Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by Von Gruff, Aug 23, 2019.
interesting yes, but you have to ask "for what end"?
the answer seems to be "because you can"
what this modification in fact achieves is to drastically reduce the bedding surface a thing that is pretty minimal already.
it would also make bedding harder, as the cutouts at the sides would need clearance in order not to split the stock.
it might also alter the profile where the top of the pistol grip starts making the pistol grip too tight for an ideal hunting rifle.
For looks only.
Wow that makes about as much sense as pockets in you shorts!
I can see the purpose of this operation it removes a knife edge surface which would have no added strength with bedding material and adds a perpendicular surface that that is .125-.150 inch to allow contact with glass bedding material. I seem to remember reading that some model 70’s were splitting stocks this would go a long was to stopping this by almost doubleing the surface area. Just my opinion though.
it is that perpendicular surface that needs clearance on the bedding to avoid splitting.
Looking at that tang before the it was milled the only portion that was suitable for bedding would be the lug under the knife edge. This would allow more surface for glass contact. I have seen tangs done two ways with clearance and with wood removed and glassed in. If it’s to be glassed in it should be done same time as recoil lug up front. I left clearance on my latest build Mauser 98. Some people see that little gap between wood and metal and assume it’s poor wood to metal fit so to keep a tight fit they will glass that area. Which adds strength to help with splitting. The wood to metal fitting in that area needs to be perfect or have clearance or be glassed if not the tang turns into a splitting wedge.
if I read you correctly re the knife edge, you bed underneath there, out to the edge, but the knife should be just above the bedding.
this is what gives a bigger bedding surface to the rear tang.
not having a vertical surface is actually an advantage.
any vertical surfaces in this area should have clearance to protect the stock.really the only vertical surface in contact with bedding should be the rear of the recoil lug.
front,sides and front of the recoil lug should have clearance.
tape is your friend when using epoxy.
use it anywhere you need clearance.
whatever you do, no vertical surface in the tang area should contact, epoxy or no.
the thickness of epoxy used will not stop splitting.
My OWN Winchester Model 70 in .375 HH Magnum had a split stock while my Granddad was the original owner of it in the 1960s. It's been repaired with ( what looks to me like ) plus minus epoxy and stove bolts . I always thought the lack of crossbolts had something to do with it .
They are just making it look like a pre 64 tang. Nothing special about it really. Winchester had, I think 3 variations of the tangs and two were similar to the video.
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