Fail to fire question

[sestoppelman]

It wont work with the FP spring. Its still the same spring.

 

[Dr Ray]

Maybe the head spacing is out??

 

[bruce moulds]

good point doc.
the way to test for this is first to remove firing pin from bolt.
ideal headspace is when you turn the bolt handle down, the bottom 1/3 of the stroke has a little pressure on the bolt handle to close the bolt.
until that point, the bolt should fall freely on a correctly sized chambered case.
the reason to remove the pin/spring is that all you are then feeling is pressure on the case.
if the bolt goes freely to the bottom, headspace could be excessive, and even if not, you are setting yourself up for a partial of full case head separation when full length sizing.
bruce.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Thanks Bruce, I will check that later tonight.

 

[Hogpatrol]

Take a look at this and make sure you have all the parts. In reference to checking headspace, I'm not up on M70s ejection system but on Remingtons the ejector pin and spring need to be removed to get a good feel for bolt closing resistance.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/winchester-model-70.html

 

[fourfive8]

The M70 CRF ejector is a “standing” type which is fixed to inside of receiver (like a Mauser), so it would have no effect on headspace “feel” or measurement. If you can find a decent gunsmith, the easiest way to check for excess headspace is with a standard “no go” gauge. Most smiths should have a set of “go - no go” gauges for standard mag chambers. And a decent smith shouldn’t charge much if anything for that simple headspace check. Takes about 10 seconds

Also since the 375 HH is a BELTED mag, “feeling” for headspace is a little trickier than doing so on a cart that headspaces on the shoulder. A belted mag headspace “feel” will typically amount to: either it will chamber or it won’t. Which really does nothing to indicate if it is in spec or not.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Thanks guys! I tried what Bruce said and there is resistance when closing the bolt with a sized case but it falls down without it.
Now, being a farmer, I may try to add a shim or washer under the FP spring to add compression, at least till my correct spring comes. What do you guys think?

 

[sestoppelman]

I think you should try the new spring and if it stills gives problem, talk to Winchester or a good smith.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

View attachment 315134

I think you should try the new spring and if it stills gives problem, talk to Winchester or a good smith.

Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Some of my “good” ideas don’t sound so good after a few hours.
I will order the correct springs from MGW tomorrow and if that fails,I will try my new hand primer, then it will see a smith.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I also wonder if my firing pin protrusion is to short as @bruce moulds said and how would I fix that.

 

[sestoppelman]

By letting a smith do it.
Don't put too much stock in the hand primer tool, how the primer is installed is irrelevant, its how its seated that matters. It can be properly seated in a press or a hand job, (LOL) but either way it can be properly done.

Remember what Dirty Harry Callahan told the bad cop. "well you're a good man lieutenant, and a good man always knows his limitations".

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Love Magnum Force!
I’ve been thinking hard on this and wonder why ive never had a FTF on my Remington Or A square brass, luck or something else involved? I loaded them in the same manner as all my loads.

 

[sestoppelman]

Could be brass dimensions, they do vary at times. If nothing else works just discontinue use of problematic brass.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I received the correct spring today. It is a different spring but seems to be correct. The finish is different and its a half inch shorter than the original. I can tell it stiffer by the way the bolt and safety operate. It’s all much stiffer and crisper now.
This spring was made in South Carolina and the rifle was made in Portugal. I wonder if the Portuguese spring was of a lower quality?
I will test fire it as soon as the weather permits it and report back.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I test fired the rifle with new spring installed. Fired 15 rounds with no FTF so it might have fixed it. I won’t know for sure until I get a lot mor rounds through it but I have high hopes.

 

[Forrest Halley]

@Wyatt Smith
I am very interested. Couple of questions if you don't mind.
1. How did you know it was the wrong spring?
2. Approximately how many rounds did you have through the gun before you had FTFs?
I'm currently using PPU and Fed brass in mine. Same caliber and manufacturing plant. This is a bit concerning if it was a low round count. I have maybe 20 or so rounds through my rifle at this point. It's playing second fiddle to a well loved Ruger No 1, but it's a very comfortable fit for me.

 

[fourfive8]

These type problems are always hard to pin down. This thread has covered nearly every possible cause for FTF.... which is not a bad thing!

I’d say having a factory unit with wrong spring would be pretty rare ... but possible. If the spring is too long and/or the wire gauge is too large, it will zig zag “gather” laterally and may impinge upon either the bolt bore or the pin itself or both and cause friction thus slowing what should be the free, accelerating pin movement when released. No matter, I certainly hope the reliability has been restored and the culprit identified.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

Failed to fire from the very beginning. The New Haven rifles use a different spring than the FN rifles, at least the man at Wolff gun springs told that. I’ve only fired 15 rounds with the new spring, so I can’t be sure it’s fixed.

 

[sestoppelman]

Well shoot it more. We are waiting for a final result here!

 

[Wyatt Smith]

It’s deer season. Priorities!