Newby arrow help

DoubleLunger

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I've recently returned from my local archery shop and was left a little stumped after what they had to say about a proper arrow setup for hunting plains game in Africa. He basically told me that my current "whitetail hunting" setup would do the trick for the animals that I will be going after. So I was wondering if any AH.com veterans on here could help give me a few pointers.

About my current setup.....Mathews Creed 2013 "Lost" Edition, 70lbs pull. QAD drop away arrow rest. HHA Kingpin 20yd - 80yd adjustable range sight(single pin). Truball MaxPro T-style thumb release. And of course the arrows are Black Eagle "Spartan" fitted with 125gr Slick Tricks fixed 4 bladed broadheads for a total arrow weight of 441 grains.

The game in which I will be pursuing....Kudu, Warthog, Zebra, Baboon, and Black Wildebeast.

I will be doing a combination of spot&stalk as well as from a hide. My guide has informed me and I expect to be taking shots at game from 40 to 60 yds.

So I'm in need of advice on if my current setup will do the trick or if I should step up the arrow weight, etc.

BTW the archery shops exact words....."It's not like they have a steal plate behind their shoulder or anything. A Kudu is like an Elk!"

Just trying to get a jump on things before headed to Namibia in August this year.

Thanks for the help AH members and fellow hunters,

DL
 
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Limcroma Safaris

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DoubleLunger,

I agree for the most part that your current set-up should work well for the majority of plainsgame species that you will be pursuing. At 441 Gr. you are just about at the bottom end of what I would recommend for total arrow weight. The placement of your arrow, and its ability to penetrate are far more important factors than arrow speed for Africa.... Your broadheads are a great choice, and I don't recommend that you need to go out and buy new arrows. However, we usually recommend that our guests shoot an arrow with at least 20% FOC and the heavier the overall arrow, the better. I would not hesitate to recommend an arrow/broadhead as heavy as 650 grains for plainsgame. Heavy duty, fixed blade broadheads are a must, and 2-blade, single bevels are even better! 2 holes in an animal are better than one...

Study the shot placement guide here and practice. It is usually difficult for most first-time African bow hunters to discipline themselves to shoot that far forward on the shoulder of the animal. A few inches behind the shoulder crease and you will miss the lungs on an African plainsgame animal. Remember that you can kill an animal with a field point if it is placed perfectly. The arrow construction and broadhead choices are for the less than perfect shots that we will all make from time to time.

Best of luck on your hunt. Practice and go have fun! Africa is a bow hunter's paradise!
 
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Ryan

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That is a great set up for plains game, don't change a thing. Plenty of power and arrow weight with a great broadhead that many of us have used with success. Put the arrow where in the right spot and it'll probably pass through.
Good hunting.
 

DoubleLunger

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Thank you friends. I have considered switching to a two blade rather than a typical 4 blade as it is to my understanding that this will have less friction loss due to the broadhead having less surface area contact?

I do plan to find out what my FOC% is now that I've found a formula for it online.

If I did decide to move up in arrow and broadhead weight....

......would a heavier insert do the trick? If so then what weight? And what brand of broadhead if I decide to switch to a 2 bladed head?
 

billc

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Your set up is fine and will do the job. I have only ever used slick tricks as there is none that I know of that fly better. They just do the job and you just switch out blades. They will shot flatter with less planning at distance and since I see you have black wildebeest on your list you may need to shot 40 or 50 yds.

If you wanted you could do a heavy arrow but not needed. I shoot fmj 340 with slick tricks and have a short 27" draw and my arrow came in a 480 grains.
 

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......would a heavier insert do the trick? If so then what weight? And what brand of broadhead if I decide to switch to a 2 bladed head?
Yes, and they also make insert screw in weights in 25 grain increments that you can experiment with fairly inexpensively. getting the arrow in any range from 20-30% FOC will be devastatingly effective!

As for 2 blades, there are lots of choices... The Helix by Strickland Archery work really well, as do the Bridgeports from Bishop Archery, and Steelforce. German Kinetics, and Grizzlystiks also make great 2-blade single bevel heads although they are on the pricey side. I'm sure other will also have suggestions, but those are the best performers that we have seen first-hand.
 

Ryan

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If you go with a heavier insert you'll have a weaker spined arrow and may need to use a heavier spined shaft to compensate. If you want more weight for a more efficient arrow go with Easton Full Metal Jackets. Mine with a 125 grain point are 505 grains. At 67 lb draw they're still shooting 267 fps for plenty of energy. You could go for more weight with the Easton Dangerous game inserts too, though I think the weight and speed using FMJ's would be plenty.
Personally I'd stick with Slick Tricks, I'm partial to an X cut on both sides. There's a lot of succesful reports here using them.
 

G Skinner

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If you shoot straight ...you'll be fine ....go have fun !
Glen
 

petrusg

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Your arrow weight might be on the lighter side but sure you will take all the animal mentioned without a problem, what concerns me is the 40-60 yard shots, now thats where the trick comes in..... practice practice practice
 

BigJohnx13

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Your bow have enough Ke (kinetic energy) for a kill. (ps you have not given the speed of you arrows). More animals are taken now with “lighter/under gun“ equipment due to technology advancement where equipment requirement criteria is “out dated”

Just remember the following. The biggest factor affecting a hunt is shot placement. Therefore the first general guideline is always to choose the highest poundage that can still be shot accurately. Accuracy should never be compromised in favour of penetration ability (PA) (or generally referred to as KE or momentum). The target species should then be limited as suggested by your set-up. The meanest arrow that misses a vital organ is going to cause great suffering.

The result of penetration into bone tissue, showed a relationship between weight, speed and penetration (Fast Arrow) that exactly mirrored weight x speed squared, or kinetic energy. Penetration into soft tissue is totally different and there the relationship closely resembled momentum: weight x speed to the power (Heavy Arrow), where momentum is of course weight x speed to the power of x 1.

NB, The problem with defining penetration ability (PA) recommendations is the great many factors influencing it, and the huge variation of penetration in different tissues by projectiles with marginal abilities. In arrow design are included the number of blades, the angle of the blades, the cutting diameter, surface area, and the diameter of the shaft relative to the hunting point's shaft diameter.
Remember. The chisel tips are very strong, and very robust. The main advantage of these tips is their strength. You can break bones with them, and they will still have cutting edges to penetrate flesh thereafter. The cut-on-contact (COC/Mechanical) types are less durable, and may fail on hitting bone. However, their penetration in hide and flesh is by far superior to the chisel nose broadheads.

The following assumptions are made about the hunting point:
1. The larger the point size (cutting diameter), the more difficult it will penetrate.
2. The larger the angle of the blades with the shaft, the more difficult it will penetrate (reaching a maximum at 90°)
3. The more blades it has, the more difficult it will penetrate.
As you can see, slower and lighter arrows lose more speed breaking ribs than faster and heaver ones.

Approximation of energy needed to break a rib per animal mass:
Animal weight KG / energy needed
50 - 19
220- 29
1060- 45

The ideal shot will be in the vitals with enough energy for the arrow to fall out on the other side.
 

DoubleLunger

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Thanks my fellow hunters!

Practice practice and more practice is a huge part of the plan. I typically shoot every day and if not then approximately five days a week.

As of right now I'm not sure what my fps is due to not having access to the equipment that measures the speed of my arrow.

In the meantime I'll be trying to figure out exactly what I need to have more chances of success so that I can practice and be more proficient with the proper equipment.

Thanks all
 

Lee M

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Your good. Don't change anything, especially if it shoots well. My arrow combo was roughly 450 grains and I used slick tricks std 100's. Took kudu, zebra, Nyla's, etc
 

navar

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If you feel confortable with your set up, dont change it much.
But I must say that I will go a bit hevier and will use 2 blade instead of a 4 blade broahead.
Shoot straight and have fun!
 

jeff

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People forget that humans have been killing large animals for thousands of years with primitive tackle. North American natives were taking bison regularly . Now if you don't have the latest and fastest bow with high KE the popular belief is you can't do it cleanly. Most people have no experience with traditional tackle and have started their archery career with modern equipment and believe the advertisers hype. A heavy arrow, coc broadhead put in the right place is what does the job even with low KE.
 

navar

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yes,
You are right and you have the key. Put the arrow in the right place and you will become successful.
But said that, better to do it with the best tackle for the matter if possible.
 

jeff

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Traditional tackle is effective as the guy behind it, limit your range and learn to be proficient, only take ideal shots within your comfort zone. U Tube videos showing cape buff, giraffe and hippo taken cleanly.
 
 

 

 

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