Quality check on handloaded .470 NEs

[Roland Tembo]

Howdie, recently I got me my first double rifle. The deal included some 50 left over ammos from previous safaris.
As far as I can tell these ain't factory loads, so I would like to double check what am I going to shoot.

First of all, I ain't got any .470 reloading equipment nor huge kinetic hammer yet, so removing the bullet and rebuilding each cartridge is not an option.

I can see three different patterns of rounds in my box: a. soft points, brass case WR (are these from Westley Richards?); b. solids, brass case WR; c. solids, shiny case from Federal (are these made from aluminum? Steel?).
Judging from the labels, bullets should be from Woodleigh: FMJ and Weldcore Soft Nose.

As far as I can tell some of the WR brass are quite worn, they seem to be shorter by eye, so they might've been trimmed some couple of times.

Anyway, I was thinking I can check the OAL of each cartridge.
Also I can test each round through a digital scale... since they all share 500g bullets, I expect each cartridge from each subset of ammo should share the same overall weight too, and minimum difference due to different brass between cartridges from subset a. / b. and c.

Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated, thanks for helping.

 

[spike.t]

Does the one on the right even chamber correctly?.....to the naked eye all 3 cases look different at the neck....

 

[grand veneur]

The three cartridges look different and that's why you should be careful with the ammunition provided.

I would first shoot factory loads and see what the cases look like afterwards and then maybe after disassembly all the cartridges supplied, recalibrate them and reload them.

 

[Luvthunt]

It appears the case in the center may be a nickle case ie coated.

 

[AimSmall]

Congratulations! We want to see photos of the rifle!

With reloads of unknown origin:
1. Measure cartridge overall length,
2. Weigh each round,
3. Shake each round to see how full the powder charge is,
4. Be certain each round chambers easily - do not force the cartridge into the chamber,
5. Order reloading gear, including a bullet puller (not hammer),
6. Order factory ammo so you can shoot the rifle,
7. when you receive your bullet puller, disassemble all rounds and dispose of the powder - for fun, weigh the powder and try to identify it
8. Start reloading!

 

[Laniarius]

I have no experience with that cartridge but the same rule applies to any cartridge: like others said, never fire a reload where there's any doubt. I would only fire reloads from a single close friend whose discipline and judgment I would trust as my own (regarding reloads at least...).

It's just not worth it, to risk your newly acquired rifle or yourself. It's great to have the shells and bullets and there's a lot of value just in those.

 

[Huvius]

WR is for Wolfgang Romey.

Do you have a press and shell holder?
If so, you can use a tubing flare tool (the vise part of course) to hold the bullet while you upstroke the press to pull the bullet.

 

[deewayne2003]

Well none of them appear to be crimped so depending on neck tension you could use a couple pieces of flat copper as padding for the jaws of pliers.

Grip the bullet is the padded jaws and twist the casing in the opposite direction, twist as you pull and the bullets should come out fairly easy.

I’ve done this with various .470 loads to salvage the brass, just run them through the sizing die enough to reshape the neck.

 

[Roland Tembo]

Unfortunately I still have to build me a handloading station. I ain't had the need to go handloading previously. Now of course the price of a couple of .470 factory load boxes are gonna cover all the costs from press, dies and whatever. I am looking into RCBS Rockchucker #IV Supreme and stuff.
Pulling the bullet without the equipment would address the question "are these reliable loads" but then I would end up with some useless reloading components so... it's probably better for me to wait to get all the stuff I need, pull this bullet and reload them myself.

 

[Roland Tembo]

So, just a quick update here.

Got me my shell holder and bullet puller die with appropriate sized collet from RCBS.
After bit of a struggle since the RCBS shell holder wouldn't fit my Lee Cast Press and had to "machine" that thing the horrible way around with a Dremel and wrong bits just to try and make it fit-ish... I managed to unload the cartridges. I also managed to accurately weight and size every cartridge, store every data, inventory everything.

Now, rounding up, most of the cartridges averaged 110 grains of cilyndrical powder, even thou I found some variation in color and lenght between each of the three batch of cartridges. My best guess would be either IMR 7828, Norma MRP or Hogdgon H1000... you get any idea from these pictures?

I don't really know what to do with this powder now, either keep it and re-use for load development when I get proper dies and shell holder in the future or trash it. Charges where almost consistent with 35 rounds averaging 110 grains and 15 rounds down to 108 grains- so maybe I could reload starting from 105 grains rounds upward?

 

[grand veneur]

You cannot classify a powder based on its appearance. The size of the grains provides vague indications of the burning rate, as does the burning of the powder. Reloading is not a completely safe activity, so that unidentified powder has to be destroyed.

 

[Brandon.Gleason]

I agree. That powder is fertilizer for the lawn, in my opinion. Pull everything down and start over with published data you've loaded yourself with known components. It's not worth blowing up a double over a few hundred dollars of ammo.

 

[DLSJR]

Brandon Gleason nailed it. Spread the powder on your lawn or garden. It makes good fertilizer.

 

[RedTag]

Don’t try to reuse the mystery powder, it’s not worth the risk. The brass and the bullets are the valuable parts. I would chuck that mystery powder in the back garden and start fresh.

 

[Roland Tembo]

Thank you guys, followed your advice and got rid of that powder