 then 800 grit wet dry sandpaper with gun oil on a bolt raceway polishing tool (Brownells).
Remove the trigger and firing pin. DO NOT apply abrasive paste to the locking lugs. Check and keep the receiver locking lug recesses clean.
You don't want to alter the headspace.

Run the bolt raceway polishing tool with wet dry sandpaper and very slight oil.through the action at least 300 cycles
(watch a good hunting video while in your chair with a bit of whiskey).

Wash out thoroughly with a lot of extremely hot water (140 -180 degrees). I boil water in a large tea kettle. You want to flush and heat up the action with flowing water, so hot that you need gloves. It will dry in a couple of minutes

Then apply Flitz or the smallest grit valve grinding compound available to the raceways, but not the locking lugs recesses. insert the bolt and work the action at least 500 times.
Watch another good hunting video while working the bolt in the action. If appropriate, enjoy another whiskey (in moderation).

Keep the grinding paste out of the lug recesses. Check every few dozen strokes.
Hot wash again, you want the metal so hot you can't handle it with bare hands. Being a chef of 35 years, I can handle a bit of heat, but I use chemical resistant gloves.
When dry, then apply a light coast of your preferred gun oil.
I use CLP, there are many good products in the market today.
Reinstall the trigger and firing pin assemblies.


If I were to build a 9x62, I would search for, in order:

- FN marked action with Belgium proofs and FN roll mark

- unmolested Husky 640

_Zastava built M98,
whether Interarms, Remington 798 or Zastava M70.
As I understand, these are built on FN M98 type tooling. This information is from several noted gun writers over the decades.

I hope this is helpful.
Thank you
 
I guess it would depend on what you call "sloppy." I just went and checked my bolt guns. Both of my Mark X's (Mauser 98 type) have more wobble than my 700, 7 and 70 PF models. It is a characteristic of the design. That does not change anything about what I said about the reliability of the Mauser CRF being superior to the PF actions. The bolts all.slide in smoothly. It probably won't make a difference on a deer or elk hunt, but if the animal will stomp, gore, bite or crush me, I'm going with a CRF action. A little wobble when the bolt is open makes no difference at all.
I’m resistant to the wobble because my JC Higgins would bind if cycled too quickly and I guess I incorrectly assumed it was due to poor fitment. Perhaps it just required a little TLC while watching some hunting vids.
 

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Here's a tip to help 98 Mauser cycle smoother. Slightly round the forward corners of sear on cocking piece. This allows it to effortlessly line up with tang channel as bolt is closed. Below is view of modified sear on cocking piece and view of tang channel that sear enters when bolt is closed.
20251001_185311.jpg

20251002_001208.jpg
 
For what it's worth, Simpsons limited has 640's and 46's (I believe that's the number) FN auctioned 9.3x57's for less than $500. Some are on 9.3x62 as well.
One might want to stay clear of the 46-model if memory serves they were all built on Mauser M96 rather then M98.
 
I’m resistant to the wobble because my JC Higgins would bind if cycled too quickly and I guess I incorrectly assumed it was due to poor fitment. Perhaps it just required a little TLC while watching some hunting vids.
I would say that if a bolt binds when being cycled quickly it has a serious problem beyond the design, and one that would disqualify it as a dangerous game weapon. That is not typical of the Mauser 98 action. Being able to cycle a rifle fast in a charge is a requirement when dealing with creatures that will kill you.
 

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