Information for a new reloader

[Hamhock95]

Hello everyone,
I just recently became interested in hunting internationally, and with that has came several purchases of new toys that I'm having trouble finding ammunition for. I'm very interested in learning more about reloading but the lexicon has me pretty confused. Do you all have any recommended reading for someone who's interested in reloading with no prior knowledge? I'm a firm believer in the KISS method so any information no matter how simple would be greatly appreciated.

Happy hunting!

 

[Russ16]

The RCBS reloading manual has a good tutorial in the first few chapters. Hornady does as well.

I learned the basics back before YouTube by following the directions that came with my RCBS starter kit. Then I learned more advanced techniques by subscribing to handloader magazine.

Today there is a lot of information on YouTube. Not all of it good. I would start by looking at the YouTube channels form Hornady, RCBS, and Midway. They have good tutorials. Stick with information from the major manufacturers before you start trying to follow what some random guy says. Learn the basics first just replicating factory loads then you can start to get into the minutia.

It’s a wonderful hobby. Enjoy the journey.

 

[farmer_john]

Like russ said. Youtube and reloading manuals.

And always start on the lower end of a recipe..

But what part of tenn you in? Alot of us are heading to nashville next week

 

[mdwest]

I agree… the RCBS manual is a good starting point… if you buy a “kit” from RCBS to get started, they usually include the manual.

There are tons of videos out on YouTube and more load data than you’ll ever need available online… Russ is correct though… dont spend time listening to some random knucklehead… hit the major manufacturer and distributors channels… they won’t lead you astray…

hand loading is a pretty easy process.. you won’t have any difficulty figuring it out… the key is just to be slow and methodical, and don’t let anything distract you while you’re at the bench… safety trumps everything else…

You can usually find a variety of used reloading manuals online pretty inexpensively.. I’d recommend collecting several… especially if you use a wide variety of bullets or powders….

 

[DaddyFlip]

As it turns out, RCBS has a handy PDF with the KISS part of reloading. Everything else is details, technique, and experience. Here it is for your convenience RCBS Intro Guide. Go to their website and click on the LEARN section and there's some interactive things as well. You can decide if you really want to get into loading from this. RCBS technically doesn't have a reloading manual; it's the Speer bullet manual- pretty good.

There's no substitute for a few manuals in your library. In order, my favorites are Lyman, Sierra, Nosler; reason being they have the best historical and reference information on each cartridge and I like the way their load data is presented. I always have a Lyman manual as I think it includes the clearest information in the best format. The powder and bullet manufacturers all have their load data online now (except Hornady).

I own the Lee and Hornady manuals, but I don't recommend them as a first buy or even a must buy. They are the most heavily commercialized pushing their own products; not bad but there's less useful information unless you are a fanboy. Especially Lee contains a lot of Richard Lee opinion and anecdote that is interesting but not essential. Lee doesn't do their own load data either; it's a compilation of the load data from the powder and bullet manufacturers. Hornady has load data specifically for their bullets, but this can be translated to similar bullets of equal weight.

Despite the manual not being a must buy, there is absolutely nothing wrong with any of the equipment that Lee sells. It's inexpensive, it works, it has a lifetime warranty, and they will make you custom dies and parts inexpensively if you need them just for the asking. You could easily start out with some basic Lee equipment for little money and if you graduate to something more elaborate, you will still use the Lee stuff.

Good luck.

 

[shootist~]

Gunblue490 is a bit long winded at times, but he covers everything in detail.
Time flies! I saved this 9 years ago for a friend to review.

 

[Choupique]

firm believer in the KISS method

Lee's products are made for you. I started reloading with a lee loader (the kind you need a ball peen hammer to use) and a box of bullets, primers, and powder. In total I probably had $100 in all of it. I learned a lot. Im still doing most of my reloading work with a lee hand press.

Buy a lee manual, read it, go from there.

 

[Hamhock95]

I want to thank everyone for reaching out. Nothing beats real experience and the information I've received has definitely led me to getting my head wrapped around this!

 

[MS 9x56]

The one thing I have learned in my journey is not to chase the highest velocity. The greatest benefit to reloading is consistency. That and being able to tailor your loads to a specific game or hunt. The world is your oyster in regards to bullet and powder choices. Plus you can save a little money if you shoot a lot.

 

[Hamhock95]

The one thing I have learned in my journey is not to chase the highest velocity. The greatest benefit to reloading is consistency. That and being able to tailor your loads to a specific game or hunt. The world is your oyster in regards to bullet and powder choices. Plus you can save a little money if you shoot a lot.

I appreciate the advice because in my mind I immediately assumed that pushing the highest velocity would be your optimal loads. However, consistency makes total sense. In regards to the savings, can you still produce good loads and be cheaper than factory loads?

 

[farmer_john]

I appreciate the advice because in my mind I immediately assumed that pushing the highest velocity would be your optimal loads. However, consistency makes total sense. In regards to the savings, can you still produce good loads and be cheaper than factory loads?

You also get better case/barrel life if your not maxing out. Also annealing after firing also helps alot with case life.

 

[shootist~]

... In regards to the savings, can you still produce good loads and be cheaper than factory loads?

Depends on your math. Final per round component costs are easily only about 1/3 of good factory loads - and usually with better accuracy as well.

But... costs of initial investment may take years to recover and that's not including the expense from trying different combinations of bullets and powders - just because you can. Chasing Perfection instead of being satisfied with Good can be it's own rabbit hole.

 

[Boyd Brooks]

I started reloading with a friend from the gun club I belonged to. He had been reloading for 30+ years. I did read a lot of books about the subject as well. If you are a club member or ask around work, you might find a friend to help coach you along also.

 

[forshoes]

For more interaction, check the NRA site for instruction. The NRA does have reloading instructors available and there might be a course close to you to attend.

 

[MS 9x56]

I appreciate the advice because in my mind I immediately assumed that pushing the highest velocity would be your optimal loads. However, consistency makes total sense. In regards to the savings, can you still produce good loads and be cheaper than factory loads?

Yes to both. If you want to optimize velocity you are entering the danger zone. But it is possible safely if you have an understanding of metallurgy and the steel makeup and heat treatment of your particular firearm. Older firearms are more suspect in this case. Modern steels and manufacture can withstand higher pressures. Start low and slow until you gain more knowledge. As far as cheaper goes that depends on the bullets, powders, and cases you choose and the quantities you reload. You can always reload premium bullets cheaper than you can buy them loaded. I wish you well on your journey. Start within book specifications and you will be fine.

 

[steve white]

I am almost opposed to the KISS principle when it comes to reloading. You need to have a sensible understanding of exactly what you are doing and why. Lee Loading had a book on reloading principles that was very down to earth yet comprehensive. Devote time to it, especially when actually reloading. Don't allow distractions, or interruptions. Let loved ones know that this is a safety precaution. Proceed until finished or WRITE DOWN WHERE YOU LEFT OFF. Keep really good comprehensive notes. Be more that a little OCD, and you'll be fine.
You will also discover if it is even for you....
If possible, inherit someone's stash of all things reloading, lol

 

[Russ16]

I appreciate the advice because in my mind I immediately assumed that pushing the highest velocity would be your optimal loads. However, consistency makes total sense. In regards to the savings, can you still produce good loads and be cheaper than factory loads?

Almost all my guns shoot best at about 90% of book max loads. With one a little less than that.

You can really save money on things like pistols where you can get acceptable accuracy for most shooting with very basic components.

With my rifles I have had success loading practice ammo with cheaper components but my best accuracy tends to not be with components that give big savings.

 

[Choupique]

in my mind I immediately assumed that pushing the highest velocity would be your optimal loads.

As others have said, my best accuracy with rifles has always been up near the top of the book loads, generally the powders that give the highest speed at near 100% case fill for a given bullet also give the best accuracy. I have never been able to save much money per round with rifle rounds since I'm usually loading hunting or target bullets. I've never had any issue producing good accuracy with rifle rounds. They seem to always shoot at least as well as good factory ammo and usually a little better. Sometimes much better, but that hasn't been common for me. I don't get into playing with seating depths and changing primers and weighing cases and doing concentrically checks and all that stuff the precision guys do. I'm just trying to make good ammo, and that's easy to accomplish with minimal investment. I never go over book max powder charge, never try to exceed the book velocity, I size my cases a little generously. It's an overall very conservative approach but it rewards you with longer brass life, longer barrel life, a higher degree of safety, and for me a lot of peace of mind that I'm not going to blow myself up chasing an extra 40 fps or a tiny bit less extreme spread.

With pistols, I can't shoot well enough for it to matter, and you can save A LOT of money reloading pistol rounds, especially with cast bullets. Maybe my reloads shoot better than factory ammo, maybe they don't. I'll never find out. They sure are a whole lot cheaper though, especially for things like .45 colt where factory ammo is stupid expensive but components to reload it are relatively very cheap. Ironically, pistol loading is often far more dangerous than rifle reloading. Where most bottleneck rifle cases are difficult to overcharge because you just can't stuff enough slow rifle powder in there to blow them up, you can triple or quadruple charge some old blackpowder pistol cases with blue dot and turn the gun into a grenade. Gotta be careful with those fast powders!

What I've learned is to not get sucked into the mire of needing $10,000 of gear to just load good ammo, which is why I recommended the Lee manual as a starting point. Keeping it simple is kinda their thing.

 

[deewayne2003]

As others have said, the Lee manual is an excellent starting point.

It covers all the bases with pictures as examples.

 

[DaddyFlip]

Ironically, pistol loading is often far more dangerous than rifle reloading. Where most bottleneck rifle cases are difficult to overcharge because you just can't stuff enough slow rifle powder in there to blow them up, you can triple or quadruple charge some old blackpowder pistol cases with blue dot and turn the gun into a grenade. Gotta be careful with those fast powders!

Best defense against this is to load the old blackpowder pistol cases with the holy black - blackpowder. You CAN'T overload them; you fill to the bullet base. Fun to load, funner to shoot (the BOOM and smoke), not quite as funner to cleanup after- just part of it. Makes you wonder if the oldtimers really shot as often as is depicted in the movies.