Chainsaws and those who use them

[DaddyFlip]

I run the cheap bar oil, because it’s cheap. Engine oil in a pinch but it doesn’t work as well, slinging off too much.
When it’s pretty cold I will cut the bar oil with diesel for better flow.

I run the cheap because it's "better" and it's in huge supply at the farm store. In the south, I don't guess cold ever gets cold enough to slow down the oil. @Rifleman97 Project Farm video convinced me last year.

The cost of Stihl or Echo bar oil at my farm store is about 22 to 26 dollars, the harvest king is 7.99. A chain for my saw cost $25 and a bar is $60.
With the $14 savings on bar oil I can purchase a brand new chain every two gallons of oil I use or a bar every 4 gallons.
I can’t see the name brand oil making bars and chains last enough longer over the harvest king to ever pay me back on the high cost of the oil.
Shoot, the Shell rotella 15w40 I dump in my pickup and tractors only cost $16 per gallon, and it has a lot tougher job than bar oil does.
The only thing name brand bar oil is, expensive.

Don't tell me we're about to take AH down the oil rabbit hole. I've been down it several times, especially on motorcycle forums. Rotella 15-40 is about the best oil you can put in anything that's not still under warranty. I've got a box full of oil filters (30 I think) that I cut open to decide what's good and what's not (was a fun project the moto world got a lot of kicks from).

All my saws are early 1990's. I run Husky 2-stroke oil because it has the fuel additive/preservative built in - 40:1 with non-ethanol gas. I run cheap, low-vis bar oil; I want the bar to stay wet and loose to keep it cool and keep chips and dust away from the oiler hole. (Things that make you go "Hmmm"... they guy who sells expensive, sticky bar oil also sells chains and bars...?). Not too worried about the little saw with the 16-inch because the oiler is running all the time; it stays wet. The 20-inch bar is an original and I make sure to have a new oiler on that saw that floods the bar. 32-inch Husky and Tsumara light bars cost 160-200 dollars each and they need a lot of oil to keep cutting big hardwood. I nearly burned up my Tsumara 24-inch light bar on pine stumps because Husky oil wasn't flowing like I wanted.

Our 280k '03 4Runner has a spin on filter... I run Mobil1 filter and 5-30 Mobil1 High Mileage. The 100k '22 Lexus GX460 has a filter housing; I run factory filters and Mobil1 Extended Performance 0-20. Both get changed every 5k miles. The internet gurus want you to switch to heavier oil, but I believe in sticking to factory weight and changing at HALF the interval they are forced to recommend these days. I'm having no problems and sleeping well at night.

 

[CBeck]

Sometimes you spend more for a name and not a product

Shhh… don’t let the “scope costs more than the rifle” crowd hear you. They’ll be along shortly to explain low-light performance at high noon.

We go through gallons and gallons on our forestry equipment….top saws, and ground bucking saws

We typically buy whatever bar oil is cheapest by the gallon… They all perform well. And we’re running saws all day long every day in the heat and the dust… probably topping 1600 trees a day

I’m a huge believer in making sure motor oil, gear oil, and bearing grease is the appropriate classification for its purpose

 

[Rifleman97]

Shhh… don’t let the “scope costs more than the rifle” crowd hear you. They’ll be along shortly to explain low-light performance at high noon.

We go through gallons and gallons on our forestry equipment….top saws, and ground bucking saws

We typically buy whatever bar oil is cheapest by the gallon… They all perform well. And we’re running saws all day long every day in the heat and the dust… probably topping 1600 trees a day

I’m a huge believer in making sure motor oil, gear oil, and bearing grease is the appropriate classification for its purpose

I’ve only used one bar oil that was so bad I threw it away before finishing it. It looked like pure rapeseed oil, and was so thin that it leaked like crazy, had no retention on the chain causing it to get really hot really fast, and dulled fast too. Thankfully Harvest King is available local to me, but if I get called to an emergency and it’s -20, it doesn’t really work well. The stihl winter stuff isn’t great either in those super cold temps, but it’s better than the HK there. Lol on the scope costing more than the rifle crowd, that’s the truth. I do notice a bit of a better life between sharpenings with harvest king oil than most of the other cheap oils though.

 

[Daniel Cary]

@Daniel Cary - WOW, now that’s a REAL MAN”s Chainsaw….I couldn’t handle that one —— but ENVY those that can (makes my Stihl 362 & 261 look Iike Kindergarten toys !!

I couldn't either. That 880 & Husky's 3120 I believe are used a lot for milling, or crews last resort for certain applications. Double the weight & sheer size .. 404 chain is indestructible.

120cc is a dirt bike motor.

Inspiring history.

 

[Daniel Cary]

I know, from Brazil or somewhere in SA IIRC. I thought about getting one a couple years ago because I love my 288 so much, but decided if I got another saw it would be a new 572 or maybe even a 500i. The newer technology is really nice.

You have a nice 288! .. I hope you get a chance with the 500. @rookhawk, that's a nice saw, not inexpensive by any means. If you have a dealer close, that's pivotal.

Husqvarna 288XP Chainsaw Review: "A True Husqvarna Classic!"

The Husqvarna 288XP is an 87 cc, 6.1 hp chainsaw that was made between 1988 – 2001. At least, those are the production years for ... Read more

fireandsaw.com

 

[Daniel Cary]

Some down trees "typically suspended" are terrifying ..

 

[Tubby’s Canteen]

The cost of Stihl or Echo bar oil at my farm store is about 22 to 26 dollars, the harvest king is 7.99. A chain for my saw cost $25 and a bar is $60.
With the $14 savings on bar oil I can purchase a brand new chain every two gallons of oil I use or a bar every 4 gallons.
I can’t see the name brand oil making bars and chains last enough longer over the harvest king to ever pay me back on the high cost of the oil.
Shoot, the Shell rotella 15w40 I dump in my pickup and tractors only cost $16 per gallon, and it has a lot tougher job than bar oil does.
The only thing name brand bar oil is, expensive.

I use the same logic Wyatt aprils super Flo is the cheap brand up here

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I use the same logic Wyatt aprils super Flo is the cheap brand up here

I think I’ve used super Flo, and super S, Mystic and a bunch of others that come and go.
Harvest King is a pretty big big budget lubricant name around here. I’ve used several of their products with great satisfaction.

 

[HankBuck]

I use the same logic Wyatt aprils super Flo is the cheap brand up here

@Tubby’s Canteen since a lot of my “Stihl” brand Bar Oil ends up dripping out into my chainsaw case —- maybe I should try a bargain brand too? I do use their Platinum synthetic oil to mix with the gas, they double the warranty if you do and I guess I also fell for the “marketing”. Since I’m rarely cutting firewood - usually just felling trees to create habitat or bedding areas for deer on my property - I only fill up my chainsaw 5 - 10 times a year…it’s rare for me to cut more then 1-2 tanks in a day also, as I get tired quick and feel that’s when ‘accidents’ happen, especially in the Summer. The heat & exhaustion from cutting in all of the Protective gear I wear (full wrap chaps, shirt, helmet/face guard) — after 1-2 tanks I usually quit for the day or take a very long break…before I saw a leg off ! I’ve cut into my chaps - twice ! Once was carelessness but the other was due to fatigue. Both times were during my first two years doing some timber work on my property Felling trees for habitat improvement —- I thought I was “getting good” with a chainsaw and started moving around faster. Well, I’m Not “good” - just OK and Not a Lumberjack. Now, I’m back to being very carefull, wear ALL the protective equipment ALL the time - no matter how hot. Haven’t had any close calls in 10 years and it’s not because my skill has improved - my “judgement” is Better. Everytime I fell a Tree and it drops Exactly where I planned I think “I’m pretty good” but then on the 11th tree it misses the mark (slightly or by a lot) and I realize I’m NOT a Lumberjack !

 

[mdwest]

@Tubby’s Canteen since a lot of my “Stihl” brand Bar Oil ends up dripping out into my chainsaw case —- maybe I should try a bargain brand too? I do use their Platinum synthetic oil to mix with the gas, they double the warranty if you do and I guess I also fell for the “marketing”. Since I’m rarely cutting firewood - usually just felling trees to create habitat or bedding areas for deer on my property - I only fill up my chainsaw 5 - 10 times a year…it’s rare for me to cut more then 1-2 tanks in a day also, as I get tired quick and feel that’s when ‘accidents’ happen, especially in the Summer. The heat & exhaustion from cutting in all of the Protective gear I wear (full wrap chaps, shirt, helmet/face guard) — after 1-2 tanks I usually quit for the day or take a very long break…before I saw a leg off ! I’ve cut into my chaps - twice ! Once was carelessness but the other was due to fatigue. Both times were during my first two years doing some timber work on my property Felling trees for habitat improvement —- I thought I was “getting good” with a chainsaw and started moving around faster. Well, I’m Not “good” - just OK and Not a Lumberjack. Now, I’m back to being very carefull, wear ALL the protective equipment ALL the time - no matter how hot. Haven’t had any close calls in 10 years and it’s not because my skill has improved - my “judgement” is Better. Everytime I fell a Tree and it drops Exactly where I planned I think “I’m pretty good” but then on the 11th tree it misses the mark (slightly or by a lot) and I realize I’m NOT a Lumberjack !

I’m in the same boat… I maybe drop 1-2 “big” trees a year and another 10-20 small to medium sized trees… just getting firewood, improving shooting lanes, improving habitat, etc.. I do just enough to maintain proficiency.. but not nearly enough to make me actually good with a chainsaw… I rarely run more than two tanks a session… especially when I’m running the MS291…

 

[Tubby’s Canteen]

Most days the hired man and I go through two gallons of saw gas so I’m in a totally different boat than you gentleman. Run two chainsaws apiece in the summer time some one can cool off between tanks.

 

[HankBuck]

Most days the hired man and I go through two gallons of saw gas so I’m in a totally different boat than you gentleman. Run two chainsaws apiece in the summer time some one can cool off between tanks.

@Tubby’s Canteen for me to go thru 2 gallons of gas in a day with my chainsaw - I’d have to spill 1 1/2 gallons on the ground.

 

[ZG47]

@Tubby’s Canteen since a lot of my “Stihl” brand Bar Oil ends up dripping out into my chainsaw case —- maybe I should try a bargain brand too? I do use their Platinum synthetic oil to mix with the gas, they double the warranty if you do and I guess I also fell for the “marketing”. Since I’m rarely cutting firewood - usually just felling trees to create habitat or bedding areas for deer on my property - I only fill up my chainsaw 5 - 10 times a year…it’s rare for me to cut more then 1-2 tanks in a day also, as I get tired quick and feel that’s when ‘accidents’ happen, especially in the Summer. The heat & exhaustion from cutting in all of the Protective gear I wear (full wrap chaps, shirt, helmet/face guard) — after 1-2 tanks I usually quit for the day or take a very long break…before I saw a leg off ! I’ve cut into my chaps - twice ! Once was carelessness but the other was due to fatigue. Both times were during my first two years doing some timber work on my property Felling trees for habitat improvement —- I thought I was “getting good” with a chainsaw and started moving around faster. Well, I’m Not “good” - just OK and Not a Lumberjack. Now, I’m back to being very carefull, wear ALL the protective equipment ALL the time - no matter how hot. Haven’t had any close calls in 10 years and it’s not because my skill has improved - my “judgement” is Better. Everytime I fell a Tree and it drops Exactly where I planned I think “I’m pretty good” but then on the 11th tree it misses the mark (slightly or by a lot) and I realize I’m NOT a Lumberjack !

@HankBuck I wear chainsaw trousers when using a chainsaw, etcetera. They are cooler to work in and allow a greater range of movement than chaps. Standard weight NOT summer weight. It is important, also, to perform a range of stretches, especially upper body, when you are cutting/pruning a number of trees. You minimise stiffness, pain and distraction when your body is warmed up and you periodically perform a range of stretches. It also gives you time to look around and reassess your cutting plan for the day or week. Take care and have a good weekend.

 

[Rifleman97]

@Tubby’s Canteen since a lot of my “Stihl” brand Bar Oil ends up dripping out into my chainsaw case —- maybe I should try a bargain brand too? I do use their Platinum synthetic oil to mix with the gas, they double the warranty if you do and I guess I also fell for the “marketing”. Since I’m rarely cutting firewood - usually just felling trees to create habitat or bedding areas for deer on my property - I only fill up my chainsaw 5 - 10 times a year…it’s rare for me to cut more then 1-2 tanks in a day also, as I get tired quick and feel that’s when ‘accidents’ happen, especially in the Summer. The heat & exhaustion from cutting in all of the Protective gear I wear (full wrap chaps, shirt, helmet/face guard) — after 1-2 tanks I usually quit for the day or take a very long break…before I saw a leg off ! I’ve cut into my chaps - twice ! Once was carelessness but the other was due to fatigue. Both times were during my first two years doing some timber work on my property Felling trees for habitat improvement —- I thought I was “getting good” with a chainsaw and started moving around faster. Well, I’m Not “good” - just OK and Not a Lumberjack. Now, I’m back to being very carefull, wear ALL the protective equipment ALL the time - no matter how hot. Haven’t had any close calls in 10 years and it’s not because my skill has improved - my “judgement” is Better. Everytime I fell a Tree and it drops Exactly where I planned I think “I’m pretty good” but then on the 11th tree it misses the mark (slightly or by a lot) and I realize I’m NOT a Lumberjack !

Always run stihl oil and gas mix UNTIL you are past the warranty. There’s better oils for bar and for mixing. I like harvest king bar oil and Red Armor for mix. I forget who it was but someone did a scientific test on the various 2 stroke oils and red armor came out on top, I switched then and I gotta admit the gas smells better than when I used stihl oil. There’s also an oil that you can mix 100:1 with no issues and it even was close to tying with Red Armor. I tried that for a bit, mixed at 80:1, and it worked good, but it’s not available locally and I hate ordering online. So I stuck with Red Armor since I can get it locally.

Warranty for modern stihl saws is 50:1. I run that until the warranty is up then I switch to 40:1 and calibrate the saw to that mix. More isn’t always better, but when I asked the engineers at stihl they said that 50:1 is what it took to meet emissions, and 40-44:1 is the more ideal spot for engine wear over time.

 

[Tubby’s Canteen]

Always run stihl oil and gas mix UNTIL you are past the warranty. There’s better oils for bar and for mixing. I like harvest king bar oil and Red Armor for mix. I forget who it was but someone did a scientific test on the various 2 stroke oils and red armor came out on top, I switched then and I gotta admit the gas smells better than when I used stihl oil. There’s also an oil that you can mix 100:1 with no issues and it even was close to tying with Red Armor. I tried that for a bit, mixed at 80:1, and it worked good, but it’s not available locally and I hate ordering online. So I stuck with Red Armor since I can get it locally.

Warranty for modern stihl saws is 50:1. I run that until the warranty is up then I switch to 40:1 and calibrate the saw to that mix. More isn’t always better, but when I asked the engineers at stihl they said that 50:1 is what it took to meet emissions, and 40-44:1 is the more ideal spot for engine wear over time.

We run it down as rich as 32:1 in the spring to make them smoke and keep the black flys at bay, hard on plugs though

 

[Rifleman97]

We run it down as rich as 32:1 in the spring to make them smoke and keep the black flys at bay, hard on plugs though

Yeah I used to run 24:1 in a saw that had some nasty scratches on the cylinder. The saw wouldn’t start at 40:1, ran poorly at 32:1, but at 24:1 it ran fine, just a lot of smoke and dirty plugs. That was my old O28, ran it as long as I could. I could replace the whole top end but the cost of doing so is better spent on a newer saw. I still have it in case I ever get spare funds though, since it was my dads favorite saw and the first one I ever used.

 

[Tubby’s Canteen]

Yeah I used to run 24:1 in a saw that had some nasty scratches on the cylinder. The saw wouldn’t start at 40:1, ran poorly at 32:1, but at 24:1 it ran fine, just a lot of smoke and dirty plugs. That was my old O28, ran it as long as I could. I could replace the whole top end but the cost of doing so is better spent on a newer saw. I still have it in case I ever get spare funds though, since it was my dads favorite saw and the first one I ever used.

I’ll look in my parts hoard I’ve got 026 parts for sure but there could be some 028 parts as well , father bought every junk saw he could and sold parts so even though we didn’t run stihls much there is still a good supply of parts kickin around.

 

[Wyatt Smith]

I run 37:1 in my saws. That’s three quarts of gas to a standard 1 gallon 50:1 bottle. I’ve always read that the Husqvarna 372 bottom ends liked more oil than 50:1.
It doesn’t seem to smoke anymore when hot and the 046 Stihl likes it just as well.
Our modern two stroke oil is so much better than the 30w non detergent our grandpas ran at 16:1.
I run the Echo 2 stroke oil, mainly do to availability and the fact I believe it’s better than the Stihl synthetic.

 

[Rifleman97]

I’ll look in my parts hoard I’ve got 026 parts for sure but there could be some 028 parts as well , father bought every junk saw he could and sold parts so even though we didn’t run stihls much there is still a good supply of parts kickin around.

If you’ve got an O28 Wood Boss (slightly bigger CC than the regular O28 if you don’t know the difference) cylinder that’s not scratched to hell I’d be interested

 

[HankBuck]

@HankBuck I wear chainsaw trousers when using a chainsaw, etcetera. They are cooler to work in and allow a greater range of movement than chaps. Standard weight NOT summer weight. It is important, also, to perform a range of stretches, especially upper body, when you are cutting/pruning a number of trees. You minimise stiffness, pain and distraction when your body is warmed up and you periodically perform a range of stretches. It also gives you time to look around and reassess your cutting plan for the day or week. Take care and have a good weekend.

@ZG47 - I’ve got to look into chainsaw “Trousers” (pants) if they are cooler because anytime I’m chainsawing in temps are over 60F degrees I am “boiling” wearing Chaps. When it’s 70-80F (frequent where I live) I can’t cut more then 20-30 minutes without sweating buckets and needing a break —- and drink a pint of water before resuming. After an hour or so of this — I quit before an “accident” happens.