Ruger 77 Alaskan Trigger Replacement

Beck

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Has anyone replaced the trigger on their Ruger 77? I am considering replacing the triggers on mine as they are noticeably different than my CZs and Sakos. What trigger should I replace the original with?
 
Is it the older Alaskan? If so, Ruger has a new(ish) LC-6 trigger that works for all M77 rifles. I sent in an older 2000ish MK II that had been abused by it's previous owner and it came back from Ruger better than new with this new trigger. I paid $10 for a spring to get a lighter pull and it is honestly one of the best triggers I've felt. If it's a newer one that already has this trigger, I'd suggest trying the spring and seeing how you feel about it after that.
 
I also replaced a trigger spring, with a spring I had handy, but it’s only down to 3.5#. I put a timney in one of my other Hawkeye rifles, and it will get light but it has creep that I haven’t been able to get rid of, and it drives me crazy. That was 3 Hawkeye rifles ago, now I just replace spring as it’s super easy to do. I will get another spring for my Alaskan 9.3 to get it down where I want it. Just have to find the right one, which so far I don’t know where to get one. So following. 2# is where I want to be
 
I also replaced a trigger spring, with a spring I had handy, but it’s only down to 3.5#. I put a timney in one of my other Hawkeye rifles, and it will get light but it has creep that I haven’t been able to get rid of, and it drives me crazy. That was 3 Hawkeye rifles ago, now I just replace spring as it’s super easy to do. I will get another spring for my Alaskan 9.3 to get it down where I want it. Just have to find the right one, which so far I don’t know where to get one. So following. 2# is where I want to be
I got mine from Ernie the gunsmith. I haven't checked mine but I'd say it's about 2.5lb- as light as I'd want it for hunting. I've also heard that if it's still heavier that you want with the new spring, you can clip part of a coil off until you get what you want, but I haven't tried it. My LC-6 trigger has zero creep, which surprised me for a factory trigger
 
Don't know if they make one for yours, but Jard makes one for Ruger Hawkeye Mark II I think. I put a Jard 2.5# in my Ruger No. 1 and am very happy. Lot of Ruger No. 1 guys use Jard.
 
I own several Ruger m77 (Mk1, MkII and Hawkeye).

The newer Hawkeye has the LC-6 trigger and a simple spring replacement will give you a lighter trigger.

I replaced a MkII factory trigger with a Timney. My gunsmith told me the the Ruger trigger is fairly easy to do a trigger job on and actually makes for a nice trigger at less cost than a Timney.

The old Ruger Mk1 with the tang safety has an adjustable trigger and you or the gunsmith can adjust it and end up with a fairly nice trigger, without going the replacement route.
 
Many different iterations of the M77 exist (i.e. I, II, etc.) but due to past lawsuits, Ruger triggered-up and many were in the 7.5 lb range (totally unacceptable!) One mfr. sells a replacement spring kit (it's akin to a Mauser or M70 trigger) that gives options of lowering the pull by 2.5-5 lbs. 'Put one (kit-i believe it's 2 springs) in a beautiful 22-250 I got on the trade decades ago (and w/ good mounts, scope and handloads, and running valve lapping compound through the tight action and boltface) the damn 22" sporter is super accurate out to 400 yds (farthest shot on a a varmint taken w/ that compact rig, but it'll likely do better.) In-fact, as a result of that performance, I promptly sold a $1,500 custom hot-rodded 26" heavy bbl Rem (many moons ago) as it made NO sense to tote that around on hot summer days in the long fields! (Owner enjoys plinking steel @ 750 with that rig.)
 
Did you take trigger and sear out to see if there were burrs or rough edges at engagement points? This will cause it sometimes. I have used 600 or 800 grit sandpaper laying on perfectly flat surface and polish edges. Just a thought
 

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