Spitzoppe Community Campsite
In the western reaches of the Erongo Region, a flat expanse of semi-desert savannah extends northwards, where the otherwise unbroken horizon is crowned by the unmistakable craggyshaped domes of the Spitzkoppe. Spitzkoppe, a granite inselberg often nicknamed the “Matterhorn of Namibia” for its...
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I can still recall the first time I saw the Spitzkoppe. I was in my teens, travelling with my family on vacation to one of Namibia’s most iconic geological formations. I had slept through much of the six-hour drive, and when I finally woke up – still groggy and heavy with sleep – evening was just setting in. As we circled around looking for a spot to pitch our tent, I peered out of the car window. It felt like I had been unknowingly airlifted and landed on an entirely different planet. The inky night sky was pierced with a million glittering, luminous stars. Shadowy, sharp massifs towered above us; even the moon seemed oddly dwarfed by these mysterious peaks of protruding rock. The place felt both prehistoric and cosmic. That otherworldly sense has never quite faded, even though I have since returned to Spitzkoppe countless times as an adult.
WHERE GIANTS ROAM
In the western reaches of the Erongo Region, a flat expanse of semi-desert savannah extends northwards, where the otherwise unbroken horizon is crowned by the unmistakable craggy-shaped domes of the Spitzkoppe. Spitzkoppe, a granite inselberg often nicknamed the “Matterhorn of Namibia” for its pointed, jagged profile, stretches 600 to 700 metres above the Namib plains. Forged by time from the eroded remnants of an ancient subterranean mass of solidified lava – much like the Brandberg and Erongo mountains – it is estimated to be more than 120 million years old. The tallest of its many outcrops stands at 1,728 metres above sea level.Leaving Windhoek and its concrete cityscapes behind, we travel towards the north-central part of the country, known as Damaraland. The landscape, ringed by the Erongo mountains, is populated with crooked yet surprisingly tall termite hills rising from the earth. Scattered among them stands the familiar camelthorn tree, its branches buoyant and sunny with yellow blossoms from the recent rains. Located roughly 280 kilometres from Windhoek – merely a three-hour drive from the capital – Spitzkoppe is reached via the B2 highway, with the small town of Usakos along the way. I may be a little partial here, but for the intrepid, self-sufficient traveller, few experiences rival camping at Spitzkoppe. Among the available accommodation options, Spitzkoppe Community Campsite, though the most basic when compared to the nearby chalets and the luxurious Spitzkoppen Lodge, offers the unique allure of simplicity and solitude.
WHAT TO KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
This camping alternative is not only far more affordable for the cash-strapped backpacker, but also offers nofrills, easily accessible logistics. Travelling mostly on tarred roads, a stretch of well-maintained gravel takes you directly to the campsite’s reception. Spitzkoppe Community Campsite offers 31 designated camping spots spread across the park. Some sites are completely secluded, while others are grouped in clusters of two or three. Camping here is delightfully unstructured: it’s first-come, first-served, but there is rarely a frantic sprint of competitive campers scrambling for a spot. There always seems to be enough space to go around! For added privacy, some sites are more tucked away, with rugged rock overhangs providing welcome shade before the morning sun starts to turn.The campsites are minimally equipped, with no running water or electricity. There are no flushing toilets at the individual sites; instead, pit latrines (also referred to as “long drops”) are conveniently located at various camping spots, along with waste bins and fireplaces. For this reason, it is strongly recommended to stock up on all essentials before heading out to Spitzkoppe, especially water for drinking, washing or cooking. Firewood is available for purchase at reception. Upon check-in, you’ll receive a simple navigational map of the campsite area. Guests can prebook meals at a small restaurant and bar located at reception, where you’ll also find hot showers and flushing toilets.
Still, I would daringly propose taking full advantage of camping wild and temporarily trade cushioned comfort for the sake of an unadulterated, immersive adventure. With its raw, rural setting, this camping option invites you to unplug, leave your devices behind, and truly disconnect from the digital white noise in our lives.
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