Antler knife handle?

[fourfive8]

Got it! Those touches are classy and really easy to do with a lathe.

 

[WebleyGreene455]

Got it! Those touches are classy and really easy to do with a lathe.

I personally would be exceptionally cautious about doing anything like that myself on a $3.5K rifle... but I can always ask the guy I'm gonna order through if he has a suggestion. Shiloh might even do it.

Back to the knife, though, I hadn't really considered what time period the blade fits into. As part of an ensemble of guns and leather, I want it to fit into the 1880s through maybe the 1920s. Mix of the height of the Old West and the turn-of-the-century/post-WWI exploration all over Africa and the Americas. A lot of the hunters and explorers (and one notable US Army officer) of the period were still packing such things, so I've no issue with joining them in the style.

 

[fourfive8]

Here's a pretty good book showing a cross section of designs within the time frame of interest which would also include Australia. The blending of styles is common among the examples. Ken Burton does a pretty good job of providing an overview.

I placed a couple of examples on the book covering the period of interest. The top knife is a Nowill and Sons, Sheffield, ca 1855. The bottom is a Wostenholm, Sheffield, ca 1895-1900.

 

[WebleyGreene455]

Here's a pretty good book showing a cross section of designs within the time frame of interest which would also include Australia. The blending of styles is common among the examples. Ken Burton does a pretty good job of providing an overview.

I placed a couple of examples on the book covering the period of interest. The top knife is a Nowill and Sons, Sheffield, ca 1855. The bottom is a Wostenholm, Sheffield, ca 1895-1900.

View attachment 422286

Man why are all the good books out of print...

 

[freefall]

Because very few people read books anymore.

 

[WebleyGreene455]

@Von Gruff When drilling the handle for a knife like this, do I want to drill a round hole with the same diameter as the tang width, or do I want to try and make a tighter-fitting rectangular hole with a couple of drill-throughs about the same thickness as the tang?

 

[freefall]

Personally, I drill a hole a bit bigger than the widest dimension of the tang, then use a smaller bit and make a few offshoots for the epoxy to spread into and hold, like roots.
I realize I'm not von Gruff, but I have made a few knives.

 

[freefall]

I also like to notch the tang with the edge of a belt or a dremel so the epoxy has some texture to grab there.

 

[nztimb]

@Von Gruff When drilling the handle for a knife like this, do I want to drill a round hole with the same diameter as the tang width, or do I want to try and make a tighter-fitting rectangular hole with a couple of drill-throughs about the same thickness as the tang?

I drill a hole with diameter of the tang thickness but if there is more than two diameters wide I drill a pair of holes and have a piece of commercial hacksaw blade set into a handle as a broaching tool to clean out the web between the holes or conversly open up the single hole to make a snug fitting for the tang, As @freefall says notch the tang to give the epoxy a gripping area and it should all make a nice tight hold on the tang.
Make sure to temper the pice of commercial hacksaw blade (@450*f as it will break quite easily if the apprentice is a bit rough with the broaching

 

[WebleyGreene455]

I drill a hole with diameter of the tang thickness but if there is more than two diameters wide I drill a pair of holes and have a piece of commercial hacksaw blade set into a handle as a broaching tool to clean out the web between the holes or conversly open up the single hole to make a snug fitting for the tang, As @freefall says notch the tang to give the epoxy a gripping area and it should all make a nice tight hold on the tang.
Make sure to temper the pice of commercial hacksaw blade (@450*f as it will break quite easily if the apprentice is a bit rough with the broaching
View attachment 425784

Right on. I think for this highly experimental attempt I've got it figured out. Working with epoxy (which I've never done before) concerns me a bit more than the rest of it, lol.

 

[nztimb]

Right on. I think for this highly experimental attempt I've got it figured out. Working with epoxy (which I've never done before) concerns me a bit more than the rest of it, lol.

I use West Systems slow set (24hr) epoxy and with the 24 hr type you have a good 20 minutes to assemble so plenty of time. The slow set is stronger than any of the 5 minute types. Clean up with acetone on all parts before assembly and after clamping together. check again after about a 1/2 hr as there is often a slow squeeze out. I keep a piece of antler tip ground to a chisel tip to scrape off any that is starting to set up as the antler will not mark the finished knife blade.